Belle of the North: Exploring Portugal’s “Beyond the Mountains”

Bragança City
Medieval Bragança offers history, culture, and mountain charm in Portugal’s northeast.|©iStock/vicvaz

On a sunny summer day in the northeast of Portugal, I sit in the heart of town at an outdoor café on the plaza, by the old 16th-century cathedral. Sipping a glass of chilled white wine, I eagerly await my lunchtime tapas. As much as I love a large crisp green salad or a steaming plate of homemade pasta, there is something about being able to select a variety of goodies—toast points topped with tuna spread, a bowl of olives drenched in oil and garlic, savory cheese slices—for the same price as a single dish that always makes me feel like I’m getting something extra.

Getting something extra is what Bragança is all about. Nestled in the Trás-os-Montes (“beyond the mountains”) region of the country, it is the capital of the district of the same name and shares a border with Spain on the north and the east. Its population of approximately 35,000 includes 8,000 undergraduate and master’s students of the Polytechnic Institute of Bragança, resulting in a relatively youthful vibe to the city.

History

Stone walls and red roofs define Bragança’s old quarter.
Stone walls and red roofs define Bragança’s old quarter.|©iStock/Luis Fonseca

The area has been occupied over centuries, beginning in the Bronze Age. Celts, Romans, Visigoths, and Moors all played an important role in its history, as well as those in the neighboring Spanish region of Castile. The city is important as the seat of the House of Bragança, which provided the kings of Portugal from 1640 to 1910 and the emperors of Brazil from 1822 to 1889. Built on the ruins of an ancient fortress, the city’s medieval castle, as it now stands, with its fifteen towers and three gateways, was built over thirty years by command of King João I in 1409.

The beautifully preserved edifice features a military museum, occupying the entirety of the castle’s keep. Distributed over five floors, it features collections of weaponry used by the Portuguese Army from the 12th century to the first half of the 20th century, and an exhibition of objects gathered during the military campaigns that took place in Africa. Heading up to the top floor is worth it for the wonderful views of the city and the surrounding countryside.

Nature Lover’s Paradise

Rolling hills of Montesinho Natural Park near Bragança.
Rolling hills of Montesinho Natural Park near Bragança.|©iStock/Wirestock

Speaking of countryside, the region near the city boasts areas of dramatic beauty, among them Montesinho Natural Park, where red deer, wild boar, and Iberian wolves make their home. Ornithologists enjoy a field day (pardon the pun) here, observing more than 150 species of birds. Don’t miss the mountain village of Montesinho tucked into a hillside inside the park. Invisible until the last minute, you’ll find a colorful village of shale houses, two plazas with inviting cafés, and turismo rural options if you decide to spend the night.

Also in the park is Rio do Onor, a village on the invisible line of the border with Spain and the river with which it shares its name. Twin sister villages, Rio de Onor and the Spanish Rihonor de Castilla, form a single cohesive community of about fifty Portuguese and Spanish residents.

Douro International Park features impressive cliffs in the Douro River Canyon, and the unique rock formations in Geopark Terras de Cavaleiros offer stunning views.

Tradition and Culture

Plaza da Sé, Bragança’s central gathering place.
Plaza da Sé, Bragança’s central gathering place.|©iStock/mehdi33300

A large part of Bragança’s history and culture revolves around the presence of its Jewish community since the Middle Ages. At the time of the expulsion from Spain in 1492, Bragança is said to have welcomed about 3,000 refugees, a move which boosted the city both economically and socially as silk factories, tanneries, handicraft production, and shops developed.

This past can be explored in a visit to the Center for the Interpretation of Sephardi Culture in the Northeastern Trás-os-Montes, located next to the tourist office on Rua Abílio Beça, 103. Displays detailing the Jewish experience are compelling, particularly the Inquisition exhibit on the top floor. Texts, video, image projection, and Sephardic music combine to immerse the visitor in a tragic period of history, when hundreds of “New Christians”, the term denoting those who purportedly converted to Christianity, were persecuted for their faith.

