Dear Europhile,

Although budget airlines are still tempting, the train is the vedette (star) in Europe this week.

The latest link in France’s high-speed TGV network is the eastern section, which was inaugurated on March 15. This brings Reims, the champagne capital, even closer to Paris (a mere 45 minutes away) and makes day-trips to Luxembourg and Strasbourg more feasible—just over two hours to both destinations, compared to nearly four hours previously.

As the green movement becomes more vocal, increasing numbers of holidaymakers in Europe are choosing to travel by train to reduce their carbon footprint. This no longer means sacrificing your time or your wallet (except, unfortunately, in the U.K.), and the French government at least is promoting its railways as a cheaper and more efficient way of getting from A to B. Some hidden corners still remain more difficult to reach, however. From Paris, you can enjoy a fast, comfortable rail journey to Barcelona and Madrid in Spain. But Taunton, on the edge of the wilds of Exmoor in the U.K., remains more than five hours away, even using Eurostar for part of the journey.

Why would you want to get to Taunton? Read on…

Bests,

Leigh Fergus
Editor, The European
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Eat your way through…Madrid

by Teba Orueta

With its many culinary tourist traps and overpriced, over-rated restaurants, finding good food, like a local mamá would make, can be a challenge in Madrid. As with all good things in life, we recommend that you have the best or don’t bother at all. Here’s a quick guide to tasting some of the best of the capital’s cuisine.
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There are few things more disappointing when you’re traveling than a bad meal. It feels like a complete waste of your time and money. You just know that within a few blocks of where you ended up, there’s probably a fabulous spot that only the locals know about…a place that you would have talked about for years to come…told all your friends about…and no one else. Finally, there’s a reliable resource for finding the gastronomic gems on every shore…Read more.

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Finest cured ham
Be sure to order jamon ibérico de bellota, ham from a special Iberian breed of acorn-fed pigs. To try before you buy, head to La Garriga, a delicatessen serving tasty samples of the cold meat in a bocadillo (Spanish sandwich). This spot will slice and air-tight seal small packs of your favorite cuts. If you have bought or been given an entire leg of this jamón and don’t know what to do with it, the staff will turn it into a stash of vacuum-packed ham for you to give as an edible gift.
La Garriga,Paseo de la Castellana, 153; tel. +34 91570-0139

Tastiest tapas
For tasty snacks in an historic setting, visit Madrid’s oldest tavern, Taberna de Antonio Sanchez, tucked away in one of the city´s oldest neighborhoods. Sampling their morcilla (blood & rice sausage), vino de consagración (sweet wine made for religious ceremonies), and torrijas (an Easter dessert reminiscent of French toast) is a must when visiting Madrid. Come here for the full tapas as the à la carte dining is not as good.
Taberna de Antonio Sanchez,Calle Mesón de Paredes, 13; tel. +34 91539-7826

Best croquettes
Most Madrileños are on an eternal quest for the best place to eat
croquetas, another tapas staple (Spanish croquettes are usually made with ham or fish). My personal favorite is El Mollete, where I also order the spring onion scrambled eggs for the perfect tapas experience.
El Mollete,Calle de la Bola, 8.

Healthiest lunch
In the summer months you might want to have something lighter. If you find yourself visiting the Prado or Thyssen museums, or are simply strolling through the Puerta del Sol, a five-minute walk will bring you to the traditional Casa Manolo, one of Madrid’s iconic restaurant-cafés with some of the best Spanish home-cooked dishes—including the best bowl of fresh gazpacho around. Aside from being refreshing in the city’s heat, this cold red soup is packed with vitamins and flavor (see the recipe, right).
Casa Manolo,Calle Jovellanos, 7;tel. +34 91521-4516

Best hangover cure
Casa Lucio is not too far down the main road in this neighborhood. The star dish here is huevos estrellados (“shattered” eggs), a deliciously simple dish made of fried eggs and French fries. Come here for a good old hangover cure or make it a point to dine—their tenderloin breaded steak is highly recommended.
Casa Lucio,Calle de la Cava Baja, 35;tel. +34 91365-8217

