Hiking and mountain biking are popular ways to enjoy Bolivia's spectacular El Choro trail.

Forget the trek to Machu Picchu, Peru. While the pre-Columbian city is truly a work of art, it is difficult not to feel disappointed after hiking for four days only to find a hoard of tourists who got to the top in an hour by train. Instead of following the masses, why not venture off the beaten path and hike Bolivia’s El Choro Trail?

This trek features the same characteristics as the Inca Trail in Cusco, minus the crowds and for a fraction of the cost. Walk in the steps of an ancient civilization along the cobble-stoned road network, which was once among the most widespread and highly advanced transportation systems in the ancient world.

Running from Ecuador in the north all the way to Chile in the south, the network is an astonishing 25,000 miles long. It consists of two north-south roads with numerous minor sections branching off; one of which is now the route of the El Choro Trail. The pathway takes you through three ecosystems beginning with the snow-capped High Andes 15,000 feet from sea level in the city of La Cumbre, then descending into the subtropical vegetation of the Yungas; a pocket of the Amazon nearly 10,000 feet below.

The El Choro is one of the easiest treks in the Cordillera Range and is suitable for all ages. The steady descent is kind on the lungs but can be tough on the knees…a brace or an elastic bandage, trekking poles and good hiking boots are recommended. Depending on your stamina, the trek can be finished in three or four days.

On the first day, when you step off the local bus from La Paz, you find yourself surrounded by black, glistening mountains. The path ahead extends far into a narrow valley before disappearing into cloud-covered forests. Local Bolivians herding llamas in and out of the gorge weave past as you make your way along the beautifully preserved path. With their colorful skirts, shawls and tiny top hats, these predominantly short, plump local women make for an arresting sight as they trudge along on their three to four-day hike up and down the narrow valley.

The vegetation magically changes as you descend—becoming warmer and greener just short of the village where you’ll sleep the first night. Little huts with clay walls and straw ceilings sit among banks of lush grass while vines engulf the stone fences and houses. It’s reminiscent of The Hobbit. A little old Bolivian woman comes out to greet the weary travelers in some ancient Incan dialect while your guide serves as a translator.

After a token payment (under a dollar per night) to the elderly lady you are free to set up your tent in amongst the homes of the locals. Then it is a case of tucking into a hot meal and a cup of coca tea…an apt reward after a long day of trekking.

You set off again the following morning into the deep, misty jungle below, this time passing through thick vegetation and hugging cliffs above the river beneath. The trek ends in the coca farming village of Chairo where you are rewarded with a true sense of accomplishment after a tough physical challenge and a unique cultural submersion. From here, catch a taxi to Coroico for 100 Bolivianos (US$14) or alternatively, hitchhiking is common throughout the country and can save cash.

It’s worth spending a few days exploring Coroico. The hiking trails nearby take you to waterfalls and rivers, and in town the bars and restaurants are worth a look. The oxygen-rich air, warm weather and friendly locals make it a comfortable respite. A bus to La Paz will set you back 250 Bolivianos (US$36) and take roughly three hours.

The Smart Way to Trek El Choro

Wait until you arrive in Bolivia to book your tour—it’ll save you a bundle. Tours booked in La Paz, the capital, are relatively cheap—a three day trek with guide, camping and food will run around $85. However, if you book via an American operator or online, you will pay $250 to $375. (Trekking Machu Picchu will set you back even further, costing over $500.)

Most tour operators in La Paz are located around Sagárnaga street. Just walk down the block and you’ll come across a dozen agencies willing to bargain on price. Club Andino on Calle México 1638 can provide information and recommendations for area treks and hiring a guide, tel. 0102 2312-875.

While bargaining might be okay when dealing with a tour operator, it is important to remember that guides are paid very little. Don’t forget to tip.

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