New Zealand’s Highest Hotel and Most “Primordial” Hike

The North Island of New Zealand holds a treasure missed by hikers who limit themselves to the south Island. It’s the Tongariro Alpine crossing, a day hike among volcanoes—some dead, some smoldering, and all with an otherworldly feel that recalls the moon. The crossing sits atop Tongariro National Park, in the middle of the North Island. The night before my wife and I did the crossing, we stayed in the park at the Skotel,