According to Apple Maps, I’m 100 feet away from my hotel. My taxi driver refuses to drop me off any closer—"Too narrow," he says, shaking his head and pointing to the street ahead, where tourists and locals alike linger, cigarettes in hand.
"Fine," I say. No hay problema. I tumble onto the street with my suitcase, packed with two weeks’ worth of clothing, and the taxi peels away, a yellow afterthought between narrow buildings. As I make my way up the street, glancing not-so-subtly between Maps and the street numbers to my right, I hear, in no particular order: Spanish. French. German. English, both American and British. Catalán.
If I close my eyes, I could be back in the place I’ve flown in from: downtown Miami, jampacked with residents hailing from every corner of the globe. Except I am, in fact, in an ostensibly rural village: population 14,000, doubly isolated on a small island that could be circumnavigated in under two hours, and perched in jagged northern mountains.
Ahead of me, a heavy door swings open. A woman with neatly coiffed hair peers from behind it, her eyes landing on me. "Megan!" she cries. "Benvinguda a Mallorca."
Despite their small size, the Balearic (pronounced Bahl-ee-ahr-ick) islands offer stunning variety for expats. You’ll find medieval mountain villages, ancient Roman trading centers turned seaside towns, a bustling capital city—all within thirty minutes of each other.
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Not sure if you want laidback island living, or the buzz of cosmopolitan Europe? The Balearics offer both. They’re the ideal place to test the waters of expat life. Just don’t be surprised if you end up staying for the long-haul. That’s a story American residents told again and again: Once upon a time, they were vacationers, but they found they didn’t want to leave.
Each island has a distinct character; Mallorca is bigger, anchored by the capital city of Palma. Home to half a million residents, it’s by far the most popular destination for expats—but beyond the city sit plenty of less-discovered gems, begging exploration.
Menorca, likewise, is home to turquoise coves and an ancient city little known to North Americans. But there is an English-speaking community paving the way for expats: the remarkably welcoming Brits.
I set out to explore both islands, with an eye to livability. The good news is: You’ll find plenty of options here. If you’re put off by the specter of isolation on an island, you needn’t be concerned.
Not only is it easy to hop between Menorca and Mallorca, but as a resident, you’re eligible for special discounts—up to 75%—on flights to nearby islands and to the mainland. The Palma Airport is Spain’s second-largest international airport; you can fly to Madrid in an hour or to Valencia even faster.
All around Mallorca, you’ll find pockets of expats: In the northeast, the beach town of Pollenca is popular among British retirees. In the southeast—along the coast from Arta to Santanyi—you’ll find German retirees. In Palma and its surrounding suburbs, like Calvia and Santa Maria, you’ll find an international mix.
I decided to explore a different area: the island’s diverse northwest coast—the so-called "Valley of Gold." This region, as I discovered, offers great diversity in lifestyle options… and good-value living as well.
Mallorca’s Northwest Valley of Gold
The Valley of Gold—named for its abundant orange groves—made the region rich in the 19th century. It boasts the same sort of sophistication Palma offers, but in a verdant, medieval setting.
Sóller: A Cultural Hub

First stop: the village of Sóller (pronounced soy-yay), a forty-minute drive from the Palma airport on roads that cut through scenery reminiscent of California: steep green mountains, warm-hued desert lowlands, valleys lush with citrus orchards.
Except these are dotted with centuries-old shingle-roofed stone homes. Picture the narrow streets of Barcelona’s El Born neighborhood, with the added polish of red stone buildings and ubiquitous green doors and shutters. Buildings here date to between the sixteenth and eighteenth centuries, and the closer you are to the town square, the older they get.
Catalonian restaurants fill the main square of Old Town Sóller. Tourists sip sangria at plaza tables, under the shadow of the Gothic Sant Bartomeu Church. In the midst of this is an orange vintage tram, which once transported oranges but now ferries visitors and locals to Port de Sóller (the nearest seaside town, 15 minutes away) and Palma.
Despite the tourists, the community feel is palpable. As the sun sets on the plaza, a bridal party emerges from the many cobblestone streets snaking from the square. Bride and groom parade to the church, the bride’s hand holding back her veil as the gentle sea breeze pulls at it. They’re taking bridal photos, and when the groom swoops her into a kiss, I—and the rest of the plaza—break out into applause.
A retired British couple a table over—well, really a few inches over, as the tables throughout Sóller’s restaurants nestle close to each other—lean over to comment on the beauty of bride and groom. According to them, it’s not only fiesta season—hence the colorful tissue paper strung between buildings—but also the summer of San Miguel, a time when temperatures across Spain spike back up to their summer peaks.
