Why I Chose Split, Croatia, Over Anywhere Else in Europe

Why I Chose Split, Croatia, Over Anywhere Else in Europe
Sunny days on Split’s seafront: cafés, boats, and historic charm all in one view.|©iStock/trabantos

The first time I came to Croatia was at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic. My sister needed emergency dental treatment, and a private clinic in Zagreb was offering fast and affordable care. Fast forward a year later, and I was on my way back to Split for a couple of months unwinding by the sea. Little did I know I’d end up staying here for four years and counting!

Croatians often ask me why I stayed in Split, and the answer is simple: it’s a city that took me by surprise. I’d spent most of the previous decade living and working abroad in Argentina and Spain before returning home to London during the pandemic. But I’d always dreamed of a simple life on the Med.

Arriving in Split felt like a dream come true. Strolling along the palm-lined promenade on the way to the beach soon became a daily habit. Afterwards, I’d meander through the ancient Roman palace that forms the nucleus of the Old Town and unwind with a coffee at one of the many outdoor cafés. Life here is slow and easy.

Incredible Coastline and Natural Beauty

Krka National Park’s waterfalls shimmer with autumn color.
Krka National Park’s waterfalls shimmer with autumn color.|©iStock/DaLiu

What drew me to Croatia was its beaches and coastline. The first time I visited Split, the country was just opening up to tourism again after COVID-19. I was struck by the beauty of this ancient Croatian city perched on the edge of the Adriatic Sea, bounded by craggy mountains on one side and a string of islands on the other.

When the city gets too busy in the summer, it’s easy to just jump on a ferry to lesser-known islands like Šolta or Lastovo. Here you can find your own little slice of paradise where tourists rarely venture. Last summer, a friend and I headed to Lastovo for a local music festival tucked away in a private bay. We danced the night away with locals and fell asleep to the lullaby of the waves right outside our apartment.

On another summer weekend, I took the ferry over to Rogač on the island of Šolta with a big group of friends. We hiked over to the other side of the island and ran into a kindly local who gave us a free ride in his boat to a stunning, deserted cove. We stayed for hours swimming and snorkeling in the pristine turquoise waters.

And it’s not just the coastline that’s beautiful. Close to Split is Krka National Park, known for its waterfalls. My favorite time to visit is in fall when the golden leaves reflect in the pools. Strolling along the wooden boardwalks right next to the water feels like something out of a fairytale.

There are also plenty of opportunities for hiking in the mountains, including Mosor, about a 30-minute drive from Split, and Biokovo, around an hour down the coast. I usually plan my hikes to include a stop at a local mountain hut, or dom, where they offer hearty cuisine like goulash or bean stew.

A Slower, Sweeter Pace of Life

Another reason I stayed in Split is the amazing quality of life here. Locals have a word, pomalo, which means something like “chill” or “slow down,” and it totally sums up the vibe here. People spend hours catching up over coffee on the Riva, the main promenade by the sea in the center of town. Nothing is done in a hurry, except for driving, which can be pretty fast and furious!

Split is a small city of around 180,000 people, and it’s easy to get around via public transport or bus. In the summer, numbers swell as tourists flock here to party and go to the beach. Even so, it’s easy enough to avoid them by heading to one of the islands or visiting more local beaches. Summer is also a good time for an extended visit home, since it does get hot and sticky—especially in July and August.

Finding Belonging in Split’s Community

Community spirit runs deep in Croatia—locals are quick to share food, drink, and friendship.
Community spirit runs deep in Croatia—locals are quick to share food, drink, and friendship.|©iStock/Travel Faery

The people of Split have a bit of a reputation for being proud and a little gruff with newcomers. But spend a bit of time here, and you’ll soon find they have hearts of gold. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve been offered veggies from the garden by my neighbors or invited over for a drink while out hiking.

There’s a real sense of belonging and community here that you don’t find in bigger cities or in most places in Western Europe. I recently took a trip to the little town of Trilj with some friends to cool off by the river. A big group of locals having a party down there immediately spotted us and invited us to join them for a drink. All afternoon, they plied us with more beers and delicious grilled meats from their barbecue.

Croatian can be a tricky language to learn, especially if you’re not familiar with any other Slavic-based languages. But it’s worth learning the basics to integrate better with locals. People’s faces light up the moment they realize you can speak a little Croatian. I’ve had lots of lovely interactions on the bus or at events, especially with older people who love to see others trying to learn their language!

Living Well for Less

Living in Split is pretty affordable compared to major cities like London or New York. It’s possible to live here comfortably on around $1,500 to $2,000 per month. This includes my rent for a two-bedroom apartment in a nice neighborhood, eating out a couple of times a week, and weekend trips to nearby islands or local events.

On the flip side, grocery prices have increased significantly in the last couple of years, and bars and restaurants in the Old Town and touristy areas tend to be expensive. I prefer local konobas, or simple restaurants, which serve up huge grilled meat or fish platters for about €15–20 per person.

Easy Access to Other Schengen Countries

Another big benefit of living in Croatia is traveling to other Schengen countries. Most temporary residency options in Croatia allow you to spend up to 90 days outside of the country, so there’s plenty of time for exploring the rest of Europe while you’re here. Plus, travel throughout most of the Schengen region is borderless these days.

It’s easy to pop over to Slovenia, Italy, or Austria for a weekend of skiing or sipping Aperols by the canal in Venice. This summer, I took a couple of weeks off to climb Slovenia’s highest mountain, Triglav, and hike around the Dolomites and St. Moritz in Switzerland. It was incredible to cool off in pristine alpine lakes and enjoy a sundowner beer at the foot of the famous Tre Cime peaks.

Tackling Croatia’s Visa Process

Staying in Croatia long-term can be complicated if you don’t have Croatian heritage or a job offer here. Most non-EU expats opt for digital nomad or prepaid rent visas, which allow you to stay for 12 to 18 months at a time.

Government offices are extremely slow here, and there’s a lot of red tape, so expect it to take six to nine months for your visa to be processed. Fortunately, you can stay in Croatia while you’re waiting. Many expats work with a local visa consultant to help expedite the process.

Why I’m Still Here Four Years Later

Life slows down in Split’s Old Town, where narrow streets and local cafés invite connection and community.
Life slows down in Split’s Old Town, where narrow streets and local cafés invite connection and community.|©iStock/DaLiu

Croatia is home to incredible natural beauty, an authentic community, and an easy-going pace of life. It’s an ideal base if you’re looking to spend a year or two in Europe and explore the Balkan region.

If you’re thinking about taking the leap, my advice is—just take the leap and get stuck in! Although things don’t always run as smoothly as in “Western” countries, the kindness of the people and the sheer beauty of this place make it all worthwhile.

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