By Kasandra Ferguson
Located on the Cooley Peninsula in County Louth, Carlingford embodies the highlights of Irish coastal living, both for visitors and those looking to settle down.
With a charming walk along the Carlingford Lough, plenty of pubs and restaurants (with lots of fresh-caught seafood), and the Cooley Mountains visible all around, there’s no shortage of activities to enjoy.
Some of Ireland’s best experiences are remarkably accessible.
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You don’t need an elaborate itinerary or a big budget to enjoy the country. Historic ruins can be free, coastal walks cost nothing, and places like Carlingford are easy enough to reach for an impromptu day trip.
As a long-time Louth resident, Carlingford is the ideal summer day trip.
It echoes many of the charms of Galway, my first place of residence upon moving to Ireland five years ago, but feels cozier.
My husband and I can set off early and spend the day in the sunshine.
We always grab a soft-serve ice cream and take a walk by the water up to the beautiful ruins of Carlingford Castle, which can be viewed for free.
A wealth of lovely, colorful pubs and cafés line the streets, but my favorite for coffee or baked goods is Ruby’s Café.
In addition to normal breakfast and lunch, they serve a menu of delicious, homemade cakes and pastries alongside coffee or afternoon tea.
If I’m seeking lunch or dinner, I enjoy PJ’s, a bar and restaurant just a short walk from the water with seafood, burgers, and four styles of oysters on the menu. A classic fish and chips costs about €24 ($27).
Carlingford food and drink can be a touch pricier than farther inland, given its rate of Irish tourism, but the fare you’ll get here is definitely worth the price.
Living slightly inland can give you the best of both worlds.
Popular coastal towns can command tourist prices, particularly in summer. Living nearby rather than right in the heart of a destination can mean lower everyday costs while keeping the coast, restaurants, beaches, and scenery within easy reach.
For beach walks or sea swims, there are several options, including the town’s coastline, the Templetown Beach, and Gyles Quay.
The latter two are a short drive away, and all are ideal destinations for families, with Templetown in particular having a lifeguard on duty during the summers.
There are several hotels in Dundalk and across the Cooley Peninsula, but if you’re looking for a hotel right in the center of town, there are options. McKevitt’s Hotel, Restaurant, and Bar offers rooms for €180 ($200) per night on weekends during peak travel times, such as mid-August, and you can have a traditional full Irish breakfast (of course!) for €15 ($18).
For those looking to travel to Carlingford just for the day, a bus takes off every couple of hours from the Dundalk bus station for just a few dollars each way, and it’ll take roughly an hour to arrive at the primary stop at the tourist station.
If you’re driving, it’ll be about thirty minutes. There are public parking lots in town—but try to get there early.
Carlingford is a reminder that one of the great pleasures of living in Ireland is how easily a beautiful day by the sea—complete with mountain views, castle ruins, a good meal, and maybe an ice cream—can become part of everyday life.
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