The Four Faces of Ajijic, Mexico

My husband Michael and I had heard a lot about the thriving expat community of Ajijic on the shores of Lake Chapala, Mexico. So when offered a housesit there we jumped at the chance. It was perfect for escaping the Canadian winter and allowed us to explore one of Mexico's expat communities.

Once we had our first sit booked, it was relatively easy to find a few more in the same area. In total we did four, all in Ajijic but in four very different areas.

Our first sit was in the Villa Nova area and was just a 20-minute walk into the center. It was a huge casa with a large green, lush courtyard, completely enclosed by high walls. It was also the first time we had seen a boveda, a large domed ceiling built entirely of bricks and quite the masterpiece.

We soon got to know the neighborhood, while walking the dogs and met a few of the neighbors too. 

Next was our favorite sit by far, high up the hillside in the beautiful gated community of Lomas de Ajijic. Beautifully landscaped and maintained, the community is made up of a variety of homes, big, small, modern and traditional, all with at least a partial view of Lake Chapala. 

Our home for the next few weeks was tucked away behind colorfully, clothed bougainvillea walls. At first glance it appeared quite small, until we got inside. As in many Mexican homes you never can tell what's behind the walls. 

It was a beautiful four-bedroom home, with stunning views of Lake Chapala and the hills beyond. 

©iStock/Gerardo Martinez Cons

Our gracious hosts took us on a tour of the town, introduced us to some of their favorite restaurants and gave us their car to get around. It was fabulous, although driving Ajijic's cobblestone streets takes a little getting used to. 

We also had access to the community's clubhouse and pool, so it was a win-win all around, although the pool was a little chilly for us. 

Due to its elevation, Ajijic has a moderate climate all year round, which means cooler nights in the winter months and not so much of the blistering summer heat as found in other parts of Mexico. We loved it there; it was very quiet and clean, thanks to the hardworking maintenance staff.

Our third sit was in another gated community, Puerta Arroyo in West Ajijic. This was 

further from the center (about a 40-minute walk) but it was also closer to some of the stores that cater to the expat community. Plus, everything we needed could be found along the main road through town, without having to go into town. 

It was a great location in a good community; but it lacked the wonderful view of the previous sit. The house was of typical Mexican style, built with a small central courtyard as its focus. 

Our final sit was right in the center of Ajijic, with a more local flavor. Everything we could possibly need was just a short walk away, including supermarkets, produce stands, butchers, fish markets and many of Ajijic's best restaurants. Plus all the taco stands that set up shop along the roads and plazas. Our neighbors were friendly and courteous and warmly greeted us with a cheery "buenos dias" when we took the dog for her walks.

The produce stands of Ajijic sell delicious fresh fruit and vegetables.|©Michael Bauche

This house was also hidden behind high walls, with a couple of sunny courtyards. It was also a wee bit noisier. The Mexican people love their fiestas and with it being close to the holidays, there were lots of parties going on. We were even treated to a live mariachi band one night, so we stayed up listening to the show.

Ajijic itself is an expat heaven. The cultural center offers plays, concerts, and various workshops where you can learn to paint or make pottery. There are also groups for budding writers and painters, birders, and so much more. A wide selection of restaurants offers every type of cuisine you can think of, and there are all the support services you could ever need.

We stayed for two months and got a good look at four very different faces of this vibrant Mexican town with its strong expat influence. Each area and home had its pluses and minuses, with the biggest commonality being the friendliness and charm of the Mexican people.

Editor's Note: Yvonne Bauche, creator of The Ultimate Guide to Free Stays in Luxury Accommodation…All Over the World, has been a full-time housesitter since 2012. She and her husband, Michael, have traveled the world, staying in top-class accommodation in the world’s most desirable locations for free.