“You’re crazy!” my friend screamed at me.“You don’t follow a machete-wielding Mexican into the jungle alone!” another chimed in. “We’ll never find the body,” (my personal favorite) was another among the wave of comments from friends and family.
All this excitement over a little video.
I had disappeared into the heart of Cozumel Island, in search of the Lost Temple of Ixchel. Ixchel is the Mayan goddess of fertility, healing, and childbirth, and the deity of Cozumel. Now, don’t get me wrong. I understand their concerns.
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After all, the video started with Carlos striding ahead of me, machete in hand. And I agree 100% that as a general rule it’s a bad idea to follow a machete-wielding man into the jungle alone. But it was Carlos.
The Man Behind the Machete
We became friends when I interviewed him for an article about the Mayan Bee Sanctuary he had built. It honors what may be the oldest beekeeping relationship on earth, between the Maya and the little stingless native bee, the Melipona. I still remember the first time I saw him.
He was sitting quietly, chiseling away at a chunk of white limestone rock he’d found in the jungle, shaping it into the beautiful face of his Mayan ancestors. He is a gentle soul. An artist, jewelry maker, carver, and the best Mesoamerican sculptor in the Yucatán.We clicked immediately, discussing Maya culture and the ruins we had visited in different countries. I’m a big fan, having visited ruins across all countries in the Maya world.
From Mexico at the northern tip of their world, through Belize and Guatemala, down to the southernmost ruins in Copán, Honduras.
Off-Limits to Tourists: The Lost Temple of Ixchel
Carlos wanted to share an ancestral treasure most people will never see: The Lost Temple of Ixchel. These ruins are on private land inaccessible to the average Joe. So off we went to the remote ranch deep in the jungle. Entering the ranch, it was a slow ten-minute drive along the barely visible, overgrown track, with vines scraping down the sides of the truck. Eventually, we arrived. To nothing.
As far as my eyes could see, there was nothing. Then I followed Carlos into the jungle. Alone. It was an incredible experience. Without speaking, we walked quietly so as not to scare wildlife. It worked. We spotted an elusive wildcat. An ocelot, said Carlos.
And when we reached the ruins, a family of pigs and I came face to face and scared the hell out of each other. They took off one way and I the other, which had Carlos in stitches! This day was one I’ll never forget. People are still jealous I got to go, and they probably never will. Because this is a spiritual place, not a tourist attraction.
I’ve been writing about Maya culture for IL readers for years, but this was the first time a Maya friend took me somewhere no article could.
How One Photo Shoot Won a Big Government Contract
That was eight years ago, and we’ve remained friends since. So when he reached out asking if I would help build a portfolio of his work by photographing all of his sculptures around the island, I jumped at it. Hopping in a dune buggy, we covered beaches and jungle, private land, and top tourist attractions. Hundreds of photos later, we narrowed it down to 10 beautiful images. These were submitted to the tourism board for a big contract. He won. This contract saved him. It supported his family and extended family for two years throughout COVID.
And if I’m honest, I’ve never been more proud of my photos in my life.
That was then, when he was a carefree artist sitting quietly sculpting in the jungle. Now, he is the Governor of Indigenous Peoples for our state, Quintana Roo. He helps entire communities, not just in our state, but throughout Mexico.
This morning at coffee, he told me about his recent trip to Chihuahua to meet with indigenous leaders from the Americas. Some journeyed from as far away as Colombia and Argentina; others came from north of the border, like the Sioux and Apache. It was fascinating to hear it all.
Years ago, International Living gave its readers a piece of advice I’ve never forgotten. Make friends with locals and get invited in, because “it’s amazing what you’ll learn once you step over a threshold into the private world tourists never see.” That advice was printed back in 2005. Twenty years later, I’m living proof that it works.
I’m thankful for a friendship like this…
It leads to some truly amazing experiences. At the end of November, I’ll be on another one.
Carlos invited me to a private ceremony at the home of a Mayan priest. In a tiny village no one has ever heard of, about two and a half hours south of Playa del Carmen, I will see a ceremony for lost souls.
Part of the old ways that have almost been lost to time.
I feel grateful to have such a wonderful person in my life. Even now, years later, people laugh about it. On a recent trip home, my cousin wrapped his arms around me and said: “Followed any machete-wielding Mexicans into the jungle lately?” You know what…I probably will! It was one of the best decisions I ever made.
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