Heartiest stew
If you’re seriously hungry, cocido is to Madrid what Peking Duck is to Beijing––and a tasty version of this hearty stew is served year-round down this same road at La Bola restaurant. A thick meal of chickpeas, black pudding, and cabbage cooked in a broth, cocido is sometimes cooked with chicken or pork. This is a must-try dish, even if it is 104°F outside. Restaurante La Bola, Calle de la Bola, 5; tel. +34 91547-6930

Best sugar fix
For something sugary to finish with, the only place outside my mother’s kitchen that serves a perfect bowl of arroz con leche (Spanish rice pudding) is Alkalde. This famous Basque restaurant’s entire menu is delicious but can be pricey. If all you want is a sweet fix, however, you need look no further.
Alcalde,Calle de Jorge Juan, 10; tel. +34 91576-3359

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What it costs to live in…Barcelona

by Sylvia Keller

In this occasional column, we report on the costs incurred to you, should you make the move to Europe. This week, we visit Barcelona, Spain, for the low down on some general items you’ll be paying for.

The cost of living in Barcelona is on a par with Madrid and higher than in rural villages or other coastal towns. As Barcelona consolidates its position as a major economic power, strategically close to the French border, the cost of real estate is as high as in the capital.

Rental of a modestly furnished, 1,000-square-foot apartment in a central area such as Ramblas or Gracia, will cost about 1,300 euros per month. For a similar size home, with a view of the Mediterranean, in the prestigious Diagonal Mar quarter of the city, expect to pay between 2,000 and 3,000 euros per month. In contrast, the same view can cost from 400 to 650 euros per month in many coastal towns of the Costa Blanca, Costa de Azahares, or Costa del Sol.

The nationwide Mercadona or Dani chains are the cheapest supermarkets (compared to Carrefour and Hipercor), and the outdoor fresh produce local markets are even cheaper for food. In general, local produce in season will cost less than imported goods; seafood is cheaper on the coast than inland; and beef and pork are 20% more expensive than in inland villages. The following are examples of prices in a medium-range supermarket in Barcelona:

A loaf of sliced white bread 2.05 euro
A dozen eggs 0.95 euro
1 liter milk 0.80 euro
Pack of butter (250g) 1.10 euro
Fresh chicken per kilo 2.60 euro
Tomatoes in summer 0.80 euro
Bottle of local white wine 3 euro
Other monthly costs for running an apartment for two people:

Gas for heating and a stove 40 euro
Electricity 40 euro (rising by 30% in summer for air conditioning)
Monthly telephone rental fee 25 euro + cost of calls
1 liter unleaded gas super 97 0.99 euro (diesel is 0.88)
Movie ticket 6 euro
Lunch for two with wine 15 euro
Coffee with milk 1 euro
Car insurance (small family vehicle) 15 euro (147 euro for a top-range Mercedes or BMW 7)

Car insurance in Spain is the least expensive of the European Union. Insurance is based on age, driving record, and—most important—where you live: Barcelona, Madrid, and the larger cities are on average 10% to 18% more expensive per year than the rest of the country.

Prices given are those recorded as of January 1, 2007. $1.31 equals 1 euro
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Porlock Weir: A tale of lepers, smugglers, and a diminutive church

by Rachel Webb

Porlock Weir, a tiny medieval harbor in west Dorset, England’s southwest, with three shops, a 16th-century coaching inn, and a busy hotel, is the end of my road.

The atmosphere is romantic and wild, and my imagination is fuelled by the tide crashing onto the shingles—or is it the heady local “scrumpy” (alcoholic cider) from the thatched Ship Inn? Smugglers and damsels in distress, shipwrecks and booty are all part of Porlock’s ragged history, inspiring writers like Daphne du Maurier, and three miles outside the village lies a further intriguing symbol of its past.

