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Medieval magic meets mud treatments, casinos, and WiFi in the Land of the Singing Revolution

US$1 equals 12.95 Estonian kroon Drab Eastern Europe? Think again. Estonia refutes any notion that a former Soviet Socialist Republic must be ineffably dreary. I’m in Parnu, on Estonia’s southwest coast, and its wooden villas are delightful. Ticking off the pastel colors–powder blue, old gold, blush pink, sage green–you feel like you’ve stumbled into a …

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