The La Spezia Central Market seemed to go on forever. Stalls overflowed with just-picked produce, fresh seafood, handmade cheeses, and fragrant herbs. Each day, locals fill their baskets with the best of the region, and it’s easy to imagine ourselves doing the same—shopping daily, chatting with vendors, and deciding on dinner based on what’s freshest.
La Spezia, Italy, has risen to the top of our list as a potential location for our next retirement home. The port city on the Italian Riviera is in the Liguria region, known for its magnificent coast and proximity to the Cinque Terre villages.
The picturesque town is skirted by the Gulf of La Spezia, then spreads up the Ligurian Apennines and the Apuan Alps slopes. La Spezia has a rich history, gorgeous scenery, and convenient access to other locations in Italy and beyond.
The cost of living presents a significant advantage, approximately 49% lower than in the United States. Additionally, English is commonly used in commercial environments, and there is a welcoming community of English-speaking expatriates.
Life is slower than in larger cities like Rome or Milan. The streets and walls ooze culture and history. This beautiful Italian community flourishes in the Mediterranean lifestyle.
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Live Well for Less in La Spezia
We discovered La Spezia is generally more affordable than some other popular Italian destinations in the region, particularly when compared to the Cinque Terre villages.
The US is estimated to be 49% more expensive than La Spezia. The popular nearby Cinque Terre rents are 20% higher, and groceries are 5% higher. In Genoa, another popular Italian city nearby, rents are 11% to 15% higher, with groceries averaging 10% more.
| Average Living Expenses* | US$ |
| Monthly rent for a 900 sq ft furnished apartment in an expensive area. | 1179 |
| Monthly rent for a 900 sq ft furnished apartment in an average area. | 924 |
| Monthly utilities - water, electricity, and gas for two people in a 900 sq ft apartment. | 270 |
| Monthly high-speed Internet. | 32 |
| Monthly mobile phone – 4G network. | 11 |
| Monthly public transit ticket. | 40 |
| One liter of gasoline (0.26 gallon). | 2 |
| Monthly groceries for two, 2400 calories per person per day. | 470 |
| Entertainment for two— | |
| Dining out – a 3-course dinner in a mid-range restaurant with a bottle of local wine. | 90 |
| Cinema | 15 |
| Cocktail | 18 |
| Beer | 11 |
| Cappuccino | 3 |
*All numbers are the average costs in La Spezia, Italy, converted from Euro to USD at the exchange rate in July 2025 and rounded to the nearest dollar.
Daily Life in La Spezia
La Spezia has become a welcoming haven for expats, attracting individuals from various backgrounds looking for a slower-paced lifestyle amidst the Italian culture. The local community is friendly and accustomed to interactions with English speakers, making it easier for newcomers to integrate.
Expats enjoy sharing their experiences and often engage in local events, enjoying camaraderie. With various social groups and activities, La Spezia offers a vibrant environment where expats can form lasting connections and friendships.
Language
In La Spezia, English is widely spoken, especially in commercial areas, making it easy for expatriates and tourists to navigate daily life. The welcoming local community is accustomed to interacting with English speakers, allowing for smoother communication and fostering a friendly atmosphere where newcomers can feel at home.
Outside of commercial areas, English tends to be more commonly spoken among the younger population. Learning some Italian can significantly enhance your experience and help you connect more meaningfully with the local community.
Culturally Diverse
La Spezia has a rich cultural tapestry influenced by a maritime heritage and picture-postcard surroundings. The city is home to traditional festivals, vibrant markets, and Ligurian flavors like pesto and fresh seafood. Art and history thrive here, with museums and galleries celebrating the region’s past.
The nearby Cinque Terre (20 miles) attracts visitors eager to explore the colorful villages and breathtaking landscapes of “The Five Lands” on the Italian Riviera. La Spezia residents often gather in piazzas, creating a strong sense of community, which is very appealing to us. This blend of tradition, art, and a laid-back Mediterranean lifestyle creates a uniquely inviting atmosphere for locals and expats alike.
Food and Libations
La Spezia’s culinary scene reflects its coastal heritage and Ligurian roots. One of the most iconic dishes is pesto alla genovese, a fresh basil sauce made with basil, pine nuts, garlic, Parmigiano-Reggiano, and extra virgin olive oil. It’s served over trofie or trenette pasta. Seafood also plays a significant role in local cuisine, with dishes like the anchovies of Monterosso, which are cured and served with lemon, garlic, and parsley, showcasing the region’s bountiful catch.
Pairing these dishes with Cinque Terre wines, like Vermentino and Sciacchetrà, enhances the experience. For dessert, locals relish dried figs stuffed with nuts or the heavenly biscotti di Prato.
