I am aware that a certain class of traveler prefers a hotel room with sleek fixtures and modern finishes–preferably with a laptop-friendly desk. But I am no fan of a hotel that could be anywhere in the world. I understand why these places exist. And if I’m stuck at the airport overnight, then sure... I’ll take the expedient, you-know-what-you’re-getting option.
And let me be clear: I’ve stayed in plenty of hotels like these when traveling with kids for swim meets or booking a place off the highway on a long, cross-country journey. They serve their purpose.
But when I have my druthers—and when I’m somewhere interesting in the world—I’d always rather stay in a hotel borne of its surroundings. Portugal is full of such properties.
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The Pestana Vintage Porto Hotel—that’s it in the picture above—starts with the yellow building on the right. But what you don’t realize from the outside is that all those shophouses on the left—they’re part of the hotel as well. In expanding and renovating, they kept the fronts and built modern hotel rooms behind all of them.
So from the outside, it looks like a full block of historic houses facing the river—each with its unique front. But from the inside, you’re in a modern hotel. It’s quite clever, in fact, how they managed to connect the whole thing, taking into account that, originally, the homes all had floors at different heights. So there’s a bit of rolling your suitcase up and down ramps as you head to your room.
Well worth the trouble, though, as the tall narrow doors on the front-facing rooms open onto the original homes’ wrought-iron balconies. At less than $300 a night, this hotel puts you right in the thick of Porto’s offerings—an easy walk to most of the city’s sites—and it provides a high-end experience (with an excellent breakfast each morning). Well worth the price.
In the tidy town of Evora in southeastern Portugal’s Alentejo region—home to a well-preserved Roman Temple of Diana, a Chapel of Bones constructed of the skulls and bones of thousands of monks, and excellent wines—the Pousada Convento Evora inhabits a restored 15th-century convent. The shared areas are lovely—with overstuffed chairs and a small bar where locals were gathered when we visited. An enclosed courtyard pool area outside would be great in warmer weather. Beware the low doors to the rooms—my husband is 6 foot 1, and he had to bend a good foot to get into ours. But the ceilings are high once you’re through the door... and the old monks’ quarters, while not luxurious exactly, are tidy and comfortable—and in no way cookie-cutter. Rooms start at a reasonable $99 a night.
Knights’ armor... thick stone battlements... fireplaces with roaring flames... in Obidos, up high at the top of the walled town, you can stay in a proper castle at the Pousada Castelo Obidos. And, except for the fact that it was chilly in March, I’d recommend it—for a night.
During the day, tourists overrun this steep, cobblestoned community—because it’s a jewel-box of a walled town filled with cafes, bars, restaurants, and shops selling cork purses, linen tablecloths, and books. But come nightfall, it empties out, and you have the place to yourself. It’s a treat to wander the narrow streets as the sun sets, enjoying the views out over the rolling hills below. And you have the run of the castle as a guest—it’s a bit like staying overnight in a museum. The stone walls are a good two feet deep, and at the end of long hallways you’ll find suits of armor standing guard. Rooms start at $191.
Portugal cares deeply about its history—it’s one reason I like it so much. Look here at this list of pousadas—old world hotels—scattered throughout the country. But that’s only one reason to give Portugal a try. It’s at the top of our list of the world’s best retirement havens because it has plenty to recommend it beyond the fact that it’s beautiful and offers great value—in everything from hotels to day-to-day living. To learn more about all Portugal has to recommend it, check out our upcoming Portugal Summit.
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Portugal, Spain, Italy, France, Greece... You’ll find gorgeous, culturally rich cities and towns and beautiful sunny beaches. You can enjoy a high quality of life—yet a surprisingly low cost of living. Starting at $2,500 a month, a couple can live well. With more, you could live large.
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