Bordeaux: Paris—Without the Label

Wednesday, Aug. 20, 2008

Read more about France in International Living Postcards —your daily escape

Dear International Living Reader,

If you like red wine, chances are you enjoy a drop of good Bordeaux. And if you like cities with a history, a laidback lifestyle, and drop-dead-gorgeous architecture, you won’t be able to resist the old port city where this wine was shipped from. And the good news is that property prices in Bordeaux are less than half those in the capital.

As soon as you enter the city along the banks of the Garonne river, or as you step out of the train at St. Jean station, the sunshine and the elegance of Bordeaux’s 18th-century skyline start to work their charm. Sleek new trams whisk you smoothly from one end of the city to the other; there’s a bicycle rental system —with few hills, it’s a paradise for lazy cyclists —and many of the central districts, such as the chic Cours de l’Intendance, are free of cars. You can hop from café to restaurant to designer boutique without noise or risk. This is a city to savor slowly, like a fine wine.

Like Paris, the city is cut in two by a river. Unlike Paris, Bordeaux’s left bank is the only one worth seeing. This is where to find the city’s wine museum (wine has been made here since the eighth century) and some of the famous cellars that let you try before you buy. And this is where to wander the banks of the Garonne, enjoy the shade of the trees on Europe’s largest square, the Esplanade des Quinconces, and find the best seat for people-watching and relaxing on one of many elegant squares that seem made for café terraces. The Bordeaux residents know a thing or two about the good life —there are more restaurants here per person than anywhere else in France.

And yes, the streets really do remind you of certain parts of Paris, but with added sunshine and more livability. Not surprising, really —Haussmann saw how Bordeaux had been rebuilt in the 18th century and went back to copy what he saw in the capital.

Properties in the most central —and elegant —district of Quinconces, close to the riverfront, start at €3,150 ($4,650) per square meter. Compare that with €9,500 ($14,000) and more in Paris’ St. Germain des Pres. And in the popular area of St. Michel, the square-meter price is €2,222 ($3,000). For €50,000 ($74,000) you can buy a studio of up to 269 square feet, depending on the location in the city; Bordeaux has a university and a number of business schools, and these properties are much in demand.

I consulted some of the local notary offices for the best deals. In the sought-after Chartons quarter to the north of Quinconces —traditionally where the Dutch and English wine merchants had their homes in the 18th century —you can find a 398-square-foot property in a solid stone building for €99,000 ($146,000). For €186,750 ($276,000), the notary office of Garibal and Lariviere has a 624-square-foot two-bedroom apartment with a terrace and views of the city rooftops in the up-and-coming Victoire district. Or how about a 942-square-foot, two-bedroom apartment in a 19th-century stone building on a quiet street with original moldings and fireplace and a large terrace? Price: €281,500 ($416,000).

But it was the townhouses that I fell in love with: I saw a place offering 1,600 square feet that included a living room with a cathedral-style high vaulted ceiling, four bedrooms, two bathrooms, a terrace, and a garden. This elegant old stone house close to the tramway near the town center was going for €500,000 ($739,000) through Cabinet Bedin. Very tempting, especially with such easy access to good wine.

Leigh Fergus
Europe Editor, International Living

P.S. If you fancy buying a vineyard in the region, you’ll need deep pockets for a name like Pomerol or St. Emilion. Prices for these start at €750,000 ($1.2 million) for a hectare, but €20,000–35,000 should get you a hectare of Cote de Bourg or plain Bordeaux.

Read related IL Postcards:

- The Cheapest Homes in France’s Wine Country

- Did You Know a Paris Apartment Could Be This Cheap?

- French Coastal Properties: 19.6% off