Twenty-five of the World's Best Flea Markets

Date: 10/09/2007

by Robbie McDonald
and prepared by the staff of International Living

Learn more about shopping overseas in IL Postcards.

Albert LaFarge's article "What Is A Flea Market?" asserts that the term is "a literal translation of the French marche aux puces, an outdoor bazaar in Paris, France, named after those pesky little parasites…that infested the upholstery of old furniture brought out for sale." Another theory has it that flea markets began in Paris in 1890 when sanitation laws prevented vendors from selling items likely to contain vermin within city limits. As such, so-called ragpickers were forced to move their business to the meadowland at the outskirts of the city where the present day Le Marché aux Puces St-Ouen still operates.

History aside, I think it's safe to assume that the risk of bringing home fleas in your present day rock n' roll sofa are pretty low. And that means you are now free to concentrate on what really matters about flea markets-namely, that they are a lot of fun, particularly for the world traveler.

You don't want to return home from your travels bearing gifts from the Hard Rock Café, do you? No, you want to present your nearest and dearest with that one-of-a-kind item-a stamp collection from Athens …a vintage chess set from Moscow…$2 pearl earrings from China.

This report was prepared with you, the world shopper, in mind. During your travels, we hope you enjoy soaking up the local color that only a community flea market can offer.We also hope you'll come home a seasoned haggler…with lots of cool stuff!
Happy shopping!
Kathleen Peddicord,
Publisher, International Living

IN EUROPE

1. England: London's best bargains and a laugh

Located in what used to be a timber yard, Camden Lock, (Camden Town or Chalk Farm tube stations; website: www.camdenlockmarket.com), is London's largest flea market. It's also one of the cheapest and caters to a young, hip crowd of customers as well as a vital group of entrepreneurs and artists. Artists here work and sell from their own onsite studios and, in many cases, customers may watch artisans crafting the very items that are offered for sale. Alternative health practitioners abound here, offering everything from reflexology and Tui-Na to Shiatsu and mineral analysis. For a special treat, shop late on a Friday or Saturday and check out the stand-up comedy night at Jongleurs in the middle yard.

2. England: Petticoat Lane-noisy, vibrant, and lots of fun

A particular vendor at the Petticoat Lane Flea Market, (Aldgate or Aldgate East tube, Middlesex Street; Sundays only), has been known to display a sign advertising his business as "the only stall in London licensed by Scotland Yard to sell stolen goods." Whether this is a dose of cockney humor or not, it sets the tone for this jovial place, as much street fair as flea market. If you're looking for high tea, you'll be better off heading to Harrods because this place is noisy, vibrant, and a good deal of fun. Prepare for a good-natured haggle as you eye antiques, jewelry, factory seconds, bric-a-brac, and the like. You can also find some pretty tasty nosh around these parts. Even if you come home empty-handed, you'll have had a great day out.

3. England: London's lowest risk antiques hunting

Portobello Road Market, (Ladbroke Grove or Nottinghill Gate tube; website: www.portobelloroad.co.uk), has been going strong for some 300 years. Long before the area was featured in Notting Hill, this market was widely recognized as a reputable source for second-hand goods and antiques. What's more, it is regulated by the Portobello Antiques Dealers Association (PADA). As such, all vendors must abide by a code of ethics-kind of comforting for those of us who know nothing about antiques. If you're not looking to buy a vintage sideboard or grandfather clock, head down for the street entertainers, laidback Rasta dudes, great neighborhood pubs, and excellent food stalls. This place vibrates.

4. England: London's crème de la crème

On Wednesdays and Saturdays, Camden Passage, Angel Street tube; tel. (020)7359-0190, which is not to be confused with Camden Lock, hosts an early morning flea market (7 a.m. to 2 p.m.). This market specializes in rather high-end items, so you may want to tone down the haggle-speak. The decorative and Victorian antiques you'll find here are of exceptional quality. This may be the only flea market in town where you'll be addressed as "sir" or "madam."

