Albania

Sarandë, Albania
Aerial view of Sarandë, Albania’s sparkling seaside city on the Ionian coast.|©iStock/JackF

Retire in Albania: The Affordable European Haven You’ve Never Considered

When I first visited Albania more than 15 years ago with my Albanian husband, I had no idea what to expect. At the time, I was living in Santorini—one of the world’s most iconic destinations—and stepping into a country few people knew much about. My husband’s stories of growing up under communism had given me some insight, but I still wasn’t sure what awaited me.

I was immediately captivated by lush green landscapes that seemed to stretch endlessly and the genuine warmth of the locals, despite my language barrier. In Albania, hospitality isn’t just a gesture—it’s a way of life.

Albania’s Rising Appeal

Perceptions of Albania have evolved dramatically since that first visit. Once overshadowed by Mediterranean favorites like Greece and Italy, this hidden gem is now gaining the recognition it deserves. Travelers are increasingly drawn to Albania’s breathtaking landscapes, welcoming culture, affordability, and natural diversity—from the rugged mountains of the south to the crystal-clear coastline.

With the government actively investing in tourism infrastructure and addressing past issues like crime and corruption, Albania is fast emerging as a top choice for those seeking an affordable Mediterranean lifestyle.

How to Get to Albania

Nestled in southeastern Europe along the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, Albania shares borders with Montenegro, Kosovo, North Macedonia, and Greece. The country has three international airports: one in Tirana—the capital and largest city—and others in Kukës and Vlorë. Its compact size and strategic location also make it easy to access via nearby international airports in Podgorica and Tivat (Montenegro), Ohrid (North Macedonia), and Ioannina (Greece).

Beyond air travel, Albania offers convenient ferry connections westward to Italy’s eastern coast and southward to the Greek island of Corfu—less than an hour from the port city of Sarandë. Whether by land, sea, or air, Albania is becoming more accessible than ever, making it an enticing gateway to the Mediterranean.

Albania’s Past vs. Present: What Expats Should Know
Coffee culture thrives in Albanian cities—cafés are a daily ritual, not a luxury.
Coffee culture thrives in Albanian cities—cafés are a daily ritual, not a luxury.|©iStock/Dragoncello

From a turbulent past to a dynamic present, Albania’s evolution is nothing short of remarkable. Once ruled by the Ottoman Empire for centuries, Albania declared independence in 1912, only to have its sovereignty challenged in the aftermath of World War I. Thanks in part to U.S. President Woodrow Wilson’s intervention, Albania was spared partition and officially joined the League of Nations in 1920. After World War II, the country fell under the iron grip of Enver Hoxha’s communist regime—an era marked by brutal repression, extreme isolation, and near-total state control.

One of the most compelling aspects of Albania is its complex religious history, which stands in sharp contrast to the peaceful coexistence seen today. Under Ottoman rule, forced conversions to Islam were common. Then in 1967, Hoxha’s dictatorship went even further—banning all religious practices and declaring Albania the world’s first atheist state. Perhaps this history of imposed beliefs helps explain why religious tolerance runs so deep now. Today, the population is roughly 59% Muslim and 38% Christian, including a strong Greek Orthodox presence, with the remainder identifying as atheist. Pope Francis has even praised Albania as a model of religious harmony. And while technically born in present-day Skopje, Saint Mother Teresa—Albania’s most celebrated Christian figure—proudly claimed her Albanian heritage.

Most visitors to Albania will find themselves in the capital, Tirana—whether for a short stay or deeper exploration. Contemporary Tirana is a world away from its drab communist past. Where once stood rows of gray, utilitarian buildings, there’s now a cityscape bursting with color, artistic murals, and bold, unconventional architecture. Whether or not the visual style suits your taste, it’s undeniably a celebration of creative freedom—a powerful contrast to the repression of earlier decades. Even Enver Hoxha’s former villa—once a symbol of authoritarian rule—has been transformed into an artist’s retreat and library.

Once isolated and closed off from the world, Albania today welcomes millions of visitors. Under communism, censorship was absolute and basic freedoms—speech, movement, assembly—were nearly nonexistent. Now, Tirana buzzes with life, brimming with cafés, bars, and a thriving nightlife scene. The spirit of Albania is one of survival, reinvention, and an unshakable will to create a brighter future.

Why Retire in Albania?

With its Mediterranean climate, affordable cost of living, rich history, and breathtaking landscapes, Albania offers retirees a unique and budget-friendly European lifestyle. Whether you prefer coastal tranquility, mountain adventures, or vibrant city life, Albania delivers—all at a fraction of the cost of Western Europe or North America. Let’s explore a few of its increasingly popular cities.

