Balancing a peaceful, laidback beach-town lifestyle with affordability, modern amenities, and easy access to city sights and excellent healthcare is no easy feat. I know—because I’ve spent a long time searching for just that kind of place, including five years with International Living. That’s why a recent discovery in Panama has me so excited.
Just beyond the glitzier hubs of Coronado and Gorgona, nestled in Panama’s Arco Seco region, I’ve found somewhere that quietly ticks all the boxes—without fanfare or fuss. But what San Carlos lacks in flash, it more than makes up for in charm and appeal for a certain kind of retiree.
You won’t find San Carlos splashed across glossy travel magazines or featured on every retirement list. That’s to your benefit—if you like somewhere with a small-town, local feel. It’s the kind of place you stumble upon by accident…and then find yourself warming to its quiet charm. The heart of the village is tucked off a modest turnoff just before a gas station—easy to miss unless you know it’s there. Still, it has a lot to recommend it.
The town sits along Panama’s Arco Seco (or “Dry Arc”), meaning it enjoys some of the best weather in the country—think warm days, sea breezes, and far less rainfall than other parts of Panama. This off-the-radar coastal town offers beautiful beaches, local character, and low costs—without the tourist crowds of its better-known neighbors.
If you’re looking for beach life in Panama, but with a rural, small-town vibe, put San Carlos on your list.
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San Carlos vs. Coronado: Same Sunshine, Less Development
Located about 20 minutes down the coast from better-known Coronado, San Carlos offers much of the same sunny beach lifestyle—but with fewer people, less commercialization, and more local flavor. While Coronado has grown into a bustling hub for expats and Panamanians alike—with malls, restaurants, and towering condos—San Carlos has quietly held onto its small-town feel.
That means that while you won’t find a Starbucks or a mega-supermarket on every corner, you will find fresh local produce, neighborly chats, and unhurried afternoons. The beaches share the same coastline, the weather is just as warm, but the atmosphere? It’s a world apart.
The small but vibrant mural in the center of town sums up exactly what makes San Carlos special. A colorful depiction of sun, flowers, turtles, pelicans, seahorses, and crabs, it captures the laid-back, simple, coastal pleasures of this unassuming place.
Not that I expected that. Truth be told, I ended up in San Carlos more out of convenience than curiosity. I was headed to Bocas del Toro and needed a place to stay for a few days—close enough to Panama City, affordable, and—fingers crossed—pleasant. I’d left it too late to find anything reasonably priced in nearby Coronado and stumbled upon a boutique hotel listed only on Airbnb. I wasn’t expecting much. But within a few hours of arriving, I found myself Googling real estate and mentally decorating a little home near the beach.
Daily Life: Affordable, Friendly, and Full of Character
What struck me immediately was how unpretentious San Carlos felt. It’s a town that serves locals first, not tourists, which means a lack of souvenir shops and more of the small but essential places that actually matter day to day: a pharmacy, a laundry service, corner stores, and small restaurants serving hearty Panamanian fare. The vibe is deeply local, and Spanish is the main language spoken. If you’re looking for an English-speaking enclave or expat-themed happy hours, this probably isn’t your place. But if you’re seeking immersion and authenticity, San Carlos has it in spades.
I spent my time there just wandering, in search of beaches, coffee, and snacks. The latter was easily found in the many small stores. A local supermercado yielded delightful surprises: a liter of juice for $1.35, big handfuls of cilantro for 35 cents, eggs for $2.50 a dozen, potatoes and onions for $1.50 a pound, and steak for $4.50 a pound. Sandwich bread was just 92 cents. The prices weren’t the only thing that stood out—every interaction felt friendly, unhurried, and human.
The beaches, too, are multiple and individual. From town, you simply follow the scent of seawater and a road lined with flowering gardens and pastel-painted homes, until the black-and-white sand shoreline (common in this area) opens up to you. During the week, you could walk for hours along the shore without bumping into many other people—and certainly few other foreigners. Instead, families gather after school or play soccer in the sand. Down the shoreline, local fishermen pull in their catch, surrounded by circling pelicans and gulls hoping for scraps.