Segueing from Judaism to paganism, near the castle is the Iberian Museum of Mask and Costume, housing an important collection of masks, costumes, and props related to the identity of the people of this region. Festivities originating during Roman times when Saturnalia was observed have evolved into today’s Festas dos Rapazes, or “Feasts of the Boys,” when young men known as Caretos run and play through the streets wearing wildly colorful traditional costumes. Diabolical outfits are worn in February on the Saturday before Carnaval, when Caretos engage in activities culminating in the “Burning of the Devil” at the castle. Several villages of Trás-os-Montes, such as Lazarim, participate, as well as some across the border—for example, from León and Zamora.

There’s a surprisingly long list of places to see here. Unfortunately, the Abade de Baçal was closed for renovation when I visited, but it is expected to reopen October 2025. The former 18th-century bishop’s palace became a museum in 1915 and features collections of archaeological and numismatic items, paintings, sculptures, and more.

If you’re an Ansel Adams fan, you may like the Georges Dussaud Photography Centre, with 200 of his black-and-white photos focusing on Trás-os-Montes culture. Graça Morais Contemporary Art Centre is a visual arts delight, and bibliophiles take note: at the Solar dos Teixeiras/Fundação/Os Nossos Livros, the Dr. Aguedo de Oliveira Library possesses one of the most valuable collections in Northern Portugal, focusing on the main areas of Law, Economics, Finance, Politics, and History.

Dining and Entertainment

I was delighted with my simple tapas lunch on the plaza, but adored my dinner one night at Solar Bragançana in the same locale, at Praça da Sé, 34. You cannot go wrong whether you sit inside the restored 18th-century manor house or outside on the candlelit garden patio. The menu is extensive, as is the wine list. Specializing in game meats (pheasant and chestnuts, anyone?), the generous portions are artfully presented on the plate.

Of course, the Portuguese, and the Trásmontanos in particular, do have a fondness for wild boar, and if you care to indulge, the highly rated Taberna do Javali may be perfect for you. There’s also a Michelin-starred restaurant option in G Pousada, while Restaurante La Bela Época is actually the number one rated TripAdvisor eatery in town, and it offers vegan options.

Many hotels offer free breakfast. For the balance of your day, expect to spend €30–50 on meals, with a mid-range restaurant meal costing about €15–20.

In addition to entertainment and activities during festival times, the Municipal Theatre has regularly scheduled musical events.

When to Go, How to Get There, How to Get Around, Where to Stay

Exploring Bragança’s past at the castle’s Military Museum.
Exploring Bragança’s past at the castle’s Military Museum.|©Tricia Pimental

The busiest month of the year in Bragança is August, when the Festas de Bragança takes place, a five-day party featuring food, drink, handicrafts, music, and entertainment culminating on the municipal holiday of August 22. If you prefer a calmer experience, aim to visit in September and October, which is deer rut season, and the main activity takes place in Montesinho Natural Park. Or perhaps plan a trip for November when St. Martin’s Day is observed, to celebrate the chestnut harvest with a glass of Água-pé.

The primary routes into the city are the A4 and IP2. Driving from Porto takes just over two hours, and from Lisbon, less than five. Once in Bragança you are also in proximity to major Spanish cities such as Zamora (one and a half hours) and Salamanca (two hours).

Traveling by bus is another option. The main bus station in Bragança, located at Av. João da Cruz, serves as a hub for regional, national, and international bus routes.

Walking is an excellent way to get around much of town, so if you’re up to it, do ask at the tourist office for the Percurso Pedestre Urbano, a four-kilometer walking route that will take you to a number of the sites mentioned above, plus a few more, including a handful of churches. Uber and taxis are available. There are also electric bikes for rent off Rua dos Batocos, a two-minute walk from the Municipal Library on Praça Camões 54. For more info and other locations, visit this site. Finally, if you’re going to venture out into nature or across the border to Spain, you’ll want to rent a car.

Accommodations range from hostels at €50 per night (including breakfast) to the Ibis chain to a great bargain in Hotel Exe São Lázaro, where I ended up spending five nights instead of one. You can read about it in this Substack post on Live Better Abroad. Of course, the luxury of Pousada Bragança (€200 per night) is undeniably a treat. Who doesn’t need a little pampering now and then?

The Brigantinos, as the locals refer to themselves, are quite proud of their city and all it offers. It’s certainly a whirlwind for the senses. You may just find yourself agreeing with them.

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