5 Things I Love About My Life in Split, Croatia

5 Things I Love About My Life in Split, Croatia
Seaside swims, ancient ruins, and mountain views—life in Split has it all.|©iStock/Lazy_Bear

My life in Split began with a two-month vacation from my busy corporate job in London. And I simply never left.

I’ve now lived in Split on Croatia’s sunny Adriatic coast for four years. I’ve been lucky enough to swap office life in the UK for working from my laptop wherever I go. And that’s allowed me to travel widely all over the country and its remarkable islands.

What first drew me to Split was the stunning coastline and great weather, but what made me stay was the awesome community vibe, incredible history, and the wealth of outdoor activities on offer. Since moving here, I’ve taken up paddleboarding, via ferrata, and windsurfing, as well as going on regular hikes and bike rides. And there’s still so much to explore!

Here are five reasons I love my life in Split:

1. Living History

Diocletian’s Palace is still alive with shops, homes, and hidden courtyards.
Diocletian’s Palace is still alive with shops, homes, and hidden courtyards.|©iStock/majaiva

One of my favorite memories of Split is a violin concert in the atmospheric, ancient Roman cellars. In the summers, we sip wine on the steps of an old pagan temple while being serenaded by local musicians. There’s even an ancient Egyptian sphinx brought here 3,000 years ago.

In Split, history is just part of everyday life. The city was founded around 300 AD as the retirement home of Emperor Diocletian. Large parts of his palace are still standing today. It always amazes me that people still live inside it. Shops, bars, and apartments are all nestled within 1,700-year-old stone walls.

Living in such a historic city means there’s always something new (or old) to discover. Tucked away down a side street, I recently came across Split’s tiny Jewish Synagogue, built in the 1500s by Jewish refugees fleeing the Spanish Inquisition. It’s one of the oldest Sephardic synagogues in Europe still in continuous use.

The town of Solin, just outside Split, is another ancient treasure. You can wander freely among the Roman ruins, including a huge amphitheater that once seated up to 18,000 people. In the summer, it’s a regular venue for open-air concerts and gladiator reenactments.

2. The Sea on Your Doorstep

Just five minutes from home, the Adriatic is my daily swimming spot.
Just five minutes from home, the Adriatic is my daily swimming spot.|©iStock/xbrchx

Split has some of the most beautiful beaches and crystal-clear turquoise sea I’ve ever seen. Most mornings, I walk down to the beach five minutes from my house for a swim, some meditation, or yoga. I’ll often run into friends while I’m down there. And that quickly turns into an impromptu frisbee or beach boules session.

Often, I’ll hop on my paddleboard and cruise down the coast to a nearby island or fishing village. My favorites include the unspoiled island of Solta and the pretty little town of Stobrec. Sometimes I’ll even head down there with my laptop and catch up on some work from my favorite cliffside cafe overlooking the sea.

Split gets pretty windy in the off-season, so there are ample opportunities for watersports like sailing and kitesurfing. This year I’m learning to windsurf just down the coast at Omis. There’s no better feeling than zipping along between the craggy mountains of the Cetina canyon and the island of Brac.

3. Marjan Forest Park

Locals escape the summer crowds in shaded trails and quiet coves on Marjan.
Locals escape the summer crowds in shaded trails and quiet coves on Marjan.|©iStock/gollykim

Just a 15-minute walk from the Old Town is Marjan Forest Park. It’s hands down one of the best parts of Split. This forested peninsula jutting out into the sea is covered with well-shaded trail running and biking paths.

The south side has sheer rock faces that are popular with climbers, but it’s a fairly easy walk up to the highest viewpoints, where you get amazing views over the city of Split and the nearby islands. They’ve also recently built an observation tower up here and a botanical garden that’s well worth visiting.

The beaches here on Marjan are a lot quieter in the summer months, especially Bene at the tip of the park and Prva Voda on the north side. It’s where all the locals hang out when the town gets too hot and crowded with tourists. I love heading down there with a good book and a hammock.

Marjan is also a cultural hub for the city. Last year, I was lucky enough to catch an outdoor ballet performance put on in the forest by the Croatian National Theatre in Split. And once a year, the city celebrates Marjan Day with free live music from local bands.

4. Adventures from Sea to Summit

Weekend ferries lead to quiet islands and wild adventures.
Weekend ferries lead to quiet islands and wild adventures.|©iStock/MarekKijevsky

The first time I saw Split was from the air, and I was struck by its spectacular setting between rugged mountains and the sparkling Adriatic Sea. Most weekends I’ll head out of town for a trip to a nearby island or a hiking adventure.

Just a 30-minute drive from the city is the small mountain town of Sitno Gornje. From here, you can hike up Mosor for incredible views of Split and the islands. On the way back, we usually stop off at the mountain house for a restorative bowl of goulash and a shot of cherry liqueur.

A little further down the coast you have Biokovo, the second-highest mountain range in Croatia, which is great for advanced hikers. Last winter I spent a weekend with friends at Plitvice National Park marveling at the frozen waterfalls and lakes surrounded by snowy forest. Other memorable excursions include climbing Croatia’s highest peak, Dinara, going rafting on the Cetina River, and regular visits to the gorgeous island of Vis where they filmed Mamma Mia 2.

It’s so easy to hop on a ferry and see somewhere new. Croatia has 78 inhabited islands, with hundreds more that are completely untouched. Lastovo stands out for its wild, authentic beauty and incredible dark skies (it’s an officially designated International Dark Sky Park). The Kornati Islands are famous among sailors for their stunning hidden coves and lack of permanent roads or settlements. Not all of them are easy to get to, but once you’re there, the only option is to relax and unwind until the next ferry comes.

5. Vibrant Advent Celebrations and Quirky Local Festivities

Split’s Riva glows with Advent lights, music, and mulled wine.
Split’s Riva glows with Advent lights, music, and mulled wine.|©iStock/Jelena990

Although it can be rainy and cold, Christmas and New Year are one of my favorite times to be in Split. Everyone is out on the streets celebrating and dancing the night away. Cute Advent markets take over the main promenade, the Riva, and city squares, serving up piping hot mulled wine and tiny fried donuts called fritule.

New Year’s Eve is the biggest party of all, with fireworks and a huge free concert featuring legendary Croatian bands and DJs. There’s also a NYE pre-party for kids and families around 3 p.m., complete with its own countdown. Everyone brings bottles of wine and rakija, the fiery local fruit brandy, to toast together on the streets. Then you go back home to rest and get ready to do it all again at midnight!

The wider Dalmatia region is also packed with weird and wonderful events throughout the year. Last year, I represented Team GB at the World Olive Picking Championships on the island of Brac. Although we didn’t win, it was an awesome opportunity to learn more about traditional Dalmatian culture and the hard work that goes into making olive oil. The nearby island of Hvar even has a dormouse festival, which I haven’t yet plucked up the courage to visit.

About a 40-minute drive from Split is the town of Sinj, which holds a famous equestrian contest called the Alka every August. It’s a colorful tradition that commemorates the battle of Sinj in 1715, when 700 Croatian soldiers held off 60,000 Ottomans. Horse riders dressed in 18th-century uniforms gallop at full speed carrying a lance and compete to spear a small metal ring hanging from a rope. The winner is awarded a golden ring and bragging rights for the rest of the year.

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