"Americans, in general, adapt very well to life in Spain," says 68-year-old Gina Vasquez, a longtime expat from Santa Ana, California. (Mallorca reminds her of home.) She lived in Madrid back in the ‘90s—where she often ran into movie stars—before eventually moving to Mallorca, where her husband’s family lived.
"North Americans live throughout the island," says Gina. "I started a Facebook group, ‘Americans on Mallorca,’ and I meet new people almost every day."
She’s a tour guide for her company, Visit My Mallorca, and recommends the career for social expats. "It helps me develop my interest in history, wine, cooking, event planning, et cetera," she says. All of that is available on this small island: from the prehistoric village of Talayotic, to multiple annual jazz festivals, to the costumed festival of Es Firó.
Gina’s daily life here is enviable. "When my kids were small, we never ran out of things for them to do," she says. "Through them, I explored [other villages]: taking them to karate classes in Santa Ponça, music classes in Calvia, swimming lessons and skateboarding in Capdella, football in Magaluf."
Now, she says, she and her husband like to watch the sunset in the Las Malgrats marine reserve, hike in the Galatzo estate, or stroll through Puig de Sa Morisca Archaeological Park.
Poets, painters, and musicians abound.
That array of activities—from swimming, to hiking, to exploring a historic estate—is exactly why Mallorca’s Valley of Gold is an ideal seat for the active expat. That vintage train will drop you off at the beach in a few minutes, and buses will ferry you wherever else you might want to go throughout the island—and later return you to your secluded home tucked in the hills.
With a population of only 14,000, you’ll be in good company as a retiree. Locals spend their mornings dining at cafes—you’ll find both chic and rustic options—and chatting with the staff and each other.
In the evenings, they retire to the Catalonian restaurants and sip sangria while the sun falls behind the mountains. If you wander through one of the winding cobblestone streets sprouting from the town square, you’ll likely come upon younger Mallorcans selling their wares—mostly pottery, an ancient island craft.
Because the Valley of the Gold is on the tourist track, English and German are both widely spoken. At restaurants, you’ll be handed a binder containing Spanish, Catalán, English, and German menus—and sometimes French, to boot. This is a polyglot, cultured crowd.
Good-Value Living in the Heart of the Valley of Gold
Yet Sóller’s real estate is remarkably good-value; while you won’t find dirt-cheap property on Mallorca, your money will go far. In central Sóller, you can buy a sprawling three-floor, four-bedroom home for €600,000 ($648,000). Go as little as a quarter-mile outside of Old Town—and the tourists it draws—and those prices will drop, though the housing quality won’t. Then there’s Port de Sóller, where a four-bedroom apartment with ocean views goes for €380,000 ($410,000).
You’ll also get historic homes in need of fixing-up for a steal. Outside of Sóller are plenty of 16th-century farmhouses up for grabs, scattered amidst the mountains.
"I wouldn’t recommend buying a place right away," advises Gina. "It’s best to rent and explore the island in different seasons, especially in summer and winter." In the winter, even popular Palma neighborhoods can become ghost towns.
While the cost of living has gone up in Mallorca in recent years, it’s not the beast it is in the US.
"US visitors always comment that life is much more affordable here," says Gina. "What we consider high, such as a monthly rent of €1,500 ($1,640), they think is cheap."
Indeed, €1,500 is the going rent for a one-bedroom apartment in central Madrid, where housing prices are well on the rise. €1,500 in Sóller? That’ll nab you a stunning two-bedroom in the very center of Old Town—giving you proximity to capital Palma, with the charm of a medieval village and the convenience of nearby beaches.
Gina’s electric bill tops out at €60, and her TV, internet, and phone plans for four people come to €100 a month, including the 21% VAT. As an autonomo, or self-employed professional, she also pays an additional €300 fee that will provide her a financial safety net should she be unable to work.
In Sóller, it’s reasonable for a couple to live comfortably on €3,000 ($3,280) a month, and that holds true for most of the island. There are exceptions: Palma’s Old Town, for one, or a village like Deia, which I found to be more expensive. But anything in between—those Goldilocks villages with less of a tourist presence—are wildly affordable compared to the States.
Valldemossa: An International Artists Retreat

A running theme in the Balearics: Small size belies international sophistication.
The villages of the Valley of Gold—particularly Valldemossa and Fornalutx—are no exception, thanks to their artistic bent. Though they enjoy isolation—getting to each one requires driving mountain roads—they’re still within easy reach of the big-city amenities offered in Palma, and the nearest village is never more than a 15 minutes’ drive away.
