"We Swapped Wine Making in Oregon for a Caribbean B&B"

Our motorboat hums as it slows to glide across the final stretch of warm, baby-blue Caribbean sea. A lemon-yellow sun bathes the scene before me in its bright, cheerful light.

I’ve reached Casa Acuario, a boutique hotel built right over the water in Bocas del Toro, Panama’s Caribbean archipelago. You can jump into the sea from the wraparound terrace or the convenient little boat dock. Off to one side is a row of yellow cabins on stilts, and a miniature lighthouse painted in coral and white stripes.

On a roomy deck out back, I meet Casa Acuario’s new proprietors, husband and wife team JP and Mandy Caldcleugh. A chalk menu lists breakfast cocktails, banana pancakes with maple syrup and bacon, and other good things to eat and sip. "All orders include fresh fruit and coconut bread," the sign says. A great way to start the day… the Bocas way.

Behind us is tiny Carenero Island, dotted with homes, places to stay, and a few popular beach eateries. "You can follow the white-sand beach and walk around the island in a little over an hour… no cars, no shoes, no worries," Mandy says.

Louisiana natives Mandy and JP are affable hosts—JP serves me a glass of white wine while we talk about their decision to move to Bocas del Toro from Oregon.

JP was a director of winemaking at Union Wine Company. Mandy, a dental hygienist, put her degree to work for a few months each year. The rest of the time, she cultivated fruits, vegetables, and more for Union Wine Co. employees.

"Mandy was putting together boxes of seasonal veggies for 40 people at one point," says JP. "The employees loved her, it was like Christmas every week. And when we brought customers out, they would see a beautiful garden overlooking the vineyard."

It wasn’t a bad life—not at all. But they had other dreams…

"Farming is not easy. It’s a passion of mine, and I love being outside," says Mandy, "but I didn’t really want to do it when it was freezing and my fingers were numb."

"We’ve both always been attracted to the Caribbean lifestyle," says JP. "The warm weather, the slow pace, the water…" JP’s work in Oregon was going well, but losing loved ones prior to the pandemic jolted them both. And then came the lockdowns.

"JP wasn’t going into the winery then, he was out at the farm helping me a lot," says Mandy. "And one day he looked at me and said: ‘Ok, I think I’m ready.’"

Everyone thought we were crazy to buy this place.

"I thought, we’re either going to do this together, or she’s going to do it without me… so I need to get on board," says JP. "After making that decision, things moved pretty quickly."

They considered various destinations, including Mexico and Puerto Rico. "But none of them checked all of our boxes," says Mandy. "And after Katrina, being in a place with no hurricanes was extremely important to us."

Panama wasn’t initially on their radar, but the country’s climate, easy residence programs, and dollarized economy made it a strong contender for the couple. "Bocas was the first place we got serious about, because there’s tourism here, and we needed an income right away," JP says.

They had never run a hotel, but when they learned Casa Acuario had been operating in Bocas for years and was up for sale, they seized the opportunity.

They finalized the sale in September of 2020, doing most of the paperwork and inspections from afar. "We almost moved sight unseen—Mandy came and signed the final paperwork in person, so we had one last chance to back out," laughs JP.

"I never thought we would actually find a home in the Caribbean," he says. "I was picturing a home near the sea—that would have been good enough. We ended up over the sea… even better.

"We bought this place from the original owner—the woman who built it—for $317,000. We just caught her at just the right time. It needed a lot of work, so we probably put in another $124,000 in the first year."

With four large rooms and a small two-bedroom house out back, it’s a manageable size for the first-time hoteliers. "It didn’t take a whole lot of creative thinking to figure out how it would work," says JP.

That said, much of what they needed to run the hotel wasn’t available for sale on the island. The couple filled a shipping container with furniture and antiques—to add character to the place—as well as necessities like hotel linens. If they had to do it all again, though, they might go about things a little differently.

"Now we know a bit more about how hotels in Panama City source these things, but when you’re new, it can take a while to figure it all out," says Mandy.

