Portugal's Medieval Jewel: The Walled Village of Obidós

The ancient wall of Obidós appears suddenly, just off the A8 motorway an hour north of Lisbon. It rests like a tiara on a large hill, a geophysical anomaly in the surrounding low-lying farmland. Inside the wall is a jewel-one of Portugal's most treasured historic villages.

A walk up a cobbled road from a nearby parking area delivers you to the original old stone gateway. The small entrance vestibule with large stone steps leads to the top of the wall. A leisurely walk around the ramparts takes about an hour, and is a definite must-do. The walls offer spectacular views of the main castle and countryside. Looking down into the village, a sea of red tiles parts in places to reveal splashes of vivid blues, yellows, and reds against bright white stuccoed walls.

Not exactly a secret, Obidós attracts its share of visitors. Tour groups of Britons, Germans, French, and Portuguese visit during the peak hours of the day. It's a convenient one- or two-hour stop between the palaces of Sintra to the south and the religious pilgrimage cities of Braga and Fatima to the north and east. Most groups quickly move on, but to simply rush down what serves as the main street in this village to see the castle and climb to the top of the wall deprives the visitor of a truly remarkable experience.

A night within the walls
Spending the night within the walls significantly enhances the entire experience. Options range from a fairly pricey Pousada (one in a chain of restored castles and manor houses that dot the Portuguese countryside) to pension-style accommodations in smaller privately owned houses. Once the tour buses and day visitors leave, the place assumes a blissful quiet. There are not many nightlife options in Obidós, but that fits well with its spirit. Unlike many places in Portugal, the restaurants and bars close at 10 p.m., and are usually empty well before then, especially in the off-season.

Take an after-dinner stroll through the village's narrow cobbled lanes and you are likely to be completely alone, the only sound…the echo of your footsteps on the stone, the only light…the occasional soft glow of lamps illuminating lace window coverings.

Obidós has a variety of cozy, reasonably priced restaurants. Most menus feature traditional Portuguese fare: fresh fish, octopus and shellfish, grilled beef and pork, hearty soups and stews, and the ubiquitous salted cod.

Village shops contain a variety of quality local handicrafts-unique carved stone and wooden pieces, creative glasswork, and wonderful examples of traditional Portuguese tiles. Several shops feature tiles that are faithful replicas of designs used in the 14th and 15th centuries, many of which appear on the walls and facades of historic structures in Lisbon, Porto, and Sintra.

Great buys can be found in red and white wines from local producers, as well as from the famous vineyards in the Douro and Dão river valleys. A bottle of port wine, available at incredibly low prices in some village shops, also makes a gourmet souvenir or gift.

Three options for staying inside the walls
(All rates are for double occupancy, high season, breakfast included)
Bargain
Casa S. Tiago do Castelo, cozy eight-room house converted into a pension-style inn across from the castle; website: www.maisturismo.pt/castelo. Price: 80 euro ($110).

Mid-range
Casa das Senhoras Rainhas, beautifully restored manor house against the wall; several rooms feature patios; good restaurant on site; website: www.senhorasrainhas.com/ingles/start.htm . Price: 165 euro ($225).

Top end
Pousada do Castelo, one of the top 500 hotels in the world, according to Travel & Leisure Magazine; a nine-room section of a 16th-century castle, the Pousada is worth the splurge; website: www.pousadasofportugal.com/portugal/pousada/obidos.html . Price: 250 euro ($340).