For a quintessential rural Catalan town, you can’t get much better than Castelló d’Empúries, with the magnificent 13th-century Santa María cathedral at its hub. A sleepy rural market town with church spires, leafy squares, and welcoming cafés, it’s a real hidden gem. It lies just a stone’s throw from the Gulf of Roses and provides the perfect contrast to the dramatic beauty of the nearby coast and accompanying crowds. The town is charming in a genteel crumbling way, with parts of the original city walls still intact, and lots of tiny alleyways leading down to a gentle river walk-perfect for a timeless wander.
The small bustling squares, bars and restaurants, and the town’s proximity to the Parc Natural dels Auguamolls de l’Empordà make it a great place to stay for walkers or cyclists.
I can recommended two hotels: Hotel Canet ( tel. +34-972-25-03-40; website: www.hotelcanet.com ) is that rare creature, a budget hotel with real style. Crisp cotton sheets in the small but restful rooms with tiny balconies, a buzzing café, a good value restaurant, and a stunning pool housed in the old Convent de Sant Agustì can be yours all from less than 70 euro for a double. Two minutes’ walk away in another pretty square is its upmarket sister, Hotel de la Moneda ( tel. +34-972-15-86-02; website: www.hoteldelamoneda.com ), a 17th-century mansion upgraded with flair, combining bright primary colors with calmer hues and classic modern comfort. Doubles here cost about 120 euro, and both hotels offer suites.
If you don’t want to eat in your hotel, Castelló has a surprisingly wide range of restaurants and cafés offering Catalan fare. Among the traditional dishes available, look out for rabbit grilled with rosemary or stewed with snails, sample a platter of the rich variety of fish and seafood from the nearby Gulf of Roses, or try esqueixada da bacalau, a real local specialty-ceviche of cod with fresh tomatoes, green peppers, and olive oil.
Sarfa (www.sarfa.com) is the main bus company operating in the area. Buses run reasonably frequently, even in the winter months, between Figueres and Roses, so getting there couldn’t be easier.
