I love watching people try their first steak in Buenos Aires. Of course, they’ve already heard about Argentine beef–who hasn’t these days? But still, the expression once they try that first bite–a moment of wide-eyed surprise that crumples into pure gastronomic pleasure–never ceases to entertain. And then the inevitable comment: “Now I understand why you like it out here so much.”
Yes, the steaks are really that good. And they are not hard to find in a city where literally thousands of parillas (steak houses) line the streets, seducing passersby with the smell of barbecued meat.
The prices aren’t bad, either: A typical bife de lomo (12 ounces of filet steak) will set you back $10 to $12, while the equally popular bife de chorizo (12 ounces of sirloin) costs from $8 to $10. Steaks are usually served with a choice of fries, salad, or mashed potatoes for another $3 to $5. A good bottle of Malbec wine starts at around $10.
The more touristy places will generally charge a premium, though they also tend to serve bigger portions (some big enough to satisfy two people). Bottom line: You can eat like royalty for less than $20 a head at most places. And here are my six favorite spots to do just that…
Don Julio. This is an excellent parilla in Palermo, and one of the few places in the city that understands what “rare” means. Prices are slightly above average (around $12 a steak), but then so is the quality. There is also a great selection of wines; sign and date your empty bottle to add to the large collection left by satisfied customers.
El Obrero. Although featured in most guidebooks, this little family-owned gem is almost impossible to find among the side streets of gritty La Boca. And the restaurant’s “authentic” porteño image (and prices) are all the better for it. Book a table in advance, and take a taxi to and from the restaurant–this isn’t a part of town to wander around at night.
My favorite discovery in Buenos Aires is a true local joint. The bife de lomo ($10) is as succulent as anywhere I’ve tried in the city, and big enough for two people. The laidback, neighborhood vibe is perfect for long dinners with friends, and low prices make this the best value option on my list. I’ll tell you exactly how to find it–as well as full details of my five other favorite steak houses in Buenos Aires, Argentina–in the current issue of International Living Magazine.
Marc Rogers
For International Living
