My local cake shop window is a riot of color, with primrose-hued ribbons and vivid green felt as background for the elaborate display of chocolate fish. And chocolate eggs, chicks, ducks, and rabbits. It’s Easter this weekend, and sales of friture, or small fish, are speeding up. Although children are promised some of these for good behavior—supposedly “distributed” by the church bells that are said to fly off to Rome mid-week for their annual blessing—most of the chocolate is for grown-up gourmets, with dark versions of 70% cocoa outnumbering the white and milk choc options.

The Belleville and Tolbiac districts of Paris were a-blaze with firecrackers as February 18 saw in the Chinese New Year. Also known as Spring Festival, the holiday officially heralds the arrival of this season—in the capital it definitely feels as if spring is on its way. More Parisians are now thronging the Quai de la Mégisserie to buy flowering plants and seeds or pots for their balconies… daffodils are peeking through in the parks and squares around the city. Because of the clement weather, the park closest to me, the Buttes Chaumont, is already frothing with brides in white lace being photographed with their new husbands by the lake or under the budding trees.

Business as usual here in Paris now that the festivities are over. Or are they? There’s always a good reason to crack open a bottle and share something delicious here, and this weekend most people will be choosing their galette des Rois, a cake for Twelfth Night, made of flaky pastry—usually with a frangipane filling.