Bull's blood, networking, and not "just coffee"
Date: 01/22/2007Dear Friend of Europe,
Preparations for the coming presidential elections in France are cranking up a gear, with the press full of articles on the two main candidates, Ségolène Royal and Nicolas Sarkozy, accompanied by rumors that Jacques Chirac will run again. Meanwhile, others are planning their escape…
Rock star Johnny Hallyday, who has become something of a national treasure (despite being Belgian), has moved to Switzerland to escape the wealth tax here. No sooner was this fact reported than a timely advertising campaign for low-cost train journeys to Switzerland was launched—probably not aimed at millionaires like Johnny, but good news for my friend Claire, who loves mountain hikes.
Personally, a sunny destination has more appeal at this time of year. Unfortunately I didn’t make it to Ciutadella, Menorca for the annual outing of their St Anthony’s statue (he gets just a short ride from the gothic cathedral apparently, through the streets, and then back home to his pedestal). Instead I’m left exploring more of the city of light (I stumbled across a wonderful private cinema this week, with its own champagne bar that I intend to get better acquainted with) and checking out some of the expat associations that my colleague Maria reports on below.
In this issue we also bring you guidelines on acquiring property in southern Spain, and a couple of warm, feel-good addresses to help you through the grayness that is found in much of Europe at the end of January.
Bests,
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Leigh Fergus
Editor, The European
P.S. For more news and views about Europe, keep an eye on our Europe website at www.internationalliving.com/europe
P.P.S. If you have any comments or queries, please send them to theeuropean@internationalliving.com
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It’s not “just coffee” in Ljubljana
by Heidi Fuller-Love
I have a friend who thinks that coffee is just coffee. So when we got to Ljubljana, the tiny capital of the even tinier independent state of Slovenia, I dragged her into my favorite kavarna, Kavarna Evropa on Slovenska 47. Confronted with this cafe’s cozy booths, crystal chandeliers, and ample selection of crisp-covered magazines, she started to change her mind, and by the time we’d been served our capuccinos, stiff with cream and fragrant with a rusty dusting of cinammon and powdered chocolate, my skeptical pal had become a firm coffee fan, determined to make the most of Ljubljana’s ambiance-packed coffee houses. I’ve been an addict since I first visited this petite-but-buzzing capital in 1998, because the Turkish, Austrian, and Italian influences in this country barely measuring 20,000 square kilometers have ensured that the coffee is among the best in the world.
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Those in-the-know go to two spots in Ljubljana for that delicious caffeine fix. The kava bars are often poky rooms with just a couple of tables—great for getting your fix on the go. The kavarnas, harking back to the great old coffeehouses of Mitteleuropa, are much roomier places where you can indulge at ease. Here, if you’re lucky, you’ll find plush red seats, sweeping velvet curtains, and chandeliers; there might even be a piano playing softly in the corner. The kava will come served on a silver platter with a glass of water and a wrapped nugget of chocolate served on the side. The bela kava (espresso with milk) is served in a mug and made with boiling hot milk. As for the clientele, they’re a pretty eclectic mix: college kids giggling about their latest conquests, older guys wearing neat pressed suits and reading newspapers, hip students working at looking cool, and tired tourists soaking up the atmosphere and enjoying the chan ce to relax. If you’re of the “coffee is just coffee” mentality, try one of the addresses in the sidebar for a real caffeine experience.
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Paris expat associations—and beyond
by Maria Savage
There are approximately 250,000 American expats currently living in Paris, not to mention Brits, Australians, and a considerable number of Canadians. So, even if your French is limited to start with, you should be able to make friends and contacts at one of the many existing expat associations.
For starters, you might want to contact WICE Institute for Continuing Education, 20 boulevard Montparnasse, 75015 Paris; tel. +(33) (0)1-4566-7550; website: www.wice-paris.org, a volunteer-run association set up by American expats in 1978. The organization offers community events, French classes, art and photography instruction, and other learning opportunities. Annual membership is 65 euro, or 85 euro for a couple.
Here are a few other places to meet friendly faces…
The American Church in Paris
The American Church is very active here, and celebrates its 150th anniversary this year. It has a busy notice board full of rooms to rent, fundraising events, coffee mornings, and other events to sign up for. The American Church in Paris is at 65 Quai d'Orsay, 75007 Paris; tel. +(33) (1)4062-0500 ; website : www.acparis.org.
Expats Paris
This monthly dinner or drinks night, hosted by long-time expat Andy Coyne, is a great way to enjoy the multi-ethnic dimension of Paris. All nationalities are welcome to attend, and English tends to be the main language. Website: http://expat.meetup.com/1/?gj=sj6
American Expats
This group holds a monthly happy hour get-together for Americans—and any other nationality—to share their experiences of being an expat in Paris, providing a relaxed social environment to meet new people. The meetings are generally held on the third Tuesday of the month, but check the website for details: http://american.meetup.com/16/
And also…
The American Chamber of Commerce, website: www.amchamfrance.org, is very dynamic, especially the junior chamber. The American Legion has a branch at 22-24 boulevard Diderot, 75012 Paris; e-mail: American.legion@free.fr
The oldest non-diplomatic institution in France is the American Club in Paris, website: www.americanclubparis.org
The rest of France is not bereft of networks either…
Americans in Alsace
This non-profit organization, headquartered in Strasbourg, helps individuals and families integrate into their new environment. AIA promotes awareness of the lifestyle and culture of France and stimulates new friendships through shared social activities.
