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Chiang Mai, Thailand: The Expats’ Retirement Dream

Chang Mai

I left the U.S. at the beginning of 2006. Before this, I had spent two years using my vacations to explore affordable countries in search of the ultimate retirement destination.

When I visited Chiang Mai, Thailand, I knew I had discovered an expat’s retirement dream. Chiang Mai is located in the north region of Thailand and is the country’s second largest city. It sits in a lush tropical valley surrounded by mountains, with the Ping River winding its way through the city. Chiang Mai is rich in history and has more than 300 Buddhist temples, some dating back 700 years. The city center is surrounded by a water-filled moat. Chiang Mai seldom gets cold enough in the winter evenings to need a jacket, and has a low crime rate. The Thais have strong family values and senior citizens are respected and held in esteem.

I live adjacent to Nimmanheamin Road, which is an upscale area located in between the old city and the University of Chiang Mai. I rent a fully furnished luxury condo for $380 a month. My apartment is on the 14th floor and features a large balcony overlooking the city. The building has two restaurants, a laundrette, mini-mart, health club, two swimming pools, and a Thai massage parlor—a two-hour Thai massage costs less than $10.

The medical care here is low-cost, convenient, and comparable to if not better than what you would receive in the U.S. There are a number of hospitals, dental clinics, and pharmacies throughout the city. I can visit a doctor for $3 at one of the medical clinics, or visit a specialist for $30 at the Chiang Mai Ram Hospital—which is a 15-minute walk from my condo. I have never had to make an appointment to see a doctor, and all the medical staff I have met are fluent in English.

Monthly costs of living in Chiang Mai
Rent: $150–1,000
Basic cable television: $6
Internet: $15
Water bill: $4
Electricity: $6–$30 (depending on the season)
Maid service: $30 (twice a week)

You will not want for anything in Chiang Mai. There are supermarkets, two large malls, and clothing boutiques all over the city, not to mention the night markets. Plus, the food choices are abundant—there is every kind of cuisine imaginable. I eat out everyday and have never tired of the culinary choices.

Dozens of restaurants are within walking distance of my condo. One of my favorite restaurants is a small, family-run Japanese restaurant, where dinner costs less than $2. Most restaurants charge from $2 to $6 for a meal. The best, most expensive restaurants in Chiang Mai cost far less than you would ever pay for a comparable meal in the U.S. Chiang Mai even has fast-food restaurants like Burger King, Baskin-Robbins, Pizza Hut, Sizzler Steak House, and Kentucky Fried Chicken.

Getting around the city is easy. Tuk-tuks (motorcycle taxis) and songtaews (red pickup trucks) offer cheap public transportation. Chiang Mai does have metered taxis, but they are limited in number, and you will find them mostly at the international airport. You can fly anywhere in the world from the international airport, and the city has excellent train and bus service to all regions of Thailand, too.

There are has many clubs and organizations for expats, as well as several golf courses, cooking schools, numerous churches and mosques, and language schools to help you learn Thai. You can take classes in Muay Thai (Thai boxing), jewelry making, photography, and yoga and meditation.

I attend a Thai language class at the Chiang Mai YMCA three days a week for two hours. The club is 20 minutes from my condo, and offers Thai language courses from level 1 through level 8. It also offers more specialized classes in reading and writing, and specific short courses on getting around the city, shopping, traveling, and asking for help. There are 12 other students in my class from Japan, Korea, Canada, the U.K., Belgium, and Sweden, which gives me the opportunity to make friends with people from all over the world.

On days I don’t have class, I like to visit the city’s temples. One of the temples, Wat Phrathat, sits 3,520 feet above sea level and has stunning views overlooking the city. A short drive from the Wat Phrathat is Bhubing Palace, which is the king of Thailand’s winter residence.

I have visited the hot springs mineral baths located just outside the city, and have gone to some of the national parks, which are a day trip from Chiang Mai. I have also traveled to Myanmar at the Mai Sai border crossing, which is a few hours’ drive north of Chiang Mai and offers some of the least expensive clothes shopping you will find anywhere. I have also spent the day riding elephants in the jungles, and have taken a long-tail boat across the Mekong River to visit a small village on the Laos side of the Mekong.

I plan to take short trips to visit some of Thailand’s island beaches, Cambodia, Laos, China, and Vietnam—all within easy access. Since I have lived here I have not been bored a single day.

Trekking, mountain biking, and dirt biking are popular here due to the mountains and countryside that surround Chiang Mai. Visiting the hill tribes, monkey center, snake farm, and elephant camps are a must.

At the elephant camp, the animals are trained to paint flower arrangements and play soccer and basketball—you have to see it to believe it! You can ride the elephants through the surrounding jungle, too.

If you have dreamed of living in an exotic destination where you can easily live on less than $1,500 a month and not want for anything, then you should check out Chiang Mai. The people here are friendly and genuinely like Americans. Every morning I wake up and wonder why it took me so long to get here.