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Paris’ Studio 28

Where in Paris can you find a reasonably priced champagne bar, quiet garden terrasse, light fittings by Jean Cocteau, and see the best films? Not in the touristy Quartier Latin, that’s for sure, but rather in the 18th arrondissement at Studio 28.

An independent cinema established in 1928, Studio 28 shows the latest films as well as the occasional art movie, introduced at the weekend by the owner himself, Alain Roulleau. The cosseted feel of the screen along with personal touches added by M. Roulleau, and an occasional singer-songwriter performance in front of a (captive) audience, have combined to create a loyal following of regulars.

The small group of regulars here includes Francophile American residents as well as immaculately made-up bourgeoises of Montmartre. On my last visit, I went for the avant-première of the latest Borat comedy. As I waited for the previous film to end I sipped a coupe of champagne in the little bar, and was given a Borat moustache, which I promptly stuck on–as did a couple of smartly dressed women in fur coats, up for a laugh. The atmosphere was jolly as more Borat fans joined us, their moustaches firmly in place, and the film was packed out.

The screen is small and the seating capacity is only 170, but the room, decorated by Jean Cocteau, is unique. The quirky light fixtures look not unlike cute mushrooms and pixie hats, but doubtless the great artist had other ideas. He became one of the cinema’s sponsors in the 1950s and helped promote the exhibitions, concerts, and debates that have always been a feature here.

Studio 28
10, rue Tholoze, 18th arrondissement
Metr Blanche or Abbesses
The program changes every week, and 10 films are usually screened.
Tickets: 7 euro, but a loyalty card gives an even better price.

Accomodation in Paris
Experience the City of Light as a true Parisian. Stay in a renovated 17th-century pied-à-terre with all amenities, minutes from the Seine and Louvre in one of Paris’ most charming neighborhoods. Close to art galleries, cafés, and restaurants-yet removed from tourist hordes. Weekly/monthly rental options, from 185 euros per night. Sleeps four. E-mail: France@InternationalLiving.com for availability.