Plus, because they’re on the tourist path, locals are plenty used to speaking English—even though there are relatively few Americans here. These villages are ideal for the creative expat who wants the community and seclusion of an "authentic" small village… without having to live in the boonies.
Valldemossa (pronounced Vall-demoh-sa), the larger of the duo, is home to only 2,000 residents. Among Europeans, it’s well-known as an artist retreat, plus it’s a mere 35 minutes from Palma, and 15 from the nearest beach.
Perched in the mountains, the bus ride there is harrowing—though not harrowing enough to keep me from stealing a cat nap. Upon waking, the bus driver is gesticulating wildly at the cars blocking our entry to the village. He rolls down his window and speaks in rapid Catalán; assumedly there are expletives involved. (Note bene: Locals’ friendliness is contingent on decent driving.)
Despite the jarring introduction, Valldemossa proves to be a bustling cultural destination—the outskirts of which are ideal for the expat seeking recluse without the sacrifice of a uniquely creative culture. Local and expat painters alike open the doors to their studios, inviting visitors in from the hilly cobblestone streets. A small museum where artists sell their wares—today, it’s delicately painted ceramic candles—is tucked beside the Carthusian Monastery. Until 1399, the monastery was the monarchy’s summer palace, and that shows in its sprawl and time-worn stone turrets.
It’s sunny out, and tourists funnel from the narrow streets to the shade of the monastery’s labyrinth. Under towering trees, I walk the labyrinth slowly, distracted by the view. Citrus groves sheath the jagged mountains; green-shuttered farmhouses dot the valley.
It’s cliché to call Valldemossa "out of a fairytale"—but visit Valldemossa, and you’ll be spouting clichés, too. Duck into the Frédéric Chopin and George Sand Museum, and find Chopin’s sketches alongside his sheet music. (He’s celebrated in an annual festival held at the monastery.) Turn the corner, and find a dedication to Sand. Jorge Luis Borges lived here once too, as did the poet Rubén Darío. All were no doubt inspired by the landscape, both startling and serene, and the long history of this village, which was founded in 123 BC. That seems to be what’s drawn a small contingency of the rich and famous, too; Catherine Zeta-Jones and Michael Douglas are counted among the village’s part-time residents.
The housing options here tend to be more limited—after all, it’s a village of only 2,000—and home prices start at around €500,000. Those prices do shoot up quickly, though; sprawling villas abound in the €1 million range.
Mind you, in well-touristed Deia, a 15-minute drive northeast of here, housing prices start in the million-euro range. This is likely because it’s sandwiched between the two expat hubs of Sóller and Valldemossa, and also touted highly as an international artists retreat. But my advice is to skip Deia altogether. Yes, lovely sea views abound, but you’ll find them just as dramatic at less expense farther south along the coast.
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Fornalutx: Secluded and Family-Friendly

Fornalutx (pronounced forenuh–looch) is one of Mallorca’s few so-called German villages—but with an almost exclusively Spanish feel. (Most of the German expats have come over in recent years; on the island, there’s a running joke that Mallorca is the "17th Federal State of Germany.")
This is a particularly desirable spot for families. The community is close-knit and there are several international schools tucked away here. If you have a child and are worried about their integration into Spanish society, this, I am told, is the way to go.
Fornalutx is a mellow spot—and one with jaw-dropping vistas in nearly every direction. Locals take to the small town square, if it can be called that; it feels more like a sprawling restaurant terrace than anything else. But it lays out before you amazing views of the valley.
The village—a feast for the eyes itself—was founded by Moors in the Middle Ages, and subject to Catalán conquests in the 1200s. It retains a rustic, medieval feel thanks to buildings with rocky exteriors and hilly cobblestone footpaths. The Spanish government frequently recognizes the village for its conservation efforts; large vehicles, for example, aren’t permitted on the streets in order to preserve the cobblestones.
You can walk Fornalutx in its entirety in twenty minutes, from the Gothic church at its heart to the public washing house where locals hang their laundry. Yet bars and restaurants abound, despite Fornalutx’s diminutive size, and this is where locals gather to absorb the scenic surroundings.
If you’re considering a long-term stay in Balearics, and you’d prefer to avoid the crush of summer tourists in Valldemossa, Fornalutx may be your Goldilocks spot.
