Wednesday, Jan. 7, 2009
São Luís, Brazil

The central coast of Northeast Brazil takes up just 400 miles of Brazil’s 4,000-plus miles of tropical coastline. Yet it’s the best example of Brazil’s diversity that you’re likely to find, from the rich Caribbean-style culture of São Luís to the modern highrises and dazzling beaches of Fortaleza.

And that diversity includes properties. From a 3,766-square-foot waterfront historic home for just $64,900 to a 1,076-square-foot beachfront condo on one of the country’s best beaches for only $77,900, there will be something here for everyone.

In São Luís, Brazil’s historic treasure, I look down on the tiny plaza from the balcony of our colonial-era hotel. Bordered on two sides by old cobblestoned streets with stone curbs, its other two sides are hemmed in by historic 18th-century colonial buildings, with their wrought-iron balconies looking down on the simple stone surface.

When we arrived, the plaza was empty. But now a dozen or so white plastic tables have appeared. They’re occupied by a small crowd of festive patrons who are passing the warm evening chatting and drinking cold beer. A nearby entrepreneurial bartender has opened up what appears to be an abandoned building, and is shuttling the icy beverages out to the tables. Hidden around the corner, a young lady sets up her own impromptu bar, consisting of four bottles of rum, a bucket of ice, a few mixers, and plastic cups…on an up-ended wooden crate.

Party in São Luís, Brazil

I hear the unmistakable pop of someone tapping a microphone to see if it’s turned on, and I know a band must be setting up. When the reggae rhythm and sounds of a popular Bob Marley hit begin--in Portuguese--I realize that my experience here in São Luís is going to make my next stop in Fortaleza feel as if it’s on another planet.

São Luís is located on a large tropical island, and is the capital of the state of Maranhão. It was founded by a French naval officer in 1612, and named in honor of Louis XIII. The Portuguese captured it in 1615 and--except for three years of Dutch occupation--remained through independence. São Luís is warm all year, with temperatures in the 80s or occasionally more. Its 89 inches of annual rainfall occur mostly January through June, while July through December are relatively dry.

3,500 Colonial Buildings in São Luís, Brazil

Built on rolling hills, the historic center of São Luís is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, with a remarkable 3,500 colonial buildings still standing. Some of its narrow, cobblestoned streets are pedestrians-only, while many others are barely wide enough to permit passage of one car. The most popular section of the historic center (and most restored) is the section between Rua do Giz and the river, with Rua da Estrela being the best for strolling and exploring. But throughout the historic center, you’ll find a wealth of restaurants, cafés, and shops, catering to all tastes.

São Luís is a fascinating cultural blend of French, Dutch, African, and Portuguese influences. The best example of this is the food. You’ll find everything from rich and hearty seafood stews to fresh fish, to huge pots simmering with black beans, beef, pork, and sausage…a Brazilian signature dish known as feijoada. And the aroma of fresh-baked bread and delectable pastries coming from the French bakeries will remind you that the French were the first ones here.

If you like the lifestyle in a colonial city by the sea, you should have a look at the property market. There are a number of colonials for sale in the best part of the historic district.

One example is a house on a nice section of Rua da Estrela among other nicely-restored homes. It has 2,150 square feet of living space, a small interior courtyard, three bedrooms, and four baths. The asking price is $108,200.

For contact details for this property…and everything else I learned in São Luís, including some amazing properties for sale…check out my full report.

Lee Harrison
Roving Latin America Editor, International Living

To read more IL articles by Lee Harrison, see:

Brazil Beach--My Top 5 Beach Property Picks

New Bridge Links North Beaches to Natal Brazil

Beachfront Property in Brazil for Under $35,000