I’m enjoying a coffee on a spacious dining patio surrounded by huge, colorful murals—bigger than billboards—and decorative trees three-and-a-half stories tall, strung with lights. It’s a grand setting.
The cityscape around me is made up of upscale shopping malls, tall office buildings, and luxury apartment towers. The streets are dotted with Mercedes, BMWs, and Land Rovers. As I explore the neighborhood, I see very little litter and no graffiti.
I’m in Villa Morra, the most affluent district in Asunción, Paraguay’s capital, about four miles east of the city’s historic Centro.
So, what’s the big deal, you ask? You’ll find places like this all over the world—affluent neighborhoods in capital cities that offer a polished environment for the wealthy.
And you’re right. You will. But the big difference here is the value you get for your money. You don’t need to be rich to live here.
My recent steak dinner cost less than $15. The comfortable boutique hotel where I’m staying costs less than $45 a night. A 15-minute Uber ride in a newer, air-conditioned car costs less than $5. And the service I receive almost everywhere is first-rate.
As I check out the real estate market, I find attractive, well-located one-bedroom apartments in amenity-filled buildings renting for around $700 a month or selling for under $100,000.
At the grocery store, I notice many whole foods cost far less than they do in the U.S. People who live here also tell me about their low utility bills and health insurance plans that cost as little as $35 a month.
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Asunción, a City on the Rise
Asunción (population 464,000) sits on the Paraguay River across from northern Argentina. The greater Asunción metropolitan area, known as Gran Asunción, includes the capital and several adjoining cities, covering about 390 square miles.
Just a few years ago, Asunción was one of the least developed and least visited capital cities in the region. But that’s changing. The Paraguayan government is implementing a series of reforms aimed at doubling the national economy within 10 years. So far, the plan appears to be on track.
While Paraguay’s economy is growing at a healthy pace, it’s doing so sustainably. The country has also built up reserves to help weather unforeseen economic shocks, contributing to investment-grade credit ratings from Moody’s and S&P. In a recent report, the IMF predicted Paraguay’s economy would remain resilient through 2026 and beyond despite global uncertainty.
Today, Asunción is poised to become a regional business and logistics hub. As I travel through the city, I see evidence everywhere—construction cranes dot the skyline, representing hundreds of building projects, most of them apartment towers.
A Good Opportunity for Remote Workers
One government strategy for growing the economy is offering incentives—such as straightforward residency policies and a low tax burden—to attract foreign investment, talent, and other newcomers who can contribute to the nation’s economic growth.
In 2025, the population of Gran Asunción grew by around 58,000. That included opportunity seekers from elsewhere in Paraguay, neighboring South American countries, and farther afield, including a growing contingent of English-speaking expats.
The challenge for English speakers is that most local jobs require a good command of Spanish. And while wages are rising as the economy grows, local salaries remain well below those in the U.S. and Western Europe.
That said, relocating to Asunción is working well for thousands of expats who earn a living online, including remote employees, freelancers, and entrepreneurs. Working online allows you to provide goods or services in English to clients around the world while enjoying a lower cost of living in Asunción.
Paraguay’s residency process also offers flexibility in how you demonstrate financial solvency. Its simple 10-10-10 tax system (10% value-added tax, 10% personal income tax, and 10% corporate tax) applies to individuals and large companies alike. Additionally, Paraguay’s tax code offers even more favorable treatment for sole proprietors.
A New Frontier for Adventurous Retirees
While Asunción has an established community of English-speaking remote workers, it remains something of a frontier for English-speaking retirees—but one with clear practical benefits, including pairing retirement income from the U.S. or Canada with the city’s low cost of living.
Paraguay’s residency process is also favorable for retirees. While the monthly income requirement for obtaining residency in many countries continues to rise, Paraguay has no set minimum. Instead, applicants simply need to demonstrate they can support themselves financially.
Paraguay’s tax system is also largely territorial, meaning it generally taxes income earned within the country’s borders. As a result, most forms of retirement income, including pensions and Social Security, are not taxed in Paraguay.
A Chance to Own an Apartment
For expats with a nest egg, Asunción offers the added opportunity of homeownership. Even in upscale Villa Morra, I found studio apartments starting at around $70,000, one-bedroom apartments starting at around $90,000, and two-bedroom apartments starting at around $165,000.
English-Speaking Help Getting Set Up
Whether you’re moving to Asunción as a remote worker or a retiree, you can find English-speaking residency consultants, real estate agents, attorneys, and accountants to help you get set up in Paraguay. Among them is Caroline Casseli, an English-speaking Paraguayan residency attorney whom I spoke with.
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Living in Asunción’s Villa Morra Area
In Asunción, you’ll find the highest concentration of expats in the Villa Morra area, which includes the Villa Morra neighborhood and adjacent communities such as Recoleta, Manorá, Ykuá Satí, and Las Lomas.
Shopping
Impressive Malls
The Villa Morra area has two main business districts, each anchored by two shopping malls, along with restaurants, office buildings, modern supermarkets, large gyms, and multiplex cinemas.
