The Best Way to Enjoy a Vacation in Cuba

Cuba's muggy humidity made our lazy wanderings feel like we were walking through soup. But despite the heat and our rusty Spanish, we made it from Havana to the small rural town of Viñales and into the welcome arms of Thomasina and Juan Rivero. The couple opened their home to nomads almost 10 years ago. It's just as well that they did, because Cuba has no hostels, and all hotels are government-run—and expensive.