From the harbor, follow a steady climbing path among age-old trees and clinging dampness, and you’ll come to Culbone church, St. Beuno’s. This is a typical English church in all respects but one: size—it measures less than 40 feet long.

Monks have reportedly occupied the original site of this church since 430 A.D, with the first church being built around 635 A.D. In 1544, the church authorities decided to use Culbone as a site for lepers, and around 45 men, women, and children were sent here.

They received no assistance during their isolation—the priest said to have lived in the church at that time devoted himself solely to prayer. Starting out with seed but no tools, the lepers learned to forage, farm, and make charcoal to survive. A tiny “leper–window” in the north wall of the church allowed them to follow mass services, but, by 1622, with the death of the last leper, the community was no more, and the area remained uninhabited for a hundred years or so.

In the early 18th century, the lepers’ dwellings were put to a new use by smugglers looking for shelter and storage for their loot. By the end of the 1700s, smuggling had declined and the area was again abandoned.

Accessible only by foot, the church is beautifully intact with ancient oak pews, intricate carved screen work, and oak roof beams. A new slate roof replaced the original thatch in renovations around 1768 when the priest’s hermit cell was dismantled. Occasional services are still held here with an uncomfortable seating capacity of just 30 people.

Just above the Culbone church is Ash Farm, now a B&B, where Coleridge wrote his opium-induced Kubla Khan lines. When interrupted by “a person from Porlock,” his inspiration left him, and he abandoned the poem. For such a tiny end-of-the-road place, Porlock Weir has plenty to offer the curious traveler.

Traveling to Porlock
The nearest airports are Bristol or Exeter.
The nearest main town and railway station is Taunton.
For accommodation and further information, go to http://www.porlock.co.uk

For property sales, go to http://www.chaninandthomas.co.uk

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Best spots in the Maltese vacation property market

by Vanessa Lupi

It’s not only the sun and the crystal-clear sea that attracts thousands of visitors to the Maltese islands—the friendliness of the local English-speaking inhabitants, their rich history and culture, the relaxed lifestyle, and leisure facilities all contribute to Malta’s charm. With Europe’s biggest budget airline Ryanair now running daily flights between the UK and Malta, and three weekly flights to and from Pisa and Dublin, demand for vacation property—already on the increase since Malta joined the EU in 2004—looks set to boom.

Property in Malta and Gozo has always been sought after as an investment opportunity: Malta’s property has appreciated an average of 10% to 12% for the past four years. It is important, however, to choose the right place, as values vary considerably between one location and another. Properties in areas further away from the sea, or far from main tourist sites (excluding village centers where farmhouses are sought after by people wishing to retire), have not seen much growth in value, but new marina developments–– such as Portomaso, St. Angelo Mansions, and

Tigne Point––are a good place to start looking. Most of these new developments are in “Special Designated Areas” in upmarket districts, where foreigners can purchase as many units as they wish. Because they are so much in demand by both local and foreign nationals, they are constantly appreciating in value, and are popular as “buy to let” options. Rental return on the islands’ apartments is on the rise, presently at 3% to 4% every year, with higher rates commanded by apartments in the “Special Designated Areas.”

For vacation rentals, the best spots in which to buy are the harbor areas. Sliema’s seafront apartments along the promenade are popular, and the northern part of the island––namely Bugibba, St. Paul’s Bay, Qawra, and Mellieha––is much in demand with summer vacationers.

A two-bedroom apartment in one of the most sought-after areas of Sliema or St. Julians, near the seafront and close to all amenities, starts at around 146,000 euro ($193,000). For 186,350 euro ($246,110), you can find a one-bedroom apartment in the new development at Portomaso in St. Julians. Apartments in Bugibba, for example, would start at 104,822 euro ($138,600).

[Editor’s note. Vanessa Lupi works for Frank Salt Real Estate Ltd, and will be happy to help you source property on the islands. She can be contacted by phone at +356 2138-1400; e-mail: vlupi@franksalt.com.mt; website: www.franksalt.com.mt ]

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