As we explored the streets of this port city, we discovered numerous eateries specializing in ethnic cuisine other than Italian. La Spezia’s culinary scene features a variety of ethnic restaurants. You can savor flavors from across the globe, including American, French, Thai, Indian, Japanese, Chinese, African, and Middle Eastern cuisines. These spots offer a break from traditional Italian fare. We were thrilled when we discovered an authentic Dim Sum restaurant. We ordered all our favorites, including a Chinese beer. It was a very special treat.
Visas and Residency
US citizens can stay in La Spezia for up to 90 days without a visa. Longer stays require a long-term visa or residency permit.
Obtaining a residency permit for La Spezia is essential for expatriates seeking a long-term stay in Italy. Non-EU citizens typically need a long-term visa to enter Italy before applying for a residence permit.
After arriving, you can submit your application at the local immigration office (Questura). Supporting documents usually include proof of accommodation, financial resources, and health insurance.
EU citizens enjoy greater flexibility, requiring only an identification document and registration with the local municipality.
Healthcare
Healthcare in La Spezia is accessible and generally of high quality, with public and private options available. The public healthcare system, Servizio Sanitario Nazionale (SSN), provides comprehensive medical services to residents, including general practitioners and specialists.
Taxes
Living as an expat in La Spezia comes with specific tax considerations. Italy has a residency-based taxation system, meaning residents, including expatriates, are taxed on their worldwide income. It’s crucial for you to familiarize yourself with Italian tax obligations, which can include income tax, municipal tax, and regional tax. It’s advisable to consult a tax professional familiar with Italian and expatriate tax laws to navigate these complexities.
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Why La Spezia is at the Top of Our List
La Spezia, nestled along the spectacular Italian Riviera, is our ideal retirement destination. We seek a blend of affordability, cultural richness, and beauty. With a cost of living approximately 49% lower than in the United States, we can enjoy a comfortable lifestyle on our Social Security alone.
The city offers a rich cultural experience, characterized by its historic architecture, picturesque seaside views, and vibrant local markets filled with fresh produce and regional delicacies.
The welcoming community, with many English-speaking expatriates, would make it easy for us to settle in and socialize. Daily life flows at a relaxed pace. There are endless opportunities for exploring the city streets and neighborhoods, as well as nearby attractions like the Cinque Terre.
La Spezia’s central location provides convenient access to other Italian cities and breathtaking coastal scenery. With its blend of culture, affordability, and a slower pace of life, La Spezia is an inviting choice for retirement.
Know Before You Go
Getting There
Reaching La Spezia is convenient via train or car. It has excellent connections to major Italian cities and nearby airports, making travel easy and accessible. The closest airport is Pisa, 40 miles away. From Pisa Airport (PSA), there is a direct train to La Spezia.
Getting Around
Thanks to its well-connected public transportation system, getting around La Spezia is convenient. The city offers buses and trains that make exploring nearby towns easy. Walking is also enjoyable, as the city’s compact layout allows for strolls through the streets, with many attractions accessible on foot. There are several pedestrian and bicycle-only squares and boulevards.
Where to Stay
La Spezia has many excellent hotels, B&Bs, and guest houses in the Centro Storico (Historic Center), the neighborhood where we suggest you stay. But we urge you to choose a vacation rental with a kitchen over a hotel if you plan to stay for more than two or three days. It’s the best way to live like a local and get to know the city, especially the incredible street markets where you can buy all the ingredients to make local delicacies and meet your neighbors for a cappuccino and pastry.
As we explored the Centro Storico, we fell in love with the intricate Art Nouveau architecture. We saw many with Case E Appartamenti Per Le Vacanze signs (Holiday Homes & Apartments for rent). There were apartment buildings with flower-covered balconies and colorful striped awnings. We were ready to move in.
Weather
La Spezia enjoys a Mediterranean climate with mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers. Average winter temperatures range from 40 F to 55 F, while summer highs can reach 80 F to 90 F. The region experiences over 3,000 hours of sunshine annually. La Spezia is perfect for outdoor activities and year-round exploration of the Italian Riviera.
Currency
La Spezia, like all of Italy, uses the euro. Credit cards and ATM cards are widely accepted. You can exchange other currencies at banks. Get cash from a bank ATM only. Standalone ATMs can have a low exchange rate and high service fees.
Final Thoughts
If La Spezia sounds like your dream retirement city, make a scouting trip. Spend a week—or two. Rent an Art Nouveau vacation rental. Explore the city and its neighborhoods. Live like a local and immerse yourself in the Italian Riviera way of life. You’ll know if it’s right for you when you buy that first handmade pesto and pasta at the street market.
Arrivederci e buon viaggio!
Get Your Free Italy Report Today!
Get Your Free Italy Report Today!
Learn more about Italy and other countries in our daily postcard e-letter. Simply enter your email address below and we’ll send you a FREE report – Italy: Europe’s Most Seductive Country.
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