Ávila, Spain: Medieval Magic and Modern Comforts

Ávila, Spain
Ávila rises from the plains like a stone sentinel, wrapped in centuries-old walls.|©iStock/bpperry

Speeding along the road, I gaze out at the Nevada desert. Or so it seems. Scrubby brush and tan and sandy stretches go on for miles. Enormous boulders strewn about resemble the playthings of giants, reminding me of those in the Serra da Estrella region of Portugal. In the distance, imposing majestic mountains stand silently watching. But all this is about to change, as a city arises from the flats.

This is Ávila, the capital and most populated municipality of the province of the same name, located in central Spain in the autonomous community of Castile and León. Less than an hour and a half from Madrid’s International Airport, Ávila has been called “The City of Stones and Saints” because of its marvelous fortified city wall, beautifully preserved medieval architecture, and its focus on religious mysticism.

It is home to examples of civil architecture that include fortified houses and palaces that were essentially built in the latter years of the 15th century and during the 16th century. Most of them are located inside the walls and follow the layout to form a second inner line of defense. They’re built onto the Wall, or stand in plazas near the town gates. I’m eager to have a close-up look at it all.

History

In pre-Roman times, the city was called “Obila,” meaning “high mountain,” an apt title for a settlement situated on a plateau located more than 3,700 feet above sea level. Visigoths and Moors took turns occupying the area until it was reconquered around 1090 by a Frenchman, Raymond of Burgundy, who, through marriage, became the son-in-law of King Alfonso VI of Castile and León. Tradition holds that it was he who hired another Frenchman and an Italian to begin construction of the city’s legendary Wall.

The Middle Ages saw a strong Jewish presence until an Inquisition decree by King Ferdinand II and Queen Isabella (the latter born in the province of Ávila) was implemented in 1492. The Jews left their mark in various locations in town, among which are two former synagogues, the Old Jewish Tanneries of El Segundo, and the Jardin de Moshé de León, a small park which pays tribute to the Jewish mystic who wrote the work of the Kabbalah known as Sefer ha-Zohar while living here.

Walls, Turrets, and Timeless Beauty

Plaza Mayor, the city’s lively historic heart.
Plaza Mayor, the city’s lively historic heart.|©iStock/bpperry

The Walls of Avila are considered the best example of Romanesque military architecture in Spain and a unique example of medieval European architecture. They have a perimeter of 1.5 miles, 87 turrets, 9 gates, 3 smaller gates, and encircle an area covering more than 81 acres.

In addition to the legendary Wall, paramount among the sites to visit here are these religious venues:

  • The Cathedral is regarded as the first Gothic cathedral in Spain, and is the best example of a fortress-cathedral in all of Europe. Its apse, known locally as El Cimorro (“The Cedar”), is set in the walls and is the most imposing turret of the east wall. One of my favorite features of the Cathedral is the choir stall, which rises high in the sanctuary, complete with the grand seats once occupied by the monarchs of Spain during services. The tomb of the former Bishop of Ávila, Fernández de Madrigal, known as El Tostado, is here as well. The nickname comes from the tanned skin of a ploughman, which was his father’s profession, and which he had adopted as a last name.

  • The Real Monasterio de Santo Tomás (“real” meaning “royal”) is one of two monasteries in which Queen Isabella spent much of her life, the other being the Monastery of Santa Ana. It contains the tomb of her son with King Ferdinand: Juan, Prince of Asturias and Girona. The church has three magnificent cloisters, one of which was the Summer Palace of the Catholic Monarchs, and which is now home to an Oriental Art Museum. The Inquisitor General of the Kingdoms of Castile and Aragón, Tomás de Torquemada, lived and died here. Plaza Mayor, also within the city walls, bears his name as well.

  • The Basilica of San Vicente is the main example of the Romanesque style in Ávila. Inside, there is an inscription in Gothic lettering on the gravestone of the Jew who, according to tradition, built the original church in the 14th century after having been converted to Christianity.

  • Iglesia de San Pedro is built in the Romanesque style, with Renaissance, Baroque, and Plateresque elements, and is located near the Alcazar Gate and Plaza Mayor in Old Town.

There’s no shortage of famous non-religious buildings to see here, either. An abbreviated list includes the Palace of Los Verdugo; Palace of Polentinos; Palace of Los Superunda; House of Los Deanes (the same as the Museum of Ávila); Tower of Los Guzmanes; and Palace of Los Serrano (a cultural center for events and exhibitions). The Palace of Los Velada is now a four-star hotel, while the Palace of Juan de Henao is a Parador de Turismo hotel, and the Palace of Valderrábanos is another hotel. You might also be interested in the Palace of Nunez Vela (City Hall); Palace of Bracamonte (headquarters for the Delegation of Culture of Castilla and Leon); House of Los Almarza (now a convent); and Palace of Los Dávila. (A hilarious Tripadvisor review indicates it might be a challenge to visit this last one.)

