Dear Europhile,

News that French President Sarkozy has given himself a 140% pay-rise has made many voters yearn for the old days when a president could make do on a mere 8,457 euro ($12,250) a month. Apparently this hike—bringing the head of state’s monthly earnings to 19,000 euro ($27,530)—will also replace a number of extra allowances that used to be accumulated, but still leaves France behind other countries on the leaders’ pay scale.

The Irish prime minister, Bertie Aherne, takes home a princely 25,833 euro each month, more even than George W. Bush (on the equivalent of 23,000 euro), and Gordon Brown, the British PM, with £15,583 (22, 405 euro or $32,450). The head of the Italian government, Romano Prodi, may be a little envious with his 16,371 euro paycheck, but spare a thought for the Spanish leader José-Luis Zapatero. His monthly payslip shows just 7,400 euro.

Maybe he consoles himself by basking in Spain’s endless sunshine. Read on to find out where else to catch the warmest rays this winter, and where to find Oreos in Madrid.

Bests,

Leigh Fergus
Editor, The European

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The six warmest spots in Europe right now
by Leigh Fergus

Part of Europe’s charm is the fact that, depending on where you live, you can enjoy four distinct seasons. But that doesn’t mean that you have to spend the winter shivering. Here are the best places for warm winter sunshine:

The Canary Islands
Although these seven islands catch the hot winds off the Western Sahara and Morocco, they’re part of the EU through Spain and are the warmest part of Europe throughout the year. The average annual temperature is 71.6 degrees Fahrenheit. With almost 160 miles of beaches to choose from, this is a no-brainer for sun seekers. How does 78 degrees Fahrenheit sound for a November day, compared to 48 degrees Fahrenheit in Chicago or 42 degrees Fahrenheit in rainy Washington D.C?

Cyprus
This island, in the eastern Mediterranean, averages 3,000 hours of sunshine a year, and even in winter you can bask for six hours a day. Summer lasts until October, and it’s still warm enough to go swimming here in November. Although there’s a greater chance of rain in December and January, temperatures on the coast hover around 61-70 degrees Fahrenheit. The Republic of Cyprus is the place to go in winter if you suffer from Seasonal Affective Disorder—and there’s skiing to be had in the Troodos Mountains before you hit the beach.

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Malta
The islands of Malta and Gozo offer five to six hours of winter sunshine a day, and November temperatures approaching 70 degrees Fahrenheit. December and January are the wettest months, but there’s no big risk of rain spoiling your stay as Malta is one of the driest places in Europe. Don’t come here wanting to sit on the beaches, however—they’re mainly rocky. Come here instead for leisurely walks and the chance to live outdoors when much of the rest of Europe is stuck inside.

The Algarve, Portugal
It’s comfortable enough to have lunch outdoors on a sunny terrace in December, and while the evenings may be chilly, the bright skies should chase away any winter blues during the day. You can expect six hours a day here in the winter months with temperatures of 48-64 degrees Fahrenheit—perfect for golfing. My favorite spot here is the market town of Tavira in the eastern Algarve, where palm trees make jagged silhouettes against the cloudless blue sky, and the reflections of the colored fishing boats barely ripple on the river.

Madeira, Portugal
This tiny rugged island is off the coast of Morocco, but uses the euro and is technically part of Europe. It has a protected microclimate and it rarely dips below 60 degrees Fahrenheit during the winter. Funchal and the southern coast have the best weather, although it can be rainy. At least during the winter months you’ll get five hours of sun a day, and the big cloud phenomenon called capacete only hits Madeira in February.

Crete
This southernmost Greek island boasts 300 days of sunshine a year—at least four hours a day in winter—and the lowest temperature is a comfortable 53 degrees Fahrenheit. The warmest part of the island is the dry eastern side, and the coldest area the inland mountains. Vacation rentals are cheaper in the winter months with villa rentals starting from 80 euro ($116) for two in Avdou near Heraklion at www.crete-hotels-rooms.com for example, or apartments from 45 euro ($65) per night.

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How to escape the chaos of Chios

by Steenie Harvey

Blame the Greek weather gods, but I’ve only two nights and one full day to explore Chios. September can get windy in the North-East Aegean. Very windy. The ferry I originally expected to take from neighboring Lesbos remained anchored in the mainland port of Piraeus. Finally I arrived at 9 p.m. What with off-loading and re-boarding the ferry, Chios town more resembles Chaos town at this time of night.

Even more so than Lesbos, Chios is a working island that gets few foreign tourists. Roughly 30 miles long, it’s home to around 30,000 inhabitants. Half live in Chios town…which is equally chaotic during the day. Many roads are narrow—with crazed locals practicing for the Grand Prix circuit. You’ll probably also encounter peasants riding mules.

