Ice Breaker

The Northwest Passage aboard a Russian ice breaker is a wild and savage land.

The turbines whine, and the rotors bite into the 45 degree Fahrenheit Siberian air, as our big Russian helicopter lifts off of the military airfield at Anadyr, eastern Siberia. It takes 15 minutes to reach the flight deck of the Kapitan Khlebnikov, a Russian ice breaker from Vladivostok, now under charter to Quark Expeditions, out of Darien, Connecticut. The helicopter must make four more trips before the 100+ passengers are all aboard.

Khlebnikov (a purpose-built ice breaker, as opposed to merely having an ice-strengthened hull) was a working vessel before she became our cruise ship; cabins previously assigned to scientists and technical staff are now passenger cabins. Though not refurbished for luxury, ours has ample storage space, a window, and two comfortable single beds--narrow, but long enough for my 6'3" frame. The bathroom with shower is cozy, but that’s good--you need to be able to "get a grip" during rare rough seas.

Water and pack ice was our highway through the fabled Northwest Passage to Resolute, Canada (passage through ice is noisy but not rough). Before setting out for the Bering Strait, we visited Chukchi (Siberian Eskimo) villages and the Russian city of Providenya, a Cold War remnant of about 5,000 souls (most of whom would have followed 45,000 of their comrades to Moscow at the end of the Cold War if they could have come up with the air fare). We shuttled ashore in Zodiacs or helicopters to visit Eskimo villages, archeological sites, and other unique places in Siberia and Canada. Lectures by professional staff on history, geology, anthropology, and wildlife helped us enjoy what we saw even more. Walrus and the occasional polar bear witnessed our passage, and narwhals and beluga escorted the Khlebnikov through stretches of ocean. Temperatures ranged between 40 and 50 degrees Fahrenheit, and wind was rare.

At our leisure, we strolled the deck or visited the bridge with its commanding view 125 feet above the water, chatting with fellow passengers, the captain, or the Russian officers. The dining room has open seating, so we quickly became acquainted with everyone. Cuisine by an Austrian chef is largely European, served by Russian waitresses. After dinner, we relaxed in a comfortable lounge and library, with lots of books on wildlife and (largely polar) exploration.

You need to be healthy, but not especially athletic, to enjoy the many activities on this cruise. Although we’re both over 70, we did not miss much, onboard or ashore. But there are challenges for the young and frisky, too. Hikes are designated short, medium, or long, depending on the hiker’s energy or preference.

Now back home, we find that we can’t quit thinking and talking about this trip. It helps to have patient friends and relatives, and readers.

Ray Batson
For International Living

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Editor’s note: Congratulations to Ray--this is his first (of many, we're sure) IL Postcards byline. If you’re interested in talking up the travel writer life, you should read this frank essay from Steenie Harvey, IL’s resident globe trotter.