Istria: Croatia’s Answer to Tuscany

Istria: Croatia’s Answer to Tuscany
Vineyards and hilltop villages give Istria its “Croatian Tuscany” charm.|©iStock/xbrchx

I’m sipping wine on the terrace as the sun slowly sets over the rolling vineyards and medieval hilltop villages. Tuscany? Not quite.

This is Istria, a diamond-shaped peninsula that juts out into the Adriatic Sea just to the south of Slovenia and the Italian city of Trieste. This region actually used to be part of Italy between the two world wars, and there are still many similarities between the two.

I’ve visited this region many times from my home in Split, Croatia. Every time there are more discoveries to be made and old friends to be met. Istria is popular among expats thanks to the great weather, laid-back lifestyle, and proximity to Italy and Central Europe.

Here’s what I love about Istria, and why I think it’s a great place to live.

Life in the Croatian Tuscany

Rovinj’s old town juts into the Adriatic.
Rovinj’s old town juts into the Adriatic.|©iStock/xbrchx

Life here in Istria moves at a slow pace. Charming small coastal villages like Rovinj and Poreč throng with tourists in the summer months, but there’s always the option to escape to a secret beach out of town that only locals know. Winters can be very quiet, with locals huddling at the handful of bars still open and the streets mostly populated by lazy cats sprawled on sunny windowsills.

Inland, the rhythms of life revolve around the land and its bounty. Cute hilltop towns like Motovun and Grožnjan are famous for their cultural scene. Motovun hosts a famous film festival with nightly open-air screenings every summer, and it’s also home to the top-rated Croatian winery, Roxanich, which is well worth a visit.

Grožnjan is known as an artist’s village with galleries, music workshops, and al fresco concerts filling the streets. Locals told me that many houses were abandoned after residents moved to the cities seeking better opportunities. In the 1960s, artists started arriving and converted the properties into studios and galleries. Every July, this small, characterful town is also home to the “best European small jazz festival,” according to the European Jazz Federation.

A Foodie Paradise

I love truffles. I was thrilled when I found out Istria is a world-class producer of white truffles, which grow in the forests around Motovun. Since then, I’ve been lucky enough to accompany local hunters and their specially trained dogs who sniff out the truffles hidden amongst the leaves in the fall months. The best part is heading home for a hearty meal of fresh pasta piled high with generous truffle shavings.

If you’re not a fellow truffle lover, don’t miss the fresh local seafood, wild asparagus in the spring, and slow-cooked game in the cooler months. And of course, it’s all washed down with local wines—crisp white Malvazija for seafood or truffles, and robust Teran red for richer meat dishes. Look out for local konobas, or “taverns,” which serve up generous portions of home-style grilled meats, seafood, and pasta dishes at a reasonable price.

A really special spot for me is Maestral restaurant in Rovinj, which has the most incredible views of the pretty old town and the harbor. I discovered it by accident on my first visit to Croatia in 2020 and lingered for hours over crisp white wine and fresh mussels, watching the sun go down.

Natural Beauty & Outdoor Living

Aerial view of Lim Fjord’s turquoise waters and forested cliffs near Rovinj.
Aerial view of Lim Fjord’s turquoise waters and forested cliffs near Rovinj.|©iStock/xbrchx

My favorite part of life in Istria is the stunning natural beauty right on our doorstep. You can swim on the most perfect beach I’ve ever seen and be strolling in vineyards within the hour. The landscapes here are breathtaking, especially at sunset.

There’s no shortage of active things to do here, too. The Parenzana trail is a former abandoned narrow-gauge railway line built in 1902 to connect Trieste in Italy with Poreč. It’s now a 76-mile cycling route that runs from Italy through Slovenia to the Istrian coast. It’s suitable for all abilities since you can just hire an e-bike for the day and do a short section. I especially recommend the Buje-to-Višnjan leg, where you can stop off at local wineries along the way for some refreshments!

Another of my favorite spots is the Lim Fjord just north of Rovinj. It’s a deep inlet with steep hills on either side that make it look a little bit like a Norwegian fjord if you really use your imagination. I had a great time kayaking through it, although you can also take a boat tour and stop off at a local restaurant for freshly harvested oysters.

Istria is a great base if you love to travel, with Slovenia, Italy, Austria, and the Croatian islands right on your doorstep. You can be skiing in the Austrian Alps or Italian Dolomites in a few hours, or hiking across the gorgeous car-free Brijuni Islands just off Pula.