Closer to the private marina (near a gated golf community), pleasure boats bob gently in the sun.
When I was there, there were no booming beach clubs or jet ski rentals, no loud music or day-trippers. Just a wide, quiet coast, the sound of waves, and the sense that life moves at exactly the right pace here.
Outdoor Adventures and Easy Weekend Escapes
Beyond the beach, the surrounding region is rich with natural beauty and easy-to-reach adventures. The mountain town of El Valle de Antón is just a 40-minute drive inland. Built in the crater of a dormant volcano, it offers a slightly cooler climate, waterfalls, hiking trails, thermal springs, and one of Panama’s best-known outdoor markets. It’s a popular weekend escape for those who call the coast home.
Birdwatching, hiking, cycling—all of it is easily accessible. And because you’re still in the Arco Seco, the weather stays pleasant year-round, with less rain than much of the country.
San Carlos might feel tucked away, but it isn’t isolated. Coronado is just down the road, where you’ll find larger grocery stores, restaurants, hardware shops, and familiar chains if that’s what you crave. Panama City—with its world-class medical care, cultural offerings, and international airport—is about an hour’s drive away.
This balance is key: You can live in peaceful simplicity without giving up access to the big stuff when you need it.
Cost of Living in San Carlos: How Far Your Money Goes
Affordability is one of San Carlos’ greatest assets. You can rent a two-bedroom, two-bathroom home with air conditioning, a community pool, and 24-hour security in nearby El Palmar for between $700 and $900 a month, depending on location and features. For buyers, a two-bedroom apartment with a shared pool and reasonable HOA fees hovers just above $100,000, while a charming local-style house with a fruit-tree-filled garden and a separate casita can be found for under $150,000.
Even dining out is easy on the wallet. While some meals might cost around $10, it’s still possible to enjoy fresh seafood or a grilled chicken plate for under $8, especially at local spots. Because the area isn’t dominated by tourism, prices tend to stay steady year-round.
Nightlife, Safety, and Community Vibes
One of the things I loved most about San Carlos was the feeling of calm that settled over the town after dark. The streets go quiet, the stars come out, and the air cools just enough to make a cold beer or a glass of wine on the patio feel like an event. At night, tiny geckos skitter across the walls under porch lights, and you’re more likely to hear the rustle of palm fronds than a passing car.
During the day, the vibe is cheerful but unrushed. You’ll see families enjoying the beach, neighbors chatting outside shops, and you might even get gently but warmly teased about your slightly sunburnt gringa skin (ask me how I know!). There’s no rush, no pressure to do anything other than enjoy where you are.
Healthcare Access in and Around San Carlos
There is a local health center in San Carlos offering basic services to residents. For more comprehensive or emergency care, expats typically visit clinics in Coronado, such as the San Fernando Clinic, which provides a wide range of medical services, including emergency care, general practice, and specialists. For top-tier hospitals and specialized treatments, Panama City is the go-to.
Final Thoughts: Is San Carlos Right for You?
San Carlos isn’t for everyone. If you crave nightlife or a built-in expat social scene, you might find it too quiet. And with few English speakers, Duolingo-level Spanish probably won’t be enough to cut it long-term—you’ll definitely want at least basic conversational skills to get by.
But if you’re looking for an affordable, sun-drenched town where the beach is never far, the cost of living is comfortably low, and tranquility is a daily occurrence—not a weekend luxury—then San Carlos deserves a place on your radar. It’s a spot where you can have it all… on a budget of $2,000 or less per month—and without the noise.
If you’re curious, consider spending a week or two in a local rental to see if San Carlos matches your lifestyle. A short visit might just turn into something more permanent.
Get Your Free Panama Report Today!
Get Your Free Panama Report Today!
Learn more about a healthier outdoor life in Panama and other countries in our daily postcard e-letter. Simply enter your email address below and we'll send you a FREE REPORT -- Panama: Easy, First-World Living and the World’s Best Retiree Program.
By submitting your email address, you will receive a free subscription to IL Postcards and special offers from International Living and our affiliates. You can unsubscribe at any time, and we encourage you to read more about our Privacy Policy.