Painting Bali: A Jaded Artist Creates a New Life on $2k a Month

Balinese food is very much like the Balinese people," said Beth Kolbuch. "It’s understated, subtle, and nuanced."

Dressed in a colorful sarong and a Balinese blouse, with a flower behind her ear, Beth could have passed as a local Balinese at the Joglo D’Uma restaurant where I met her. In fact, she’s Canadian—albeit one who’s long lived in Sideman (pronounced see-dee-man), an inland Bali village surrounded by lush rice paddies and terraces.

In Vancouver, as a single mom and former art teacher, she told me she’d become jaded about life in Canada. "I was tired of the winters, the 9-to-5 existence, the cost of living. I could never seem to get ahead," she said. "Once my daughter was off to college, I realized: I didn’t want to fade away."

Beth had long been fascinated by the colors and intricacy of Balinese art, and had taken on miniature painting—an art form traditional to the village of Keliki, 40 minutes from Sideman. Nine years ago, she came to follow her passion for art… and never left.

"I didn’t realize how stressed I’d become," she explained. "Soon after arriving in Bali, I recognized that the screw on the bottle of pop, so to speak, was far too tight." The friendly locals, slow pace, and sunshine soon convinced her to move permanently. She returned to Canada to apply for her Indonesian retirement visa.

Sideman attracted her as a relatively isolated village that had stayed true to its artistic traditions. For the first few months, in order to immerse herself fully, Beth lived with a Balinese family—"who are still my best friends," she adds. But she admits to serious misgivings at first: "Why did I give up a good job? What am I doing so far from home?

"It’s an artist’s delight to capture this landscape."

"But then my daughter sent me a three-word text I’ll never forget. It’s the words I still say to any newcomer," she says. "‘Give it time.’"

"My Daughter’s Friends Are Jealous of My Lifestyle"

Now, Beth lives in a two-bedroom cottage halfway up the mountain. It has a view of the Tukad Yen Unda river, and Gunung Agung—a volcano sacred to the Balinese. Her rent is $500 a month, and she advises that if you pay a year in advance, you’ll get a substantial discount.

Her lifestyle is one of simplicity. She hikes for hours looking for vistas to paint, surrounded by waterfalls, streams, and mountains. Farmers grow colorful flowers for temple offerings. "It’s an artist’s delight to capture," she says.

Over the years, Sideman has still retained its local authenticity. The lush surrounding valley is sprinkled with other small villages, as well as small resorts, restaurants, and tourist accommodation. There’s more of a tourist presence, and a few more retirees have joined the community, but the village of 40,000 has remained otherwise unchanged.

"The villagers’ main priorities are family and community," says Beth. "I’m invited to and attend all major ceremonies and festivals… My neighbors have continually made me feel part of the kampung (village)."

Beth gives back to the community, too, by volunteering at the local school. It’s nothing like Canada, she says. "The children are so respectful and polite, their artistic ability is phenomenal, and they want to learn so badly. I always come back laden with fruits and vegetables, gifted by the parents."

Beth occasionally cooks with these gifts, plus her groceries from the early morning market ("The Balinese insist on their food being fresh, and it’s all grown in fertile volcanic soil.") and Western fare from the Bintang supermarket. On her shopping list: arak, a Balinese palm wine that costs $4 for a good bottle.

But Beth eats out more often than not. It’s hard to resist when a three-course meal at a high-end resort costs under $15.

Her daughter visits at least twice a year, usually with friends in tow. "They’re all jealous of my lifestyle," Beth laughs. They often head to Gianyar, a night market 30 minutes away with "some of the tastiest street food in Bali."

But there’s plenty to do closer to Sideman: classes where Beth crafts exquisite silver jewelry, cooking classes at Surya Shanti Villa, yoga at Sideman Yoga Center. A couple miles south is Sukahet Sari Bali Countryside, where you can take classes on Balinese culture and sustainability… and ride a plow behind a buffalo.

Beth will often head out to the larger uplands town of Ubud, where she catches up with her North American and Australian friends and stocks up on art materials. She also likes to make a pit stop at the Om Ham Retreat and Resort for a massage from Master Ketut. "It’s mind-blowing, so much so you have to book a couple months in advance," she advises.

"The great thing about Bali," she adds, "is that nowhere is really far."

Bali’s Monthly Cost Breakdown

Beth buys art supplies in Ubud, then sells her paintings at the market—making up to $1,200 a month.|©iStock/Nikada

Beth’s monthly budget is just under $2,000, with a few hundred going toward painting supplies. Twice a month, with the help of a local friend, Beth sells her paintings at the art market in the nearby tourist town of Amed. In a good month, she makes $500 to $1,200. ("But it’s not just the money," she says, "it’s the feeling that someone appreciates my work.")

$150 goes to her Vespa scooter rental, which gives her the freedom to go where she wants, when she wants. "I love the exhilaration of riding it," she says. "I’d never ridden a motorcycle before coming to Bali."

$130 goes to health insurance. Sideman has a basic community hospital, but there are several internationally renowned private hospitals and clinics, like BIMC and Siloam, in major tourist hubs and the capital of Denpasar. While these options are more expensive, they’re generally the best choice for Westerners; healthcare workers here speak English fluently, and facilities are kept up to Western standards.

She also pays $600 a year for her retirement visa, the Retirement KITAS. It’s a five-year annual renewal visa, with an initial payment of $800 per applicant plus the annual fee. (Beth advises those interested to go through a local Indonesian immigration agent to save time and money.)

Beth says that having a teaching background, like her, is helpful for making a living but not necessary. "If you’re able to read the front page of your local newspaper and have a basic grasp of English grammar, it’s possible to find employment," she laughs, "especially if you have a North American accent. The tourist industry is of vital importance, and ergo so is English.

"I have friends with no teaching experience who are employed just to engage in conversation, earning enough to fund their overseas lifestyle."

Most Balinese, she says, speak basic English, so she’s able to get around easily without speaking much Balinese or Indonesian.

So, does Beth recommend Sideman for retirees?

"If you like surf, sand, partying, or hustle and bustle, this isn’t the place for you," she says. "But if you want to learn about Balinese culture, practice yoga, paint, trek, and mix with like-minded retirees and expats… then come."

"The great thing about Bali is nowhere is really far."

Beth loves being able to follow her passion on her own terms in Sideman. "No one’s telling me what to do, or where to go. I found a place where I could reinvent myself and be who I wanted to be—and if I can, you can too. Sometimes I think I’m dreaming," she adds, "but this is my reality."