Seasonal Rhythms

Truffle hunting is a fall tradition in Istria.
Truffle hunting is a fall tradition in Istria.|©iStock/katyenka

My friends who live in Istria joke that this region has two contradictory personalities. Summers are frenetic and crowded, while winters are quiet and slow. In July and August, the sheer numbers of tourists on the coast can be overwhelming. Going for your morning coffee or even doing your weekly grocery shop can be exhausting when you need to battle through crowds and wait in line just to buy milk.

Summer also brings crazy traffic, hot weather, and even hotter competition (and prices!) for parking spaces. I’ve personally noticed prices creep up significantly during the season, as most businesses need to make their entire income for the year in just two to three months. That means hospitality workers are rushed off their feet and everyone seems a little crankier than usual from the heat and hard work.

On the flip side, low season can seem unbearably quiet if you’re used to big-city life. I have several expat friends who make it work by spending part of the winter back home in the U.S., catching up with friends and family. It’s the time when most locals take it easy and many restaurants and bars close down. Small coastal places can become literal ghost towns with just one café bar open throughout the winter months.

Winter weather can surprise newcomers to Istria. Despite the Mediterranean location, winters here can actually be pretty cold due to the powerful bura winds that blow from the north. These icy winds can reach 60 to 125 mph. I have friends who’ve had parts of their roof ripped off or their boat capsized and sunk by this ferocious force of nature!

Settling In

Grožnjan’s cobbled lanes.
Grožnjan’s cobbled lanes.|©iStock/Goran Safarek

If you’re planning to stay long-term, there are a few things you’ll need to think about. Those with EU citizenship simply need to register themselves since they have the automatic right to residency here in Croatia. If you’re coming from the U.S., Canada, or other non-EU countries, other options include the digital nomad permit, which is valid for 18 months, or a 12-month visa for prepayment of rent.

The next challenge is choosing where to live. Istria is packed with beautiful coastal towns and hilltop villages. It can be hard to pick just one! The coast brings all the benefits of beach life balanced by calm, quiet winters, while inland villages usually have smaller populations and close-knit communities, which can make it harder to integrate.

You’ll probably need a car to get around since public transit is limited, especially inland, and Wi-Fi speeds can be variable outside of larger towns. Most young people speak English, but it’s a good idea to learn some Croatian, especially if you’re moving to a smaller or more remote village.

Rovinj, Motovun, and Grožnjan are popular with expats because they’re full of life in summer and have decent year-round populations. Pula is another hotspot for internationals since it’s a mid-sized city with more facilities, restaurant choices, and better infrastructure. Istria is mostly a region populated with small towns and villages, so for access to larger hospitals and more options, most head to nearby Rijeka. Named 2020 European Capital of Culture, this is Croatia’s third-largest city and has something of a gritty edge along with a strong arts, music, and cultural scene.

Cost of Living

Pula’s Roman amphitheater anchors the city.
Pula’s Roman amphitheater anchors the city.|©iStock/emicristea

Popular coastal towns like Rovinj and Poreč tend to be pricier due to the huge demand from tourists and other foreign buyers, and it can be very hard to find rentals that include the summer season.

If you’re planning to stay long-term, it’s better to buy or look at the ancient Roman city of Pula, where you can find a nice two-bedroom apartment close to the center for around $1,000 to $1,200 per month. Rentals tend to be much more affordable inland in places like Motovun, Buzet, and Grožnjan, where you’ll find a two-bedroom apartment for $700 to $1,000 monthly.

For a comfortable life in one of the inland towns or Pula, you can expect to spend $2,000 per month once you add groceries, transport, and eating out a few times a week. Moving to a more popular town like Rovinj or Poreč will take it up to $2,500 or $3,000. Dinner in a local konoba with wine usually costs me around $40–$50 per head, while a nice cocktail at a beach bar will be $8–$10.

Life in the Slow Lane

I’ve lived in many different countries and cities, including Spain, Argentina, and the UK. Every place has its charms, but here it’s the little things that linger. It’s the quiet rituals like starting each day with a swim at “my” cove, running into friends around town, and ending the day with a glass of Malvazija as church bells echo across the water.

Life in Istria might be slower than I’m used to, but it’s richer too.

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