Living With the Stars in Lombardy

The EU is 50 this year, but France has been celebrating something much more exciting. Last Tuesday, the French media were crowing with national pride at the latest world record-breaking, high-speed train journey: A TGV (Train à grande vitesse or “very fast train”) reached a dizzying 574.8 km/h (357.2 mph) on the new high-speed track linking Paris to the east of the country.

The transport sector here can be a source of great cheer to many French––not just rail exploits but also the giant new Airbus operation and the über-tech military Rafale jet. But, if you prefer four wheels for driving around the country or exploring the rest of the EU, read on to find out how to save money on car rentals.

Bests,

Leigh Fergus
Editor, The European

P.S. The British artist Tracy Emin we mentioned last week, who made the headlines with her unmade bed piece, has been made a member of the Royal Academy of Arts for painting. Will this mean an end to controversy?

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Your view of Lake Como for less than $200,000

by Stefania Russo

Lake Como, barely half an hour from Milan, never goes out of style: In 1818, the poet Shelley said that the lake “exceeds anything I ever beheld in beauty.” Now, two centuries on, there’s every chance you’ll agree.

The pearl of the lake
Italy’s third largest lake (and one of Europe’s deepest), this 56-square-mile pool of calm water bordered by mountains, hills, and woods is picture-postcard material. Almost every point along its 105-mile coastline offers a stunning view. Bellagio, with its steep, cobbled streets, has one of the best views of the lake and Alps and is known as la perla del lago (the pearl of the lake). Nearby to the east lies the traditional fishing village of Varenna and the town of Cernobbio, famed for its pastel-colored houses and the Villa D’Este, a luxury hotel with Italy’s only floating swimming pool.

Attracting the stars
A restaurant on the lake’s sole island, Comacina, shows that Lombardy’s most famous site has no difficulty attracting stars such as Brad Pitt and Sylvester Stallone. Pop into Laglio and you might just bump into George Clooney, who has a $10-million villa there. It’s hardly surprising that average property prices around Lake Como have risen 25% in the past two years alone.

If you want your own home in this tranquil part of the world, you won’t need to dig quite as deep as George did. A one- or two-bedroom apartment with views of Lake Como can be found from $180,000, while a private villa with two bedrooms, two bathrooms, a study, lounge, kitchen, and large garden, with a view of the lake, will cost $680,000. Fixer-uppers can be found in the area from just $65,000.

[Editor’s note: Stefania Russo works for The Property Organiser Ltd., an independent agency run by Italian professionals that finds buyers property in Italy without charge. You can contact her by e-mail at stefania.russo@propertyorganiser.co.uk.]

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Fairytales

by Len Galvin

This isn't bear country, or even wolf country, really. But, alone in the woods at dusk, it's easy to imagine meeting horrific versions of both—or worse—here in fairytale country.

The Fairytale Road, or Deutsche Markenstrasse, is a 400-mile trail in central Germany connecting the towns, villages, and hamlets where the stories popularized by Jacob and Wilhelm Grimm are set.

Sleeping Beauty...the Pied Piper of Hamelin...Hansel and Gretel...Little Red Riding Hood...Rumplestiltskin...the Musicians of Bremen...Rapunzel...Cinderella...Snow White...these tales and dozens of others originated here, whispered around the hearths in half-timbered villages and swapped among the men and women working in the (still-standing) castles and palaces.

Little-changed in the last 200 years
The route runs from Bremen to Hanau, but the section between Hanover and Gottingen is richest in history and folklore. You'll find an information office at every stop along the way, no matter how small the village, detailing the story behind their fairytales. March and April are good months to visit, before the season hits.

There's something to strolling about this part of the world, little-changed in the last 200 years, without the benefit of a tour group. A light covering of snow on the forest floor, a lone tendril of smoke barely visible from a distant chimney, this is where Beauty slept, the Pied Piper fled, and two newly plump siblings skipped happily away from the half-eaten house of a vanquished witch.

P.S. The Brothers Grimm collected and published more than 200 stories from this region in the early 1800s. Unlike the children's versions you know, this original collection was intended for adults; the tales were extremely dark and were even banned for a time.

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Out of Cannes into the quiet

by David Block

If you’ve ever wondered whether there’s more to Cannes than the shops and promenade, just take a stroll past the Palais des Festivals, along the beachfront, and west beyond the marina. Ten minutes later you’ll arrive in the hilly district of Le Suquet for a leisurely break from the upmarket swank of downtown.