Here you’ll find, primarily, fincas for sale: parcels of rural land just outside the village, often including a farmhouse. These tend to be nestled in groves hosting medieval stone-built cottages, and run between €280,000 (for a one-bedroom) and €600,000 (for a three-bedroom).
Villas—many of which share the same dramatic views you get from the town square—start at €1.3 million and run all the way to €5 million. Large townhomes, meanwhile, run to similar costs, but start at €600,000.
I found lower prices—but many of the same benefits in beauty and sophistication—on the island of Menorca.
Menorca: The Hidden Gem of the Mediterranean
Joanna Young, a Briton who lived in Mallorca for forty-plus years, recently relocated to Menorca with her husband. When Covid-19 arrived in 2020, Mallorca’s thriving tourist industry disappeared… and with it, much of the background noise of the island.
"We started to appreciate the simpler things in life," says Joanna, "like quieter beaches, not rushing everywhere and being stuck in traffic jams."
So when tourists began trickling back into Mallorca, the couple picked up camp and moved to a quieter locale: Menorca’s east coast.
One study proclaims Menorca a new ‘Blue Zone.’
"We knew Menorca from short trips there over the years. It has an unpretentious, more authentic vibe—though there is a lot of serious investment going into boutiques, hotels, and restaurants," says Joanna. "We decided on the island’s capital, Mahón, because we still wanted to be able to walk to shops, bars, and restaurants, and just generally be in the local community." They bought a historic townhome in the city center and rented for a year while they fixed it up.
Menorca is Mallorca’s nearest neighbor at less than an hour’s flight away. (The thirty minutes in the air feels too short, the aerial views are that spectacular.) Menorca—as you might guess from its name—is smaller, both geographically and population-wise, than Mallorca. Mallorca is home to about a million residents, Menorca just a tenth of that, split primarily between two cities: Ciutadella (pronounced cue-ta-della) and Mahón.
But don’t think that means the island is a lesser version of Mallorca. It bears its own unique and ancient culture; indeed, its less-touristy feel is due to its status as a UNESCO biosphere and World Heritage site, which has prevented excessive tourist building. The mountains here are mild, quickly giving way to sea views, and here the homes are whitewashed with red roofs evocative of Greece.
Ciutadella: A City Centered on Holistic Health

Ciutadella is on the far western end of the island; Mahón is equally far to the east. Despite being on opposite ends of the island, they’re only a forty-minute drive, or hour-long bus ride, apart. And while both coastal cities have a population of about 30,000 each, Ciutadella offers a more mellow pace. If you’re seeking a laidback locale with the amenities of a big city—including a welcoming contingency of residents—look no further.
Emma Ivison and her husband, another British couple, moved to Menorca in the aftermath of Brexit. "It was originally a dream for retirement, but we finally thought, ‘Why wait?’" says Emma. "When we landed at the airport, our shoulders came down within an hour of being here. It’s the best move we’ve ever made: it’s such a slower pace of life, and we don’t lock the car or front door. Menorca’s the hidden gem of the Mediterranean."
Like Sóller, Ciutadella offers the expat a great deal of variety. The medieval sand-colored Ciutadella Cathedral dominates Old Town, as does the white, open-terraced St. Augustine Convent. The rest of the town has the feel of Old Town Nice: pastel townhomes and mazelike cobblestone streets. If you follow one of these paths, you may end up on a street zooming with Vespas—or find yourself climbing down stairs to reach the port, where dinghies bob and locals lounge at waterfront cafes.
Starting around three p.m. in Menorca, it’s siesta time. But at six p.m. on the dot, those dim storefronts fling their doors open. Spaniards tumble from the warm-hued townhomes lining the streets and flood the plazas, drinking and chattering at restaurant tables as the sky fades to a soft blue. Families walk their dogs and small children escape their strollers to chase after hawk moths. When the street lights flick on, they illuminate murals of serpents and—could that be right?—a glass-encased shrine to St. Nicholas.
There’s equal amounts of "tacky tourist" and authentic local shops, but there seem to be far fewer tourists than Spaniards. Expect to hear English, but no American accents. "Locals are wonderfully welcoming, even though our Spanish is poor," reports Emma.
There’s also an open-air mercado. Central Sóller had a market—specifically, a pescadería—in a one-time train station, too. But it didn’t boast this one’s beauty, replete in brilliant green checkered tiles. Fresh fruit is colorfully arranged in stands. Butchers chop meat to order.
Food and drink on Menorca, which I found to be of higher quality than in Mallorca, is slightly cheaper across the board, from supermarkets to the mercado to restaurants.