B.P. 169, 67004 Strasbourg cedex; email: americansinalsace@yahoo.com
Burgundy Friends
This regional networking website was set up for those living in the famous wine-producing Bourgogne or Burgundy region. Website: www.burgundyfriends.co.uk
Knowing Nantes
A social and business networking group for Anglophones, Knowing Nantes offers information on where to go and how to go about getting settled in Nantes. Website: www.knowing-nantes.moonfruit.com/
Meet You
A social networking community with specific sites for Paris and the Aix-Marseille area, Meet You was designed for English speakers of all nationalities who have come to France to visit or to relocate.
Website: www.meetyou.fr
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Old world-style dining in Budapest
by John Szabo
Amid the exploding gastronomic scene in one of Europe’s most dynamic and beautiful cities, the 112-year-old Gundel restaurant still stands as Budapest’s most famous, classically elegant address for good food. From the mustachioed doorman to the atmospheric Belle Epoque design with chandeliers, oak-paneled walls, and large wooden pillars, little has changed since the doors first opened to the public in 1894—it still oozes characteristic old world charm.
Tourism in Hungary has increased dramatically in recent years, and Budapest has become a favorite weekend getaway for Euro travelers seeking value for money. Low-fare flights and friendly eastern European pricing mean that hotels are often booked on weekends, so it’s best to plan ahead. Dining at Gundel, however, is not cheap—expect to spend 150 to 200 euro per couple including wine. But it is well worth it for this quintessential Budapest dining experience.
Every night a four-piece gypsy band occupies the permanent stage in the center of the dining room, entertaining patrons with classic Hungarian folk melodies alongside some international favorites. Guests come from across the globe to catch a glimpse of Hungary’s rich historic and cultural past and, of course, to try a few local specialties.
The menu offers a wide range of typical dishes, including many created by Károly Gundel himself from the restaurant’s original menu. Gundel even has its own wineries, one in the legendary sweet wine-producing Tokaj region, and a second operation in the historic wine region of Eger northeast of Budapest, famous for the red known as “Bull’s Blood.”
The best deal is to try one of the restaurant’s fixed menus, especially the Traditional Gundel Creations. Each course is expertly paired by the savvy sommelier with both Gundel wines and those of the country’s other top wine producers. Dishes on a recent menu included subtly smoked roe-deer prosciutto, rich torte of goose foie gras, and an intense tarragon-scented venison soup. Main courses also showcase classic Hungarian fall specialties such as broiled catfish with paprika sauce and cottage cheese dumplings, and rare-roasted saddle of venison with roast chestnuts and red wine-currant jus, and sweet potato-poppy seed flan.
For dessert, don’t miss the famous Gundel palacsinta, the signature creation of walnut, rum, raisin, and lemon rind-filled crêpes smothered in dark chocolate sauce, accompanied by a luscious 2000 vintage Tokaji Aszu 5 Puttonyos from the Gundel winery.
Reservations are recommended.
Gundel Restaurant,1146 Budapest, Állatkerti út 2; tel. (361) 468-4040;fax: (361) 363-1917 ; e-mail: info@gundel.hu; website: www.gundel.hu/etterem/index.php?lang=en&mid=2
Note: Jackets are required for gentlemen in the evenings, and pets are not allowed in the restaurant.
Further Reading:
158 Ways To Satisfy Your Appetite Around The World
Slow Food…Fast Food...Traditional Fare…Exotic Delicacies…Quixotic Ambience…Erotic Aphrodisiacs…Affordable Lunch Spots…Opulent Seven-Course Black-Tie Affairs…Rest assured, one CLICK and you’ll never eat a dull meal again…
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Are you about to buy an illegal property?
by Lisa Hartwell
With year-round sunshine and an abundance of good food and drink, Spain is a perfect choice for full- or part-time living. Plus, many bargain properties still exist, particularly further from the coast. However, many properties have an illegal overbuild or may not have been registered. As such, we advise you to use extreme caution when purchasing property here. We’d like to offer a few tips to help make your property purchase hassle-free.
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Don’t let it get the best of you. Find out when to file, how much to pay, and how to use your new status as an expatriate to your greatest advantage. Your taxes don’t have to be so taxing…
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In this country, it is not unusual for land to have been owned by the same family for centuries. Though land tax ( IBI; impuesto sobre bienes inmuebles) is due at the time of property registration, this is often put off until the land or property is sold. When you decide to purchase land, with or without property on it, don’t pay a deposit until a document called nota simple is available—this is an extract of the deed. If the land is not registered this document will not exist; if there is a property on the land but the property is not specified on the nota simple, it is not registered.
If the land itself is not registered, a catastral number will need to be assigned through the ayuntamiento (town hall). As soon as a catastral number is issued, land tax (IBI) will be applied, probably with some delay. However the land also needs to be registered in the land registry, or registro de la propriedad. The time this takes varies from place to place. Don’t forget to determine whether the buyer or seller is expected to pay for these costs.
In the case where the land is registered but existing property is not, the structure must be at least four years old to qualify for registration; this stipulation was set up to allow local council to discover and eliminate illegal constructions. If the structure qualifies for registration, a reputable architect is required to submit a complete plan to the town hall for authorization. In some parts of Spain, a notary seal may also be required.
In the case where land or property has not been previously registered, the buyer may be liable for any unpaid debt incurred by the seller. Common practice in Spain is to add the amount of any unpaid debt to the asking price of the property in order to ensure that the debt is eventually paid. When the land and/or property has been registered with the land registry, there may be a clause on the nota simple referring to “La Ley de Hipoteca.” This is a warning to banks to exercise caution in granting a mortgage on the property in question for a specified period of time, generally between two to five years, during which additional charges may apply.
Always be sure to use a professional broker—he or she will be worth every penny. The staff at Orange Finance, website: www.orangefinance.eu.com is experienced and will be happy to answer any questions you may have.
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