Country Article / Postcards
The Most Romantic Island Getaway in the World
Date: 05/13/2003Dear International Living Reader,
"Help," I cried out just weeks before I was to marry my new bride. No, not cold feet, but a lack of planning in the post-wedding festivities department. What followed was a frantic slash and burning of travel agents, as I searched for a secluded honeymoon destination. The cheesy travel package variety, with drinks and canned happiness, was not the way I hoped to spend the romantic days ahead. Putting my trust in the digital highway, I posted a challenge on web pages and travel chat rooms, asking others to vote on the most romantic and secluded island getaway they'd ever stumbled upon.
The Out Islands, a string of Bahamian islands in the sub-tropical area southeast of the United States, began taking an obvious lead. Serious travelers willing to stray the beaten path, and those lucky enough to own a boat or plane, shared the secrets of the least publicized Out Island--Cat. I booked a flight.
Admittedly, I had my doubts as the small turbo-prop plane landed, loaded with all of three passengers, on a sandy spit of an airstrip, just 24 hours after I'd said "I do." We were greeted by locals peddling homemade snacks at the open shed-like airport. My new bride and I were offered a ride down the road to the resort.
What a resort it turned out to be! Fernandez Bay Village, one of only three establishments on Cat Island, was nothing less than spectacular. The postcard-like photos I'd seen had nothing on this place. With no major towns, and only occasional hamlets on the island's one main road, Fernandez Bay is a focal point for the area. But it's more like a sailor's retreat than a social center.
The resort, located on a quiet horseshoe-shaped beachfront, has been owned and operated by the Armbrister family for more than 20 years. Tony and Pam Armbrister, a husband-and-wife duo, now operate the facilities, with the help of a dynamic office manager named Donna. Before bags are unpacked, guests are pointed toward a thatched-roof circular bar and verandah just a few feet from the water's edge. The bar, like all the resort's facilities, happily goes unmanned most of the time. The Armbristers invite guests to help themselves on the "honor system."
Other activities at Fernandez Bay--kayaking, canoeing, biking, snorkeling, or taking out the Boston Whaler--are encouraged at one's leisure; it's as if you're at home with your own toys. You're left to create your own adventure. When called on, however, the staff is quick to help. They can organize SCUBA diving on a nearby reef with 100-foot round coral heads, a guided fishing excursion in search of bonefish, or a chartered boat ride on a 23-foot Mako to a private beach for a seaside picnic.
But maybe the best part of the day is dinnertime. Just before nightfall, barefoot guests from the scattered handful of cottages begin their nightly stroll to the dinning area to join the Armbristers and staff for cocktails. Travelers from all over the world meet at the open-air restaurant by the sea to trade tales of the day's events. The food is delicious and fresh--lobster, conch, beef tenderloin, and seasonal vegetables, all served buffet-style in a relaxed beachfront atmosphere.
Paul Spicer
For International Living
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