Gjirokastër: The City of Stone
Ottoman-era architecture lines the hillside streets of Gjirokastër.
Ottoman-era architecture lines the hillside streets of Gjirokastër.|©iStock/Elenakirey

Nestled in southeastern Albania, Gjirokastër is one of the country’s most enchanting towns and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site. Known for its distinctive Ottoman-era architecture, the town’s abundance of stone buildings and winding stairways have earned it nicknames like “The City of Stone” and “The City of a Thousand Steps.” Its cobblestone streets, traditional homes, and imposing hilltop castle transport visitors to another era.

As the birthplace of my husband, Gjirokastër holds a special place in my heart. The town’s crown jewel is its sprawling hilltop castle—one of the largest in the Balkans—dating back to the 12th century. Once used as a prison during the communist era, the castle now houses the “Cold War Tunnel,” a massive underground bunker built during Enver Hoxha’s rule, as well as the Museum of Arms, which showcases weaponry from prehistoric times to World War II.

Beyond the dramatic fortress, Gjirokastër charms with its atmospheric bazaar, winding streets, and classic Ottoman homes featuring wooden balconies. The town is dotted with artisanal workshops, quaint cafés, and the historic Bazaar Mosque, built in 1557.

What captivated me most was life in my husband’s small village just outside the town center, where a tight-knit community thrives on self-sufficiency. Families raise livestock, grow their own vegetables, and craft homemade bread and cheese. Bartering for goods and services is still common here. Despite their hard work, people make time for daily rituals like gathering for coffee or a glass of raki, Albania’s beloved anise-flavored liquor. This blend of physical labor, fresh food, and strong social bonds may help explain why Albanians enjoy a life expectancy above the European average—around 75 for men and 80 for women.

Life here is peaceful yet vibrant. Across Albania, there’s a slower pace of life, with a focus on community, outdoor living, and fresh Mediterranean cuisine. While far from the bustle of Tirana, Gjirokastër offers everything you need—from markets and medical clinics to sweeping mountain views. The cost of living is impressively low: you can rent a spacious stone house with panoramic views for under $400 a month, and dining out remains pleasantly affordable.

The Allure of the Albanian Riviera
Palm-lined promenade and sparkling shoreline in vibrant Vlorë.
Palm-lined promenade and sparkling shoreline in vibrant Vlorë.|©iStock/Thomas Faull

Blessed with a stunning coastline along the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, Albania’s Riviera is an emerging Mediterranean gem. Stretching from Vlorë to Sarandë in the south, the region boasts picturesque beaches, historic landmarks, and an affordable lifestyle.

The seaside town of Sarandë—Albania’s largest port city—is considered the jewel of the Riviera. With its crystal-clear waters, vibrant beach scene, lively nightlife, and relaxed promenade, it offers a laid-back Mediterranean vibe. After the fall of communism, a lack of job opportunities led to significant emigration. But in recent years, Sarandë has seen a revival as Albania tapped into the area’s untapped coastal beauty and historic appeal to promote tourism. The town has been revitalized with improved infrastructure and a growing number of hospitality businesses.

Be sure to visit the 14th-century Lekursi Castle for panoramic sunset views, including vistas of the nearby Greek island of Corfu. Perhaps the most notable landmark is the 6th-century Monastery of the 40 Saints. In fact, the town’s name—Sarandë—means “forty” in Greek, reflecting its deep Greek cultural ties and still-significant Greek population.

Unlike overcrowded Mediterranean hotspots, Sarandë retains its authenticity while offering modern conveniences. Expats enjoy fresh seafood, local wines, and beachfront cafés at a fraction of the cost of other European destinations. Sea-view apartments rent for around $400–$500 per month, and dining out typically costs under $15 per meal.

Set on the Ionian Sea, Sarandë blends scenic beauty with a relaxed atmosphere and modern amenities, making it one of Albania’s most desirable retirement spots. The town is becoming increasingly multicultural, with a growing expat population—especially from Western Europe.

Just north of Sarandë, at the crossroads of the Adriatic and Ionian Seas, lies Vlorë, Albania’s “gateway to the Riviera.” Known for its beautiful beaches, coastal charm, and urban convenience, Vlorë is a vibrant yet laid-back city where past and present meet. It was here that Albania declared its independence in 1912, a milestone commemorated at the city’s Museum of Independence. The revitalized Lungomare promenade—lined with stylish cafés, seafood restaurants, and swaying palm trees—is the city’s social hub. With fresh seafood, affordable real estate, and sweeping sea views, Vlorë is fast becoming a top choice for retirees.