5 . France: Paris' dizzying best

You may not find the deals you once would at Le Marché aux Puces St-Ouen, Métr Porte de Clignancourt; website: www.parispuces.com, but this renowned flea market still offers some amazing finds. For more than 100 years, this square-mile maze of alleyways has housed a wide variety of vendors, from antiques and second-hand clothing dealers to junky household appliance and bric-a-brac hawkers. What you find to be a bargain is largely to do with personal taste as well as endurance: there is a lot of stuff to pick through and, as the saying goes, "one man's junk…" As this is the largest flea market in Europe, it's best to pace yourself here-take frequent breaks at the numerous hole-in-the-wall cafés in the area. This place is open Saturday through Monday.

6 . France: Raiding your French grandma's attic

Perhaps the most authentic of Paris' flea markets, Le Jules Vallès, 7 rue Jules Vallès, has the feel of a grandma's attic. A somewhat haphazard array of dusty collectibles fills these two covered aisles: military uniforms, antique weapons, posters, books, bronze statues, china dolls, as well as fascinating memorabilia. Unfortunately, only trade professionals can gain access to these 120 stalls during the week. However, a scaled-down version of the market is open to the public on the weekends.

7. France: Paris' trendiest flea market

When Alain Serpette, the son of a flea market stallholder, bought up a former Citroen garage, he probably had no idea how trendy the address would become among Paris' high society. These days, Le Marché Serpette, 110. rue des Rosiers, is the place to go for fashionable goods and art nouveau, among other specialties. While this is not a bargain hunter's dream, the quality of the merchandise here is unparalleled. Note: Fellow shoppers are likely to be blessed with keen eyes-act quickly.

8. Germany: Berlin's most unusual stalls

Die Nolle, tel. (49)30-452 9924, is housed in 16 old railway trains at Nollendorfplatz. You'll find a huge array of collectibles to comb through: antique dolls, furniture, sewing machines, kitsch lamps, model cars, books, and records. The traders are known to pack up and leave before closing time, so show up early. Opening hours are every day except Tuesday, from 11 a.m. until 7 p.m. If you're lucky, you may catch a street performance by a jazz band.

9. Greece: Athens' best deals and famous poetry

Located on bustling Pandrosou Street, Monastiraki, (also known as the Athens Flea Market) is a great place to buy Greek souvenirs, original art, carpets, books, old stamps, and even helmets from the Second World War. The street cafés here are particularly good fun and offer some of the best people-watching in town. Stavros Melissonos, who runs a custom shop nearby at 2 Ag Theklas Street, is said to have made the Beatles their sandals back in the day. What's more, Melissonos is a rather famous poet and will happily autograph a copy of his book, the Rubaiyat. Now that's a souvenir!

10. Ireland: Dublin's best for bikes and beanbag chairs

Located in the Rathmines area of Dublin, the Blackberry Fair Flea Market, Rathmines Road and Blackberry Lane, sells such items as antiques, closeout shoes, electronics equipment, bric-a-brac, used furniture, and collectible records. You can't miss the place as you're driving past-it's the place with all the secondhand bikes outside and the big sign that says, "Beanbag chairs: 20 euro." It's probably best to think of this place as more of a jumble sale than an organized flea market. Hours are Saturday and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 6 p.m.

11. Italy: Rome's best haggling lessons

On Sundays, from 6:30 a.m. to 2 p.m., the massive Porta Portese Flea Market, near end of Viale Trastevere, 75 bus to Porta Portese, opens for business. Not a place for the faint of heart, this popular market attracts thousands of aggressive shoppers, gypsies, pickpockets, and you-the unwitting tourist. The vendors here are no shrinking violets either. Well schooled in the art of haggling, these veterans are unlikely to lose on a sale. On the other hand, there are deals to be had here on one-of-a-kind items and oddities. For a first outing, why not just observe the expert shoppers and vendors duke it out. Some proshoppers say that a good rule of thumb is to assume that the starting price is about twice what the vendor expects to get…

12. Netherlands: Amsterdam's multicultural best

Amsterdam's best known day market, Albert Cuyp Market, Ferdinand Bolstraat 44, Amsterdam; website: www.albertcuypmarkt.com, shows the city's diversity at its best. Stalls line both sides of the street for many blocks and include vendors in fish, textiles, new and secondhand clothes, gadgets, and even clogs. There are numerous cafés off the main road should you need to recharge. Opening hours are Monday through Saturday 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.

