Place Jacques-Cartier, Montreal, Quebec. Photo courtesy of © Tourisme Montréal, Stéphan Poulin

Dear International Living Reader,

It’s 11 degrees Fahrenheit. The wind is whipping blade-like off the St. Lawrence River. Locals, shoulders hunched into the blow, keep warm under fur trapper hats and long, black wool overcoats. On snow-dusted cobblestone streets, against a backdrop of 18th-century stone buildings with ceiling-high windows and gargoyled porticos, we might as well be in Europe–in a Victor Hugo novel.

You could argue Montreal wasn’t the most prudent choice in a two-night getaway in March. But it turns out the cold lingers only on the streets. In the candle-lit cafes, the hearth-toasted restaurants, the steamy-windowed coffee shops, the welcome–always offered in both French and English–is unfailingly warm.

In winter, Montreal is all about ducking into tidy retreats where you can thaw your ears and eat well. We’ve done both with grand success.

Our hotel, the 19th-century Auberge du Vieux-Port sits at the river’s edge in the city’s Old Quarter. High wood-beamed ceilings, brick walls, polished wood floors, heavy paisley linens, and feather-stuffed duvets. From the window seat in our fourth-story room we have a view down to the gently winding Rue St. Paul, lined with boutiques and galleries and restaurants. Straight across lies a scape of uneven, Paris-like rooftops and the old Palais de Justice a block away, with Montreal’s white and red flag whipping on a pole.

With just 27 rooms, each a bit different, the place feels intimate. We’re treated to soft terry robes, an umbrella should we need it, a newspaper daily, free hi-speed wireless internet access, a top-flight stereo with CD player (and CD’s available for borrowing from the front desk). I should say, the front desk is just that–a heavy wooden desk. The lobby is really a living room with overstuffed couches, oriental rugs, complimentary coffee or tea, local newspapers and magazines for the taking. At the far end sits Marie or David, always pleasant and ready to pull out menus from local restaurants or suggest a route to explore nearby. Also available for long- or short-term rental through the Auberge are lofts with full kitchens–perfect for a family.

Breakfast is included here–a filling affair that’s sort of half-French (as in pain au chocolat, croissants, fresh fruit, yogurt) and half-North American hearty (as in they’ll also cook you French toast or omelets served with toast, bacon, and potatoes). From 5 p.m. to 6 p.m. each evening guests are invited to a complimentary wine and cheese cocktail. Wholly satisfactory. And a good value, too. With the exchange rate at US $.75 to C$1, we’re spending just US$119 a night for a room we’d likely pay nearly twice that for in France.

Jennifer Stevens
Contributing Editor, International Living

P.S. As non-Canadians, we’re entitled to a rebate on the 7% federal tax we pay on our room — ours will come to about C$25. These sorts of programs are available all over, I know. But I, for one, rarely have the patience to stand in line to collect. In Canada it’s easy. Ask your hotel for the rebate form, fill it out, and send it in.

Editor’s note: You can meet Jennifer in person — along with our roving editor Steenie Harvey, the director of our Paris office, Adrian Leeds, and a whole host of well-known guest speakers — when they gather in Paris this May for our next live Travel Writing Workshop. Reserve your seat before April 15, and you can save with the Early Sign Up Discount. For more details visit: http://www.thetravelwriterslife.com/workshop/il5/