Take a Look at What I Saw From my Dune Buggy…

The tropical sun was just about straight overhead. A gentle breeze blew in from the ocean, and the temperature was approaching the year-round normal high of about 85 degrees Fahrenheit. It’s supposed to be the rainy season here in the state of Ceará (Northeast Brazil) but we’ve nonetheless seen brilliant sunshine every day this week.

The dune buggy I was perched on suddenly roared to life, as if some unseen signal had been passed to the dozing driver. One by one, at least two dozen similar vehicles fired up, which could have sounded like the start at Indianapolis if the buggies didn’t all have Volkswagen engines. We climbed a nearby hill, snaked through a small village, and made our way to the broad sands of the Morro Branco beach.

From there our fleet of buggies sped for miles down the wide, smooth sand, skirting occasional rocks and splashing through the surf. Looking out to sea we could see the blue, South Atlantic waters, with a handful of small, one-man fishing boats working to bring in the day’s fresh catch…which you can savor in a number of local restaurants.

On the landward side, we passed the fascinating landscape that has made Morro Branco one of the most famous beaches in Northeast Brazil. The alternating white- and red-sand cliffs provided an amazing backdrop to our excursion, with their intricate art-like patterns of erosion, caves and inlets. The cliffs are interrupted here and there with small, rustic beach bars, groups of home-made jangadas (the local fishermen’s tiny fishing craft) and an occasional wind mill.

If you’re going to look at property with a group of people, I thought, this sure beats an air-conditioned tour bus.

Morro Branco is a popular weekend spot for people from Fortaleza, as well as with many travelers moving up and down this section of coast. They come for the beaches, to explore the large nature preserve dotted with freshwater springs, and to sample the delectable seafood in a number of local restaurants. The small village (Vila do Morro Branco) has a handful of boutiques and souvenir shops, and its cobblestoned streets are often filled with shoppers and browsers seeking a day away from the city. Both the village and the red-sand cliffs remind me of more famous Canoa Quebrada, which lies another 58 miles to the south.

We stopped to see a real estate project site in Morro Branco, nestled in a small area in the midst of a large preserve. It’s a high-end, full amenity community, which will be managed by an experienced Brazilian resort operator. The photo of the site above was taken from the back of my moving dune buggy. In August, when this project will be officially released, prices will start at $94,000.

I like this area--both as a day-trip destination and a weekend getaway--and believe it will be popular in years to come. It’s reminiscent of Canoa Quebrada, but Morro Branco has the advantage of being only half the distance from the city of Fortaleza, where most of the tourist trade comes from.

Next time you’re in Fortaleza, set aside a day to make the trip down to Morro Branco. Hire a dune buggy, see some of the state’s most dramatic scenery, explore the dunes, and watch the sunset over a mouthwatering seafood dinner. In the end, you’ll understand why Morro Branco is drawing weekenders from up and down the coast.

Lee Harrison
Roving Latin America Editor, International Living

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