13. Portugal: Lisbon's best place to steal from thieves

The Feira da Ladra, Campo de Santa Clara, Alfama, translates as Market of Female Thieves. Some 300 years ago, female thieves known as sovaqueiras, concealed illegal goods and sold them at a market in Lisbon's Rossio Square. While the present day market is on the up-andup, you can still find a real steal here, particularly when it comes to bronze, copper, and gold items. This market is jam-packed with antiques, rugs, new and used clothes, vintage tiles (these are great), riding spurs, pottery, as well as a lot of rather useless junk. Opening hours are Tuesday and Saturday from 7 a.m. to 6 p.m.

14. Spain: Madrid's best knockoffs and craftiest pickpockets

If you're looking for designer sunglasses but can't afford the real deal, El Rastro Flea Market, Metr La Latina and Tirso de Molina, stocks some convincing imitations. For that matter, this is a good place for fake "designer" watches, handbags, and clothing as well. Fine imports from India and Morocco-as well as some fairly good quality antiques-are also available. You'll just need to keep your wits about you here: don't dress like a tourist, don't flash money around, and don't believe any deal that sounds too good to be true. Most importantly, beware of pickpockets-this market is as renowned for these hoodlums as for its great deals. Operating hours are 10:30 a.m. to 3:00 p.m. Sundays and public holidays.

IN AUSTRALIA

15. Sydney's best one-of-a-kind items

At The Rocks Flea Market, L6 Harrington Street; tel. (61)2-9280-8717, some of the vendors sell one-of-a-kind aboriginal pieces at reasonable prices. Other vendors include artisans who specialize in handcrafted puzzles, ceramics, and prints; soap and candle makers; and plant and flower sellers. What's more, some of the baked goods sold here are better than mom's.

IN ASIA

16. China: Beijing's best place for everything…including the kitchen sink!

Affectionately referred to as the "dirt" market, Panjiayuan Flea Market, Third Ring Road, had been somewhat of a free-for-all until recently. Collectors and vendors alike were concerned when talk of "regulating" this joyful jumble sale started about two years ago. Up until then, junk dealers and artisans had simply carted their wares to this dirt field by the railroad tracks-no licenses, no stalls, no facilities. As it turns out, a few minor changes have been implemented while a great deal of the boisterous atmosphere remains. You can still get Buddhist statues, old opium pipes, posters, post cards, second-hand instruments …and one vendor specializes in old, grimy sinks. The prices are still rock bottom and the vibe is pure, dirty fun.

17. China's best place to get pearl earrings for less than $2

Hongqiao Flea Market, (the northern gate of the Temple of Heaven, Chongwen district), is a multi-story market full of noisy vendors and often fanatical customers. Restaurateurs can buy live crab from vendors on the basement floor; the ground floor caters to electronics buyers; purses are well-represented on the second floor; and the third floor deals in everything-shoes, jewelry, jade, teapots, as well as a rather remarkable pearl market. You can get a pair of pearl earrings here for as little as 15 yuan (that's less than $2).

18. Israel: Tel Aviv's most jaw-dropping deals

In this world, there are deals…and then there are steals. If you're on a haggling roll at the Jaffa Flea Market, Yefet and Aleystion Streets, Old Jaffa, you may get merchandise for one third of the (already low) asking price. Whether you're a fan of kitsch junk, good quality antiques, old books, or musical instruments, this colorful place will have something for you. The rugs sold here are of particularly good quality and can be purchased for next to nothing. This place is a hive of activity from dawn to dusk every day except Saturday.