"At first it was baptism by fire," agrees JP. "Then you meet people… you figure out who to go to and what to prioritize."

Occupancy has been great; it was over 75% in their first year, despite the pandemic. Their local real estate agent and lawyer—and even the previous owner of Casa Acuario (also an expat)— proved to be valuable resources. Having someone to talk to from back home made them feel more at ease. They were able to ask questions and obtain answers in English before making their first foray into a Spanish-speaking world.

"None of our employees speak English," says Mandy. "JP and I did pretty much everything the first year. Now we have some amazing employees. But the training process was very hard—none of them had ever cooked for other people before, or cleaned rooms, so all of it was brand new."

The couple had only taken a year of high school Spanish, but they did their best to brush up on their skills and teach themselves, sometimes using online tools like Duolingo. "I had always known I needed to be immersed to learn, and that’s what is happening," says Mandy. "We can for sure communicate now and get our points across."

"It’s been challenging but super rewarding," says JP. "We’ve never worked for ourselves. Being able to do things the way we want is gratifying."

They’re still putting most of what they make back into the hotel—Mandy and JP have worked hard to run Casa Acuario as a successful business—but life here is also casual and fun. Every morning, Mandy gets up and swims in the ocean.

"We have coral and all of our fish friends right beneath us, and every morning we get to say hello," says Mandy. She and JP (and their guests) can surf and snorkel, enjoy jungle treks and boat rides, and sample world-class cuisine whenever they want.

Just a few minutes by boat from the provincial capital known as Bocas Town, Casa Acuario is convenient and easy to get to. And though Bocas has a reputation for right of possession (or untitled) property, a good attorney can help steer you in the right direction if you’re considering buying property here.

"Everyone thought we were crazy to buy this place," says Mandy. "They’d say, what if it doesn’t work… what if you go there and you hate it?"

Her answer to them was simple: "So then we sell the place and we leave. It’s no big deal, we’ll figure it out. Life is too short to not go for it. Some things may be too good to be true, but some things are just truly good."

"Despite all the challenges, it’s an amazing life," says JP. "We’re outside all day and can jump in the water every day. We have an amazing community here.

It’s pretty idyllic, even on the tough days. There are complications but, in general, it’s a simpler, slower life."

"When I first flew down here (during the pandemic), the buses and the domestic planes weren’t operating, so it was an adventure to get to Bocas," says Mandy. "I had to hire a driver, and it took me 10 hours to get to the port at Almirante. Then I had to find a boat to take me to Casa Acuario."

It was a difficult day, but the experience didn’t put her off. In fact, it was all part of the adventure.

"When I was on the boat approaching from Almirante, I felt like I went through a portal and entered a new dimension," she says.

How to Get to Casa Acuario

The fastest, easiest way to get to Casa Acuario is to take an Uber to Panama City’s domestic Marcos A.

Gelabert airport (more commonly referred to as the Albrook Airport, as it is located in the Albrook sector of western Panama City). Air Panama is currently the sole operator offering commercial flights to Bocas, prices fluctuate from around $120 to $275 (round trip) depending on factors such as season and fuel prices.

Your flight will land in Bocas del Toro town—usually referred to as Bocas Town—on Isla Colón. From there it’s a short water taxi ride to Carenero Island, where you’ll find Casa Acuario (which is actually on the water, just off of Carenero). Water taxis usually charge $1 to $2 per person unless it’s after 5 p.m.

Alternatively, take the bus from Panama City’s Albrook terminal (Gran Terminal Nacional) to Almirante for around $40, and then a water taxi to Carenero. I recommend the overnight bus, which takes about 11 hours. If you have a rental car, note that the drive is spectacular, but not for the faint of heart. The road will take you over the Continental Divide and you’ll have expansive views at the massive La Fortuna dam, which is at the extreme south of the Talamanca Cordillera.

The two-lane road is narrow and often in poor condition. There few signs, potholes can be deep during the rainy season, and oncoming traffic drifts into the other lane at the hairpin curves. Also, rain or fog can obscure the road entirely. Honk your horn when rounding a bend, and listen for other drivers’ horns.