The famous Mexican Nobel Prize-winning writer and poet Octavio Paz once said that the Mexican people go to church to celebrate life and to the bullfights to celebrate death. What must he have thought of Sanmiguelada? Photo courtesy of http://www.sanmiguel-de-allende.com

Dear International Living Reader,

The second time we ever set foot in San Miguel de Allende–where we now live–was on a particularly lively weekend in September, a few years ago. I must admit that I am vastly understating the term "particularly lively."

We had been warned by friends that this was not a good time to visit. But…we thought…how bad could it be? It sounded like fun, in fact, to be in Mexico during one of the country’s most outrageous spectacles…rivaling Spring Break on the U.S. coasts, Mardi Gras in New Orleans, and one particularly similar event held annually in the Basque Country of northern Spain.

Yes, it was the weekend of Sanmiguelada–the Mexican version of the running of the bulls in Pamplona. And this coming Saturday marks the 22nd year the event has been held here, on the weekend falling between the celebration of Mexico’s Independence Day (Sept. 16–see "Dia de la Independencia– Viva México") and the festival for the city’s patron saint, San Miguel el Arcángel (Sept. 29).

It all starts on Friday evening, when upward of 20,000 visitors pour in from all parts of Mexico to participate in the festivities. Many of them are from Mexico City; nearly all of them are young people. (Cavorting with angry bulls, after all, is not often considered sport for those of us of a "mature" age.) Through the night, the bars, restaurants, disco, and cantinas are elbow to elbow with revelers who toast their coming prowess. Or, perhaps, they’re drinking for courage.

It’s easy to understand, then, that the next morning…when the event actually starts…many of the participants are either hungover or still drunk. To lessen the effect, the municipality now imposes a ban on alcohol sales the morning of and during the event…except for establishments where food is served.

By 9 a.m., el Jardin (San Miguel’s central plaza) begins to fill with people. Almost everyone is bedecked in a white shirt and red bandana. Many (especially the women) also sport red cowboy hats. The streets around the Jardin are blocked off with heavy metal barricades, inside of which a dozen or more bulls will be let loose.

Throughout the morning, the Centro area of San Miguel becomes more and more crowded, with people jockeying for a prime spot from which to watch. Those restaurants and bars lucky enough to have a vantage point above the streets charge admissions of up to $150 per person to see the event from their more comfortable surroundings.

At noon, the bulls–trucked in from ranches that specialize in the breeding of bulls for bull fights–are ejected from the panel trucks and into the streets of San Miguel. Young men…and even a few young women…hop over the barricades to taunt, try to grab the horns of, and run from the bulls. The "brave chicos" run and the bulls chase after whichever one of them they see first. The bulls are not at all tame, and not at all happy to be prancing on cobblestones to the jeers of thousands of onlookers.

Mexican national television broadcasts the event live…and in my opinion, that’s the best way to take part in this event. After you’ve watched the bulls grow angrier and become more fatigued…and after you’ve seen more than a few young people gored or tossed through the air like rag dolls…the thrill begins to ebb. Every year there are hundreds of injuries, and—unfortunately—deaths are not unusual.

In truth, the running of the bulls is not what Sanmiguelada is about as much as it is about drinking and partying and preening. It’s a boost for the economy of San Miguel, for sure…and a boost for nearby communities as well, since many of us who live here head for those tranquil havens during the weekend of Sanmiguelada. On Sunday, as we drive back into San Miguel, we pass the mass exodus of young people, still wearing their red hats and bandanas and now with red eyes to match. Some depart nursing bruises and broken bones; nearly all of them leave nursing giant hangovers.

Suzan Haskins
For International Living in Mexico

P.S. We’re busy preparing for our next Live and Invest in Mexico seminar, to be held in Puerto Vallarta, Nov. 13-15. We’ve got a great line-up of knowledgeable experts who will tell you everything you need to know about living or buying property in Mexico. And we’re going to have a lot of fun, too. No bull. Find out more here.