Life expectancy on the island is 82 years old, compared to the US’s 77. Some even proclaim Menorca a new "Blue Zone." The fresh fare makes it easy to see why. Indeed, there’s an emphasis on holistic wellness throughout the city, from vegetarian restaurants to smoothie shops to accommodations plastered in ‘70s-style macramé.
Central one-bedroom apartments in Ciutadella begin listing in the low €100,000s. More luxe options—think seaside villas with pools—reach to €1.5 million, but there’s greater availability of the former than the latter. Once you’re ready to buy property, advises Emma, it’s wise to get a good lawyer to review the sale. Property regulations in the Balearic Islands are strict, and properties in violation can subject the buyer to additional taxes or a fine.
I pass by some of those pricey seaside villas while walking a centuries-old trail. Back in the 1300s, knights patrolled the coast on horseback, wearing a 100-plusmile path around the island. It’s called the Camí de Cavalls—horse path—and has since been converted into a public promenade that jogs from dirt path to paved sidewalk, and dips past prehistoric sites and turquoise-ocean coves. (Menorca boasts twice as many beaches as Mallorca.)
Starting near Ciutadella’s picturesque port, the path snakes past the Punta Nati Lighthouse—once used to ward sailors off the island’s dangerous reefs—then leave Ciutadella behind. A mile in sit villas with views of sheer cliffs, a bright but mellow ocean—and a scattering of thousand-year-old buildings and starkly striped lighthouses.
It isn’t long before the path veers to a cove. Bushes conceal the steep cliff ’s stairs, and here, Spaniards sunbathe on their stomachs, cliff-dive from story-high platforms, and snorkel in the shallows. The water’s like the Dead Sea—so salty they can float on their backs without effort.
Joanna had advised that the best part of living here was exploring the island’s hidden gems—she still finds new spots, she confides—and that proves true. My greatest discovery is a casual restaurant built into a cliff, stone roof and all. Restaurant-goers can lean over the rail and spot minnows chasing the gentle waves.
The Ciutadella Cathedral and the St. Augustine Convent form the core of Old Town Ciutadella. In addition to nuns and a very adorable—if unfriendly—tabby, it also hosts a museum. Menorca’s history is a long one; the island is rich in Roman history and boasts one of the highest concentrations of ancient sites in the world, dating back to 4,000 BC.
Indeed, the Cathedral itself, established in the 13th century, was built on the ruins of an even older mosque, and houses ancient Roman artifacts from weaponry to pottery. Ciutadella is a Russian doll of a city; every time you think you’ve uncovered the final layer of history, there’s another.
Britain retained rule of Menorca for part of the 18th century, which may explain why the island still attracts so many expats from that country. Sure enough, at a portside restaurant, a kind British couple catches my American accent. The woman comments that she never runs into Americans here.
"You’re so far from home!" she quips.
That’s true. Getting here from the US requires a layover in Madrid. But the long travel time is well worth it for this rare combination of island life and access to all of Europe. Flights to the Spanish mainland run as low as $28, while you can find similar steals to elsewhere in Europe. Joanna takes regular advantage of the substantial discounts on air and sea travel offered to Balearic island residents. She’s able to visit her old friends in Mallorca easily, and they hop over to see her frequently, too.
Distance from the US has its upsides, too. This is the first place in Europe where I haven’t immediately been asked my thoughts about American politics. While there are Americans here, the expat community is truly international.
"The expat community is very welcoming," says Emma. "There’s a community of Europeans; the island is very popular with French, German, and Italian visitors. And we have an English cricket club."
I take this as proof that those looking to make the leap won’t have trouble growing a social circle. In fact, your friends might follow you.
"At first, our friends thought we were a bit crazy to leave for Menorca," says Joanna, "but now that they’ve seen our new lifestyle, they want to do the same."
A Summer Destination Primed for Year-Round Living
My last day in Menorca is also, it seems, the last day of the summer of San Miguel. On Sunday, I wake up to see that fall has arrived during the night. Crisp leaves have dropped from the trees lining Ciutadella’s main street, and those still on the branch are tinted a fiery orange. The temperature had dropped—albeit only from the mid-80s to the high-70s F.
Still, it’s enough to give a peek of the coming fall and winter months. Residents take to the streets in their jackets and stroll the plaza. Retired men drink espressos and gossip. A young man takes a break from his breakfast to soothe his baby to sleep in a pram. A child splashes in the central water fountain, while her grandmother looks on between gabs with her friend.
Leaves crunch. A chill ocean breeze promises winter. Here is a place that will carry you through the seasons of life.
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