This is the Riviera of yore, the old heart of Cannes with a more discreet profile and energy than the hyped seafront. Here you’ll find good views of the harbor…and lower prices. You’ll immediately notice the low-key ambiance in the busy covered market of Forville found at the base of the hill that forms Le Suquet. Stock up on fresh fruit and veg for your picnics, or simply enjoy the stalls of flowers, olives, pasta, sauces, and freshly caught fish. Ready-cooked meals to take out can be had from the large choice of traiteurs (delicatessens) around the market.

A panoramic reward
For an unexpected bonus, follow the cobbled serpentine route upward from the market. This leads to the Musée de la Castre, built on the remains of a medieval castle, housing a collection of art and artifacts from the Pacific, the Himalayas, and the Americas alongside Mediterranean antiquities and pre-Columbian ceramics. Although it's an upward struggle to get to la Castre, the panoramic view from the museum’s tower is a reward in itself. From here you can enjoy one of the best views of the city, stretching over the Croisette and the bay with the islands of Lérins in the distance.

To see the islands close up, go back down the hill to the port and catch the ferry for the short crossing to Ste. Marguerite or St. Honorat.

Best crossing
Sainte-Marguerite is the larger and nearer of the Lérins islands, covered by pine and eucalyptus trees and criss-crossed by paths. The beaches are less crowded here and the small port area has cafés and restaurants that fill up swiftly at lunch time. It's a short walk from the port to the Fort Royal and the Musée de la Mer. The oldest section contains former state prisons—and the cell that was home to The Man in the Iron Mask for 11 years.

The smaller isle of St. Honorat is conducive to voluntary contemplation and has seen monastic activity for over one thousand years. A Cistercian monastery of some 25 monks, also known as the Abbaye de Lérins, is located here. Peace and quiet is the rule—no loud noises, radios, or shouting permitted, making a pleasant alternative to all the Cannes hype.

How to get away
You can reach Le Suquet by carrying on west along the promenade or main shopping streets.
Musée de la Castre, Le Suquet, 06400 Cannes; tel. + 33 (0)4 93 38 55 26. Entrance: 3 euro; website.
Ferries: Round trip to the island of Ste. Marguerite or St. Honorat is 11 euro ($14.60). Timetables are on the website.
The abbey on St. Honorat opens its doors for religious retreats, although these are limited for the moment to men between the ages of 25 and 38. Check the website.

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Five ways to save on your next European car rental

by Neil P Harkins

Put off by international timetables and endless airport lines? Seeing Europe from the front seat of a car is an alternative that doesn’t need to cost the earth…

1. Cheaper airfares often mean cheaper car rental rates, so make sure to do your homework well in advance of your trip—the websites listed below will help you with price comparisons. As an example, 30 days in a compact car rented from Frankfurt airport, Germany costs $310 less than when rented from Luxembourg’s main airport (prices quoted here are from Auto Europe).

2. Be flexible when choosing the pick-up location. Rental agencies’ airport and train station offices generally have higher rates than their city offices where, often, no taxes or other service fees are levied on the base price. Sometimes the car can be returned to the airport if you need without extra charge—be sure to check the agency’s return procedure before leaving the airport to fetch the car. Renting a compact car from a Frankfurt city office instead of the airport saves you $180 (at Auto Europe); even after your taxi fare, you’ll still have enough money for gasoline, dinner, and a hotel room.

3. If the car is to be returned in another country, ask the agency if a vehicle from that country is available on their lot. The one-way drop-off fee (around $150 for a pick-up in Frankfurt and a drop-off in Paris) is generally waived because you are doing them a favor. Ask about the return procedure at the final destination.

4. Pay with a major credit card and decline the Collision Damage Waiver (CDW) insurance. The CDW insurance from the agency’s Frankfurt city office for a compact costs almost $400, but credit cards typically provide free insurance coverage for 30 consecutive days (make sure to review your card’s benefits disclosures). To safely insure for more than 30 days, make several reservations of 30 days maximum each time, return the car after each reservation, and use a second card for the next rental period—or go without a car for a day, and use the first card again.

5. If you’re traveling for more than a couple of weeks, why not consider a short-term lease? Auto Europe has partnered with the French Peugeot automobile company, offering non-European residents factory-new vehicles for up to six months. The “Open Europe” program requires advance reservation of at least one month. Your car is shipped to the European arrival city of your choice, fully insured and tax-free. No fee is charged for delivery within France, but you’ll pay a distance-based rate when the car is shipped to other countries. In France, a compact leased for 45 days costs $230 less than renting the same vehicle in Paris. Delivery of a leased compact to Frankfurt will cost $310 more than if you rented it in this city—the lease becomes more cost-effective after about 70 days. Remember that gasoline and your time are not cheap, so the convenience of an uninterrupted, f ully insured, drive-anywhere car may still be worth the extra lease money.

Websites for wheels
I have used and recommend the following car rental websites: Auto Europe, Orbitz, and Sixt.