A crispness in the air promises Mediterranean winter is on its way. Trees have turned gold, the Tiber is wreathed in early morning mist, and buying cones of hot, roasted chestnuts doesn’t seem a crazy thing to do.

Summer’s muggy heat is a memory. So too, the foot-worn crowds with their over-sized backpacks and fraying tempers. Under winter’s pale blue skies, Italy’s capital is back in the keeping of its inhabitants. Back to its ravishing best.

It’s as if Rome has re-awoken to its real life. The ballet, opera and concert seasons are now in full swing. To the joy of Roma and Lazio fans, so is the soccer season. In numerous trattorie, it’s down with the tourist menus and back to Roman winter warmers.

My seasonal favorites include polenta—a dish of boiled cornmeal—with wild mushrooms, and pasta e ceci, a hearty broth of pasta and chick peas. Admittedly they’re not everyone’s idea of a “must-have,” but artichokes (carciofi) here are fabulous. Braised, deep-fried and served on pizza with pancetta and mozzarella—Romans adore them. In summer, you only get frozen or tinned carciofi, a travesty of the real thing.

Come for good food… Come because hotels and air-fares are cheaper… But the most compelling reason to visit in the off-season is that Rome without the crowds is so much more enjoyable.

You’ll see the Spanish Steps without the usual litter of soda cans and sprawled-out bodies. There are no pickpockets hanging around the Trevi Fountain. And the Forum and Coliseum are far more atmospheric. (It’s hard conjuring up visions of gladiators, slaves and wild beasts when there are jabbering tour guides at every turn.)

First-time visitors rarely realize that Rome is a scrum in summer—and that they’ll spend an inordinate amount of time waiting in line. Even if you enjoy sweltering temperatures, you may still suffer. For most travelers the appeal centers on art, religion and antiquities—not sunbathing. So why go when everywhere is mobbed?

Romans don’t go into hibernation between October and April. Nor do they abandon their sunglasses. While some days can be cold and rainy, sunny ones are plentiful too.

Villa Borghese is always a great place to blow away the cobwebs. One of the city’s largest parks, it’s a favorite spot for strolling and biking, especially on weekends. I came one January for an art fix at the Galleria Borghese and was amazed by the number of locals there to enjoy the outdoors.

Late October usually remains warm, and I’ve had al fresco lunches in January too. As many establishments have gas heaters on their outdoor terraces, you can still watch the world go by. You’ll need a coat in the depths of winter, but there’s no reason to huddle indoors.

Summer is just too sticky for comfort. If work allows it, savvy Romans escape to the beach or the hills. Even the Pope gets out of town. Plans to try certain restaurants or a recommended gelateria may come to nothing if the business is closed for the holidays—and many do for the whole of August.

In summer, the Eternal City can become the Infernal City—too hot and crowded.. But in winter, it’s different. When the lamps go on and shadows deepen, stories rise up from the cobbles and you can lose yourself in times past.

Take Campo dei Fiori, Rome’s famous open-air market. Thanks to tour groups, it’s difficult getting within camera distance of its flower and produce stalls during summer. As its bars are also a tourist magnet at night, it can seem like the ante-room to some dreadful Tower of Babel.

Yet in the silence of a winter dusk, Campo dei Fiori has a totally different atmosphere. Girdled by Renaissance palaces, this is where the painter Caravaggio played tennis (and murdered an opponent).

Many Campo bars were owned by Vanozza Catanei, a 15th-century courtesan. A woman of ill repute, she was also the mistress of Alexander VI, one of the Borgia Popes. Church scandals are nothing new here.

Ordering café corretto (espresso with a shot of grappa), I drank it all in. Rome without the tourists, Rome without the searing heat. Perfect.

Worth Another Look

I’m not much for churches, but my favorite sculpture is in the church of Santa Maria della Vittoria on Via XX Settembre—Bernini’s controversial “Ecstasy of St. Teresa.” An angel with a spear, a woman in rapture—if you never imagined religious art could be erotic, this sculpture may change your mind.

Alternative Rome

Rome extends beyond the Centro Storico, the historic center. Across the Tiber, Trastevere is an equally antique quarter of narrow streets, quaint piazzas and cupboard-sized alimentari (grocery shops) smelling of ripe cheese and strung with garlands of sausages. During classical times, it was the city’s artisan quarter. Restaurants serve authentic Roman cuisine, and I’ve never had a disappointing meal. Aside from the frescoed church of Sta. Maria in Trastevere, there are no major “sights”—the pleasure is in aimless wandering, tuning into its boho vibe.

Even farther from the tourist beat, the Coppede quarter lies beyond the Villa Borghese. Radiating around Piazza Mincio’s “frog fountain” are some of Italy’s strangest architectural dwellings—an Art Deco fantasyland created in the 1920s by an architect called Gino Coppede.

Some buildings look almost Moorish, some could be from Renaissance Tuscany—others defy description. Showstoppers include Palazzo del Ragno (Spider Palace) and Villino del Fate (House of Fairies). Fantastical decorations are everywhere—seahorses, tragic masks, the spider spinning its web. Leading onto Via Dora is a huge medieval-style stone arch—lit by a wrought-iron chandelier.

Photogenic though it is, Rome’s best market isn’t Campo dei Fiori. Like everywhere in the Centro Storico, prices are pitched at tourist levels. For the keenest prices and authenticity, head to Trionfale market in Prati, a residential neighborhood behind the Vatican.

You can’t say you know Rome (or Italy) without understanding something about its favorite obsession. Draped in the blue and white of Lazio or the yellow and red of Roma, Stadio Olimpico is where thousands of soccer fans head every weekend. The two soccer teams share the stadium, so there’s no excuse not to catch one of them playing a home game between September and May.

Where to Stay in Rome

If damask fabrics, antique porcelain and baroque mirrors appeal, then Hotel d’Ingilterra should suit. With postcard views over Rome’s rooftops, it once served as the guesthouse of a 16th-century palazzo. Near the Spanish Steps, it was a favorite with travelers on the Grand Tour; well-heeled friends of the poet John Keats, who lived nearby, stayed here. Promotional nightly rates for November are $254—substantially less than the $355 “promotion” for July.

Outside the historic center, my recommended option is the Mercure Corso Trieste (Via Gradisca, 29), on the edge of the art deco Coppede neighborhood. I stayed a week one January and was smitten by the area. Doubles can drop to $75 at certain times in the off-season.

As I’m never too fussed where I lay my head, the $57 to $76 places around Roma Termini station often do for overnight stays. However, this area can feel seedy, and 1-star hotels rarely engender romance. If you’re stuck, or have bust the budget, try Hotel Sallechia (via Principe Amedeo 85). No website for online booking, but it’s clean and safe with friendly English-speaking staff. Tel. (+39) 06 446-6905.

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