I decide to escape south into what’s known as the Mastichoria.

This area has 21 cobbled-street “Mastic Villages.” Used as a whitening toothpaste by Ancient Greeks, mastic is a gum from the resin of mastic trees. Southern Chios is one of the few places where the tree thrives. Mastic toothpaste is still produced and it’s also used in cosmetics, toiletries, and candies.

Two outstandingly photogenic Mastic villages are Pyrgi and Mesta. A medieval fortified settlement built around a defense tower, Pyrgi’s houses are unlike anything I’ve ever seen in Greece.
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14th-century xysta decorations
Black, brown, white. Almost all buildings are decorated with xysta–geometric motifs scraped out after plastering walls with cement and black volcanic sand. This form of adornment dates from the 14th century when Chios was under Genoese rule. Adding splashes of scarlet, strings of tomatoes ripen in the sun.

Near the church, you can sit at one of the central square’s kafenions and watch village life pass by. “Psara, psara!” calls the man selling sardines from a pick-up truck. Most elderly women wear coverall dresses reminiscent of the 1950s. Either that or black “widows’ weeds” from head to toe. It’s not just the xysta houses that make it feel like you’ve stepped back into the Greece of black-and-white photos.
Labyrinthine alleys
Mesta is even more suggestive of villagers hiding away from pirate raids. Behind fortified walls, this is a secretive world of stern gray stone, labyrinthine alleys, and arched passageways. No xysta decorations here, but it’s wildly atmospheric.

A marked path runs through the mastic groves from Mesta to Olympi village. But the prospect of a fish taverna lunch is far too strong. So I round the coast and make for Lithi.
Expect stunning Aegean views—if you dare take your eyes off the twisty road. And Lithi itself has a gorgeous little beach: soft golden sand fringed by what I guess are tamarisk trees. Warmed by the sun, the water is so shallow you can wade out for yards.

Transport
Crossing from Lesbos to Chios takes three hours and costs 12 euro with Nel Lines, reaching Chios at 9 p.m.

You’ll need wheels as public transport is extremely limited. With collision damage waiver (CDW) included, Europacar (www.europcar.co.uk) charges 44 euro ($64) for one day.

Mastic beds
There are few hotels—this is still rooms-to-let territory. If you want to overnight in the Mastic villages, the best place to find contact numbers for private individuals—telephone, not internet—is the website: www.chiosnet.gr

And board
O Mesaionas (The Middle Ages) is a nice taverna on the main village square in Mesta. Under the trees and with lots of mezes to choose from: roasted eggplant dipped in crunchy batter, feta cheese, squid…

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Where to get peanut butter in Madrid

by Teba Orueta

Don’t you hate it when you’re away from home and missing those little treats like your favorite brand of cookies, peanut butter, or special pasta sauce? With Thanksgiving coming up, it’s good to know where to source those familiar products that make this festival so special—even if they are at top-dollar prices. In Madrid, you’ll find all-American (and international) cooking ingredients, utensils, and gourmet foods in two stores:

Taste of America, a long-standing favorite in the expat community, has been around for over 15 years and recently opened a new store behind the American School of Madrid. It offers a wide selection of quality brand cooking utensils, cookbooks in English, a good range of American and British ingredients, and good old “junk food.” Party-themed candy and decorations for birthdays are on sale, as well as the best-known items for Thanksgiving, Halloween, Valentine’s day, and Easter. If you don’t have the time to go to the store in person, a website shows what’s in stock and you can order online or by phone. The staff speaks English and you’ll find fliers, adverts, and magazines or guides published for the expat community.
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Hespen & Suarez is more like the American chain Dean & DeLuca, and is an international gourmet store and catering company. It provides freshly baked bread, bagels, and muffins from dawn ’til dusk, every day of the year, and a deli counter with prepared meals. You’ll find imported wine, a variety of cooking oils, and all manner of herbs and spices, as well as catering services. The owner, Kay Hespen, is American and she set up the store and catering business with her Spanish sister-in-law just over five years ago. She also offers cooking courses and tastings.

Taste of America: Calle de Serrano 149; tel: +34 915- 62-1632, and
Av. Europa 23, Pozuelo De Alarcón; tel: +34 913-51-9656; website: www.tasteofamerica.es
Hespen y Suarez (three addresses): Calle de Barceló 15, corner Mejía Lequerica,
Calle de Príncipe de Vergara 93, corner Maria de Molina, and
Calle de Orense 22; tel: +34 902-25- 9125; website: www.hespenysuarez.com

Classifieds

To advertize your own property or services in the classifieds section of The European, email: MSavage@InternationalLiving.com.

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To advertize your own property or services in the classifieds section of The European, email: MSavage@InternationalLiving.com.

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