A scenic drive south of Vlorë along the winding Llogara Pass brings you to Dhërmi, a postcard-perfect village perched above the Ionian’s turquoise waters. Dhërmi offers tranquility and classic Mediterranean charm—without the crowds or the price tag. Whitewashed stone houses and blue-domed churches cascade down the hillsides, while pristine beaches sparkle below. Local tavernas serve up grilled octopus, kebabs, meatballs, and hearty vegetable dishes. Nearby Llogara National Park offers hiking trails with breathtaking views of the coast and mountains. With its unspoiled nature and peaceful rhythm, Dhërmi—and other small towns like it—may be especially appealing to retirees seeking serenity and a connection to the outdoors.

Tirana stays lively year-round, while coastal towns slow down in winter.
Tirana stays lively year-round, while coastal towns slow down in winter.|©iStock/Fani Kurti

Cost of Living

Albania uses the “lek” as its official currency. The euro is widely accepted, but you will generally get a better deal using the local currency. Be prepared to use cash throughout the country, as credit cards are not universally accepted. One of the most significant advantages of retiring in Albania is its low cost of living.

Compared to Western Europe and North America, retirees can live comfortably for about $1,000 to $1,500 per month for basic expenses. Prices vary by location and are approximations. Monthly utilities range from €60–€120, mobile phone plans start at €13–€18, and internet at €13–€20. One kilo of chicken fillets, potatoes, apples, and local cheese starts at €3.30, €0.50, €0.60, and €6, respectively. A dozen eggs start at €1.90, while a liter of milk starts around €1.10. A meal at an inexpensive restaurant ranges from €4.50–€15. A three-course meal for two at a mid-range restaurant costs from about €25–€60. A liter of gasoline is €1.80–€2.20.

Healthcare

Medical services are generally affordable and of good quality, especially in private clinics and hospitals available in major cities. While services at private facilities in Tirana are considered top-notch and quality care is available in Gjirokastër, services are more limited in the coastal towns. Healthcare services are being enhanced in areas such as Sarandë, in parallel with the increasing number of visitors and expats. For more specialized services, residents frequently go to Greece and Italy. The average cost for a regular doctor visit without tests is about €30.

Residency and Visas

Albania is known for its favorable visa policies for retirees. U.S. citizens can enter Albania without a visa and stay for up to one year, while most European Union citizens are permitted visa-free stays of up to 90 days within a 180-day period.

Long-term residency is also possible through various options. A long-stay visa (Type D) can be issued for a variety of reasons, including retirement, work, study, and family reunification. To apply for a long-stay visa, an applicant must submit an application to the Albanian embassy or consulate in his or her home country or in the country of legal residence—before entering Albania.

Residence permits are typically issued for one year initially and can be renewed annually. After five consecutive years of legal residence, a foreign citizen with stable ties in Albania may be eligible to apply for permanent residency.

What to Expect When Living in Albania

Expats are drawn to Albania’s calm lifestyle—but it’s wise to visit before committing.
Expats are drawn to Albania’s calm lifestyle—but it’s wise to visit before committing.|©iStock/zm_photo

While the official language is Albanian, many locals—especially the younger generation and those working in tourism—speak English to varying degrees. Still, learning a few Albanian phrases and using translation apps is a smart move, particularly in rural areas where English is less common.

If you’re considering a move, it’s worth spending an extended period in Albania to explore and live like a local before choosing a place to settle. Village life can be quite rustic, so it’s important to do your due diligence when it comes to the services and comforts that matter most to you. While infrastructure is improving in larger towns and cities, rural areas may still lack reliable utilities or updated facilities.

Urban centers like Tirana are lively year-round, offering abundant nightlife, cultural events, and dependable public transportation. Coastal towns such as Sarandë buzz with activity in summer—but in the off-season, they can feel like a different world. Sarandë’s population swells to around 300,000 during peak season but drops to about 35,000 in winter, with many restaurants and shops closing until spring.

Albania is a member of NATO but not yet part of the European Union. It is widely regarded as a safe destination, with a 2024 crime index comparable to Canada. Petty crime like pickpocketing can occur but is less common than in larger European cities such as Paris or Barcelona. In more remote areas, law enforcement resources may be limited. While violent crime rarely affects tourists, there have been isolated incidents involving organized crime. As always, it’s smart to stay aware of your surroundings and know where to access emergency services in your area.

Albania: A Place That Captures the Heart

Albania is a country of contrasts—where ancient history meets modern living, and where breathtaking landscapes blend with a casual, welcoming lifestyle. Whether you’re drawn to the stone streets of Gjirokastër or the coastal beauty of the Albanian Riviera, this emerging destination offers retirees a unique opportunity to live a rich, fulfilling life—without the high costs found in many other Mediterranean countries.

It’s heartwarming to me how much has changed since my first visit to my husband’s homeland. And yet, the things that first captured my attention—the natural beauty and the warmth of the people—remain wonderfully unchanged. Today’s Albania is a powerful testament to the resilience and enduring spirit of its people. It has a special je ne sais quoi, if you will—one that will undoubtedly capture your heart, just as it did mine.

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