El Cimorro, part of Ávila’s Cathedral, doubles as a fortress turret.
El Cimorro, part of Ávila’s Cathedral, doubles as a fortress turret.|©iStock/JackF

Mystics, Monasteries, and Local Flavor

There’s no question that the Carmelite nun Teresa of Ávila, known as Saint Teresa of Jesus, figures prominently in the city. Her life coincided with the town’s “Golden Age.” Interestingly, her father came from a family of converted Jews. A large statue of her holds court across from Plaza Mayor by one of the gates to the Wall. The Museum of Santa Teresa de Jesus is located in the crypt of the Basilica of Santa Teresa, built on the saint’s birthplace. In the museum, you can view what were formerly nuns’ quarters, art, books, artifacts, and documents dating from the 16th century.

The saint is even connected with Los Cuatro Postes, a deeply rooted part of the city’s past. The current monument, consisting of four Doric columns with a cross fixed on a pedestal at its center, dates from 1566 but commemorates an event that occurred in 1157.

The Provincial Museum of Ávila (House of Los Deanes), mentioned above, gives insight into life in the past here, with artifacts, furniture, clothing, etc. There’s something about being inside an actual former residence that brings culture alive in a special way.

One of the hallmarks of Castilian food is its beef, so if you’re a meat-eater, you’re in the right place. The Chuletón de Ávila is a traditional dish, a large (about two-pound) T-bone steak from a native breed of cattle, grilled and served quite rare.

Sweet eaters should try Yemas de Santa Teresa, a mouth-sized treat made from sugar and egg yolks. There’s a similar confection in Portugal. The explanation for using only yolks is that historically, Roman Catholic nuns used the whites to starch the wimples of their habits. Not wanting to waste the rest of the egg, they created a sugary treat called ovos moles of Aveiro. Whatever the story, they are a classic Ávila experience.

Cultural events include, you guessed it, the Fiesta of Santa Teresa, which takes place each October 15. While I was in town, I saw that I had just missed one of the city’s eight annual classical music performances.

Traditional Castilian clothing on display at the House of Deanes Museum in Ávila.
Traditional Castilian clothing on display at the House of Deanes Museum in Ávila.|©Tricia Pimental

Where to Stay (and What to Eat)

Staying here won’t strain your budget. You can spend more than $200 a night at the upscale La Casa del Presidente if you want, but a friend from Florida stayed at Sofraga Palácio for about €115, and it was lovely. On a real budget, you could try Hostal El Pinar as we did for less than €60. It was definitely bare bones, but very clean, and the staff was friendly and professional.

Next door to Hostal El Pinar, each morning the café was packed with locals on their way to work. Always a good sign. They served up a tasty breakfast of potatoes topped with fried eggs and great coffee for €3,50.

Siglodoce, located near the Wall on the Plaza Catedral, is recommended for traditional Castilian food and gluten-free options. Open seven days, 12-5 and until 10:30 pm Monday, Friday, and Saturday.

We stopped into Gloria Bendita. Located conveniently close to Los Cuatro Postes, it has mixed reviews online, but we were delighted. Four pieces of bread with olive oil topped with manchego cheese and a small bowl of spicy olives, accompanied by a liter of bottled water, a draft beer, and a glass of red wine, came to €10. Open 9 am to 1 am.

Getting Around Ávila: Smart Travel Tips

Ávila is less than an hour and a half northwest of Madrid’s Adolfo Suárez Madrid–Barajas Airport (MAD). If you don’t rent a car, you can take a bus and arrive 50 minutes later at the Estación de Autobuses, about one mile east of the historic city center.

If you prefer to go private, companies like Zonetransfers.com offer cars with a driver, providing door-to-door service from any location in Madrid to Ávila.

Moovitapp.com can help you get around within the city. Taxis are available as well.

Time and budget permitting, if you’ve flown to Madrid, it would be a shame to miss Portugal, at least Lisbon, if you haven’t seen it. Lisbon’s Humberto Delgado Airport (LIS) is only an hour and fifteen minutes from Madrid’s airport, and there are 17-20 nonstops a day with round-trip prices in the €135 range. Check easyJet, Ryanair, and Air Europa for schedules.

I found that not many locals spoke much English in the city, so I definitely have a translator app at the ready. There was, however, a fair amount of written material at sites in both English and Spanish, and some audio guides offered multiple languages.

I also did not find a proliferation of souvenir shops like I’ve come to expect in most cities. If you’ve been to Sintra, Portugal, you know you can’t walk ten feet (maybe five) without finding another place to spend your vacation cash. Not so here. I was determined to buy a particular item, a black baseball cap, and was thrilled to find a large store just outside of the Cathedral, and picked up a hat for the modest price of €8,90. I was glad I bought it then, because for all the strolling about we did over two days, there was a noticeable lack of other such locations.

At the tourist center, we purchased the ÁvilaCard. While some places were very inexpensive (€2 to enter the Teresa Davila Museum), we paid to gain access to the Wall, the House of the Deanes, the Cathedral, etc., and there are no senior discounts. So at €15 per person, good for 48 hours, it’s a deal.

Leaving town, it would have been nice to see Sierra de Gredos Regional Park, but it was an hour southwest of Ávila, and our route home was to the northeast. That’s where the city of Segovia is located, and we spent a couple of hours there, not nearly enough. We’ll be back.

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