One business district is on the eastern side of Villa Morra, in Recoleta, where the Villamorra Shopping and Shopping Mariscal malls sit side by side.
The other is on the northwestern edge of Villa Morra, with Shopping delSol in Manorá and the nearby Paseo La Galería.
Of the area’s four malls, Paseo La Galería is the most architecturally impressive. Along with its spacious shopping center, the complex includes two modern towers with a distinctive wavy design that house offices, a hotel, and residences.
To enter Paseo La Galería from the street, I walk past landscaped gardens with a small stream and fountain. Then I climb a series of steps beneath tree branches to a huge outdoor terrace lined with bustling restaurants that feels like a treehouse. I linger briefly—the food smells wonderful—before heading into the mall itself.
Grocery Shopping
In Villa Morra, most expats shop at modern supermarkets. During my stay, I made several trips to the large Superseis supermarket, two blocks from Shopping Mariscal, where I was impressed by the selection, quality, and service.
Each morning, the bakery rolls out six large metal bins filled with freshly baked bread, rolls, and pastries.
Whenever I ask an employee where to find something, they don’t simply point me in the right direction. They stop what they’re doing, walk me to the item, and then ask if there’s anything else I need.
Socializing
Meeting Other English Speakers
In Asunción, you’ll find several English-speaking expat meetups where you can make friends and trade notes about life in the city. The Asunción Times, an English-language online newspaper, organizes several groups, including an after-work meetup, a digital nomad group, a Bitcoin group, and a pub crawl. Once you meet a few people, you’ll likely hear about other, less publicized groups that cater to more specific interests.
Learning Spanish
Another way to meet people is by taking in-person Spanish classes at schools such as Hispana Paraguay or IDIPAR.
You can also attend the monthly Spanglish Social, a language and cultural exchange where expats learning Spanish and Paraguayans learning English come together to practice.
Inviting Friends Over
Many apartment buildings in Villa Morra include community gyms, wading pools, and barbecue areas that residents can reserve. As a result, it’s common for expats to invite friends over for a barbecue or drinks by the pool.
Malls as a Place to Socialize
Asunción’s climate is similar to Houston’s. But because it’s in the Southern Hemisphere, the seasons are reversed. January, the hottest month, averages highs of 92 F (33 C) and nighttime lows of 73 F (23 C). July, the coolest month, averages highs of 73 F (23 C) and lows of 56 F (13 C).
On hot summer days, the city’s large, air-conditioned malls provide a pleasant place to stroll, enjoy a meal, catch a movie, or chat over coffee.
Eating Out
Dining
Villa Morra’s restaurant scene includes international, contemporary, and fusion cuisine, along with Italian, Spanish, and Japanese restaurants. Still, the city’s standout dining experience is its steakhouses.
One excellent choice is La Cabrera, with locations in San Jorge, Paseo La Galería, and Shopping delSol. For a more affordable meal, I like Porchetta, which serves a variety of grilled dishes, including an excellent top sirloin steak, with locations in Shopping Mariscal and Shopping delSol.
Outside the summer months, daytime temperatures are often very pleasant, so many restaurants offer both indoor and outdoor seating.
About a mile west of Paseo La Galería is Paseo Carmelitas, a lively complex of themed bars and restaurants, with even more nightlife spilling onto the surrounding streets.
Grabbing a Bite
The malls are home to several familiar U.S. fast-food chains, including McDonald’s, Burger King, KFC, Pizza Hut, and Subway.
These days, though, I prefer whole foods, mostly meat and vegetables. In Villa Morra, I found two excellent options for a quick, inexpensive meal.
One is Ja-Vira, a chain serving traditional Paraguayan favorites in the food courts of several Asunción malls. A meal of pork ribs, salad, and sparkling water cost me less than $7.
Another good option is the deli section at Villa Morra supermarkets. Several offer freshly prepared dishes made with whole foods, and many have seating areas where you can eat. I enjoyed several deli meals, followed by sparkling water and coffee, for less than $5.
Getting Around Town
While staying in Villa Morra, I got around the same way many expats do—walking whenever possible and using Uber for longer trips across town. On hot, humid days, it’s also worth calling an Uber simply to arrive cool and comfortable.
Outside of Villa Morra, the Cost of Living is Even Lower
Some expats settle outside the Villa Morra area, where rent and food costs are even lower. They choose gentrifying neighborhoods between Villa Morra and Centro, or places like central Luque, a middle- and working-class city with many newer, yet modest, apartments about seven miles east of Villa Morra.
What Asunción Offers
As Mark Twain said, “History doesn’t repeat itself, but it often rhymes.” To me, Asunción in 2026 rhymes with the opportunities I witnessed living in Southern California in the 1970s, moving to western Washington in 1984, and then to Uruguay in 2006. It’s an opportunity to get in early and ride the wave up.
Success is never guaranteed. But there’s an excitement in taking on the challenge of starting a new life in a new place. No doubt you’ll encounter a few challenges along the way. But that can be part of the adventure—part of doing something new that makes you feel more alive.
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