Distant Cousins, Long-Lost Land: Tracing My Irish Heritage

Tracing My Irish Heritage
Churches like Limerick County’s oldest cathedral, above, hold family records dating back centuries.|©BENEDEK/iSTOCK

On a crisp September morning in County Limerick, I carefully guided my 84-year-old mom down a mud-rutted path in the heart of Ireland’s rolling farm country.

"This is it, Mom," I said with pride, stepping aside to let her absorb the moment. Before us was a lush, green pasture, its morning dew illuminated by the bright sun.

"This is the place," she said, trembling. "I know it."

Two hundred years ago, this serene field was bustling, with several cottages and a barn—a compound, I discovered through genealogy research, once leased by my ancestors from a local landowner.

"We’re home, Mom," I said, giving her a long, tight hug.

A Family Reunion Long in the Making

My wife Karen and I are digital nomads, traveling and working remotely after selling everything in 2018. Mom visits us abroad annually, and her interest was piqued when we mentioned a trip to Ireland.

Growing up, I knew my great-great grandparents, the Hurleys, emigrated from Ireland.

At family picnics, I gravitated toward older relatives spinning "good ol’ days" yarns. I was fascinated by their vivid recollections and deep connection to European roots, something I couldn’t wrap my head around as a fourth-generation American.

Other than having corned beef and cabbage on St. Patrick’s Day, my immediate family wasn’t exactly basking in the glory of our Irish heritage.

That changed after Ancestry launched. My mom uploaded a family tree that she’d cobbled together herself, had her DNA tested, and gave me my own DNA kit for my birthday.

She was intent on discovering her family history.

Six weeks before her arrival in Ireland, I decided I would surprise her with a visit to the place our ancestors came from… I just had to find it.

Finding Our Family Tree With a Genealogist’s Help

I tried keeping it a secret while working with a genealogy service. When they hit an unsatisfying dead-end, I contacted an independent genealogist on Thumbtack.

To help the new researcher, I asked Mom if she had any notes to share, divulging I was further researching our roots. That’s when I learned of the all-important Aunt Mary Notes.

These were the notes my mother had taken during a conversation with her aunt decades prior. That critical conversation connected names, marriages, and children that didn’t appear in Ancestry.com hints.

Armed with this info, the new genealogist learned our current tree was pointing to the wrong Hurley family line. She uncovered the correct names, the county, the family farm location, and one of two churches for us to explore on Ireland’s west coast.

The Old Hurley Homestead

The coastal town of Lahinch’s history includes Vikings, clan clashes… and the author’s ancestors.
The coastal town of Lahinch’s history includes Vikings, clan clashes… and the author’s ancestors.|©ROBINSONBECQUART/iSTOCK

Karen and I set up camp in the western beach town of Lahinch, an hour from Limerick. The day before Mom’s red-eye from Boston to Shannon, we drove through southern County Limerick looking for the specific plot leased by the Hurleys, as well as two Catholic churches they may have attended.

The researcher’s notes were spot on, pointing us to land in the region of Cahernarry (now spelled Cahernorry). After driving along the curviest, narrowest roads I’ve driven, locals whizzing past with the skill of F1 drivers, we found the exact spot. Buildings no longer stand here, but the map from the 1800s was a match to the empty plot before us.

"I can’t believe this," I muttered while standing in the shin-high grass pasture. A wave of goosebumps engulfed me.

With our first box checked, we set off to locate the churches. Finding the right church—and historical records—would validate the genealogist’s research and link us to our Irish heritage. Now, I knew we were close.

Face to Face with the Past

After picking my mom up the next day, we headed to visit Donoughmore Church.

As we crossed the narrow, stonewall-lined street to the church, we encountered two gentlemen chatting: an older, grizzled fellow wearing a hi-vis vest standing astride his bicycle and another who looked like he just might be Terry, the church sexton.

"Terry?" I called.

"Yes," he said. "Let me guess. You’re here researching your Irish roots."

I chuckled. "It’s that obvious?"

"Only reason people not from these parts visit us," Terry said. "So, what family name are you looking for?"

Hurley, I told him, and asked if we were in the right place. Terry pointed to the man standing beside him, astride his bicicyle.

"Well," he said, "this right here is Bill Hurley. You’re likely related."

Reuniting With Long-Lost Relatives

My mother was emotional… and so was Bill, once he learned we were from Connecticut. "My mother moved to Connecticut, and that’s where she passed," he explained.

Terry, with his extensive knowledge of the church records, revealed that Bill was likely related through a distant cousin. After Bill hugged us goodbye, we asked if Terry would help us find our relatives in the records. Apparently, it was far from an unusual request. He guided us to a sitting room inside the church used exclusively for heritage seekers like us. He brought out several flimsy, softbound books with the dates of christenings and weddings.

My mother turned page after page… finding the names passed on by the genealogist. All of them.

We were indeed sitting in the same church and walking the same land that my ancestors once roamed.

"Terry, do you have the original records?" I asked, though I figured it was a longshot. He held up a finger and left the room. When he came back, he placed two worn, leatherbound books in front of us.

The typewritten books validated the research, but the thick tomes allowed us to touch history. Mom’s hands were shaking as she scoured the lists, scanning family entries with her fingertips. When it was time to go, she didn’t want to leave. "Can I keep it?" she said, hugging the oversized book.

"Only if you want to stay in the storage room!" Terry laughed. "But I’ve got another surprise." Just down the street, he told us, lived a cousin more closely related than Bill.

"Would you like to call on him?" he asked. "Of course," my mother said. Beaming, our trio followed Terry down the road. My mission was accomplished… my mom had found her far-flung family.

Find the Right Genealogist For Your Heritage Journey

There are two options when selecting a genealogist: a genealogical service or an independent researcher.

Services offer packages (i.e., six hours of research) at fixed prices. When the time’s up, they stop researching and another package is required to continue.

Meanwhile, independent researchers charge by the hour, usually at lower rates, and you can set a fixed number of hours in advance.

Search "Genealogist for ____ heritage" to find targeted options for the country you’re researching. You can also use freelance platforms like Thumbtack, Fiverr, and Upwork to locate independent researchers, read reviews, and find the best match for your needs.

Before making your pick, ask if your family and friends know a genealogist. A warm referral could lead to a discount and deeper engagement in the project.

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