From New York to Co. Mayo: Finding Home in the West of Ireland

From New York to Co. Mayo: Finding Home in the West of Ireland
Open fields and wide skies capture the slower pace of rural County Mayo.

By Brittany Rutledge

My journey from a suburban town just outside New York City to the rural west coast of Ireland was anything but straightforward.

When I first arrived in Cork to study, the language, “Irishisms,” took some getting used to. The Irish speak English… but not the English you’re used to.

On the train, you’d overhear girls talking about “your man,” aka that guy. I’d hear compliments on an outfit, and the response was always, “Cheers, Penneys!”—which I thought meant “cheers, thanks” in Irish for the first few months, until I realized they were saying it was from the beloved bargain clothing store, Penneys.

Later, I moved to Dublin for a job. There was still a cultural learning curve. The Irish have a wholesome way of saying they like you by “slagging you”—poking fun through banter. I arrived dressed for New York business: work skirts and a blazer, only to realize everyone else wore jeans and a jumper. They’d ask me where my interview was. I eventually gave in. The only time suits came out was when the CEO was on-site.

For nine years, my then-boyfriend (now-husband) and I spent any weekend we could escaping the bustling city of Dublin and its traffic for a quieter, more relaxing time in Ballina, County Mayo—located on the banks of the River Moy, nestled in the foothills of the Ox Mountains. Americans often refer to it as “Bal-lean-ah,” but locals call it “Bal-in-nah.”

I spent my early summers earning my keep on the bog—an area where the Irish harvest peat, or turf, which is then used as heating fuel. Rural homes in the west of Ireland are often heated by ranges that warm the boiler and the whole house. Sure, there are newer homes with air-to-gas heating, but is that as much fun as something you worked so hard for? Imagine paying a few hundred bucks for a full year of heating. A fine turf shed, stacked perfectly, becomes a proud asset of any rural home—and a visual reminder of the winter ahead, as it empties out wheelbarrow load by wheelbarrow load until the cold, dark days pass and summer comes. Then the cycle repeats itself.

“It’s Time to Come Home”

When COVID hit, and the offices closed, my in-laws called and said, “I think it’s time to come home.” We had no idea that leaving Dublin for Ballina that day would be the start of a whole new chapter. Like so many, we were filled with uncertainty—but we were officially home in the west of Ireland.

That year, the weather brought blue skies and warmth—a miracle from the Irish weather gods. We made the most of it, exploring every bike trail we could. The hiking in County Mayo is breathtaking, from Achill to Pontoon, from beaches to Downpatrick Head.

It’s known for its food, too. And not just the Irish cuisine you might expect. A famous “local” Chinese dish is called Chicken Dry Hot & Spicy. It’s what I crave most when I’m over in New York City. It’s also recently been put on the map by Instagram and TikTok sensation Garron Noone, a local.

For travel across the rest of Europe, we have Knock Airport in Mayo, with daily direct flights to the UK and other popular holiday destinations—just under a two-hour drive to Shannon Airport and three hours to Dublin. Take a two-hour flight, and you can land somewhere magical, like the German Christmas markets or Paris in the spring.

Just one of the many joys of living in Ireland… with Europe on your doorstep.

Editor's Note: Think you need Irish ancestry to get an Irish passport? Think again. In Passport to Ireland, we reveal five legal pathways Americans can use to qualify—even without Irish heritage. One of them could be the key to your EU passport. Watch the video now and see if you qualify.

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