Discover a New Europe: Opera $17, Two-course Lunch $5…

The old town of Bratislava, where you can experience European culture for less money.

Thursday, April 17, 2008
Bratislava, Slovakia

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Bratislava is an eye-opener. On the banks of the Danube, it’s the capital of Slovakia, a small central European country established in 1993.

I’ve only visited Bratislava once before—over four years ago on a quick day trip from Vienna. Admittedly, I saw little, but I wasn’t overly wowed. Its historic center was fairly dowdy and run-down, and, from the train window, the outer suburbs looked like a grim mass of communist-era concrete.

But now there are bright shopping malls, new residential districts with lots of green spaces, and a feast of cultural offerings. These changes came about due to funding from the EU after the country became a member in 2004. Much of Bratislava’s old center has also been transformed into picture-book prettiness: a castle-crowned town of slender black and blue-green copper spires; burgher’s houses; cobbled lanes; inviting medieval archways.

Many restored buildings have been repainted with the pink, cream, and lemon colors that typify the old Austro-Hungarian Empire. I love the quirky new statues (what the bronze figure emerging from a manhole cover signifies I can’t figure), but the past isn’t totally forgotten: A massive memorial on Slavin Hill commemorates the Soviet Army soldiers who died liberating Bratislava during World War II.

For tourists seeking culture, history, and easy access to other parts of central Europe, Bratislava makes a great base. The spa town of Piestany, a number of castles, and Vienna are all easy day trips. An apartment for short-term rentals may prove a money-spinner. At present, there’s limited choice (but I’ll tell you more about what real estate is on offer next week).

Bratislava now attracts tourists with its affordable culture. I’ve already had an opera fix and seen La Bohème. Eighth row from the front, right in the center, my seat cost 350 Slovak crowns (about $17 at today's exchange rate). I’ve also purchased a ticket to the ballet. Again, a prime seat, and even cheaper, at 300 Slovak crowns ($14.85).

Even in winter, hydrofoils bring day-trippers from Vienna. They must be amazed at the lunchtime specials—many places have two-course lunches consisting of a hearty soup for starters, then something like goulash stew with dumplings, all for 99 Slovak crowns. That’s less than $5.

Bratislava’s nightlife is another attraction: clubs, pubs, and hip new cafés abound. With local beer often only $1.35 for half a liter, it has become a venue for bachelorette and bachelor parties from the U.K. Most arrive on budget Ryanair flights.

There is a choice of international food on offer here: Japanese, Spanish, Mexican, Indian, Chinese, Argentinian, Lebanese, and even American fast food chains. Last night I dined at a Belgian restaurant called De Zwaan, where I enjoyed the favorite Brussels dish, a cauldron of mussels cooked in beer, crispy golden fries with mayonnaise, and two Belgian beers. I did splurge here—the bill came to $31—but everything else is so cheap, I could afford to.

Beyond the old center are restaurants where menus are solely in Slovakian and prices are far cheaper. The previous night I tried the restaurant U Dvoch Levov. Complete with animal heads on the wall, the restaurant is behind a bar with wooden tables packed with old men. Not knowing what it was, I chose one of the most expensive dishes for 199 Slovak crowns ($9.85). A meal of tender sliced beef garnished with berry-topped cream and potato croquettes was placed in front of me. Fruity red wine is an equivalent $1.60 per glass.

Steenie Harvey
Roving Europe Editor, International Living

Editor’s note: What a great life Steenie has, seeing the world, experiencing new cultures and cuisine, meeting new people everyday… You could also have this lifestyle by starting your career as a freelance travel writer today.

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