19. Japan: Tokyo's best discounts

Ameya Yokocho, Yamanote Line between Ueno and Okachimachi Metro, is a mish-mash of about 400 vendors selling fish, fruit and vegetables, purses, shoes, clothes, cosmetics, and watches. You'll find tourists, families, and Tokyo's trendiest young people here. We all know that Tokyo's an expensive place, particularly in the tourist areas. Why not go where the locals go? You're sure to find some of the best deals in the city here.

IN NORTH AMERICA

20. Canada: Ottawa's perennial best

Regardless of the weather, vendors at the Byward Market, 55 Byward Market Square, Ottawa, Ontario K1N 9C3, set up outside 363 days out of the year (even they get a break Christmas Day and New Year's Day). With a total of 175 stands spanning four blocks, the fare varies depending on the season. As such, during summer months, you'll find bedding, plants and flowers, arts and crafts, as well as wonderful maple syrup and honey. During the winter, you can buy Christmas trees, wreaths, and firewood. When you've finished shopping, you'll find lots to do in the surrounding area, which is fast becoming one of Ottawa's trendiest.

21. New York's celebrities' choice

The Annex Antiques Fair and Flea Market, Sixth Avenue between 25th and 26th Streets; website: www.annexantiques.com, has attracted customers-ranging from local residents and tourists to artists and celebrities-for nearly thirty years. This place is great for antiques, furniture, and collectibles. So, are you ready for the list of celebs? Well, to name a few, the following have been sighted: Britney Spears, David Bowie, David Duchovny, Boy George, Barbra Streisand… (Go on then; go to the website for a complete list.)

22. San Francisco's best place to buy a rock n' roll couch

Alemany Flea Market, 100 Alemany Boulevard; tel. (415)647-2043, is housed under the concrete arches of Highway 280 on Sundays. Yup, a lot of this stuff is complete and utter junk, but you can find some pretty cool bohemian-style furniture, the odd lava lamp, some cool prints, cooking utensils, or even an occasional antique. The best part is that the vendors really just want to get rid of this stuff, so you'll get some smokin' deals. Think of this place when you need to furnish an apartment for about $100.

IN SOUTH AMERICA

23. Argentina: Buenos Aires' best street entertainment and some great deals

A fair amount of buying goes on at the Plaza Dorrego Flea Market, Calle Defensa, San Telmo, but a lot of people seem to come for the entertainment. From mimes and puppeteers to musicians, singers, and tango dancers, this place has it all. Vendors dealing in antiques, jewelry, silverware, and old record players, are standing by to make a deal with you. Make sure you have enough money left over at the end of the day to put a few coppers in the mime's hat! Unfortunately, this extravaganza happens only on Sundays.

24. Uruguay: Montevideo's best way to spend a Sunday morning

A good way to get the blood flowing after a rough Saturday night is to head to La Feria Tristán Narvaja Flea Market, Tristán Narvaja Street. This colorful place bustles with activity as vendors hawk their wares. You can find old records, books, clothes, plants, and even pets here. One vendor is said to deal in vintage dentures!! Part folk fair, part market, this vital place will perk you up quicker than a double espresso.

IN RUSSIA

25. Moscow's matryoshka dolls and more

The Izmailovsky Souvenir Market, Izmailovsky Park Metro, is a full-day out. Whether you buy or not, you're sure to have a stimulating experience. Street performers abound, as do interesting vendors and customers-it's all part of the show. Choose from costume jewelry, chess sets, Soviet memorabilia, original art, and, of course, hand painted matryoshka dolls. By all means, get into the act and do a bit of haggling yourself! This market is massive, but you're in luck: the area boasts loads of relaxing cafés at which to set your packages down and take a breather.

Further Resources
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