Why I Fell for Island Life in Bocas del Toro: Colón, Carenero, and Bastimentos

There are certain places in the world where travelers find themselves blissfully ensnared by the charm and simplicity of life, rendering them unmovable. I had never fully understood this phenomenon until I set foot in Bocas del Toro, a lively archipelago on Panama’s Caribbean coast. Amid the palm-fringed pathways of these nine main islands, I met the warmest people, found some of my most beloved beaches, and felt a profound sense of peace. Having scenic water taxis as my primary mode of transport never lost its novelty. In Bocas, surfers ride legendary waves, snorkelers explore clear waters, and sun-seekers bask on wild, expansive beaches. Each island tells its own story, and together they form a paradise that’s hard to leave — myself included.

After first laying eyes on the archipelago in 2015 during a trip around Central America, I was convinced my life in London, England, was over, and I’d have to move to Panama — which I did two years later. Bocas (as locals refer to it) is a part-mainland, part-archipelago province that boasts two national parks (Parque Internacional La Amistad and Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos), making it a big draw for nature lovers. There are over 300 islets and islands, and the principal ones are Isla Colón, Isla Carenero, and Isla Bastimentos, all of which I have been fortunate to call home. Here is a guide to finding tropical bliss in Bocas del Toro.

Isla Colón

Parque Simón Bolivar in Bocas Town: A vibrant hub for locals and visitors under towering palms.|©Rosie Bell

The main hub of the archipelago is Bocas Town on Isla Colón, where most visitors begin their journeys. Compared to living in Panama City, everything is within walking distance here. The town's history is deeply intertwined with the banana industry, with many buildings dating back to the early 20th century when the United Fruit Company (now Chiquita Brands International) established its presence. Today, these historic buildings house a culturally eclectic mix of locals, expats, and tourists with diverse interests: indigenous Ngöbe-Buglé people, Afro-Antilleans, Chinese-Panamanians, Latin Americans, and English-speaking Europeans and North Americans.

Third Street (Calle Tercera), commonly known as Main Street, is where you'll find a variety of shops, restaurants, and tour operators. Whether you're looking to dive, surf, or simply relax with a cocktail, Bocas Town has something for everyone. For nightlife enthusiasts, Selina, the Rush waterfront club, and the Space food court are the places to be, while waterfront restaurants like La Buga and Buena Vista provide the perfect vantage points for people-watching. Some of my most pleasant and poignant memories on Isla Colón involve taking in serenades during the blue hour at La Buga, which is a surf lounge, surf shop, and restaurant. Enjoying live music is part and parcel of the Bocas del Toro experience.

Over 40 hotels and hostels dot the nine avenues of Bocas Town, offering everything from luxurious lodgings to budget-friendly boutique stays like Bocas Paradise Hotel, one of my top picks in town with waterfront views. Finding last-minute accommodation is not usually problematic, except during special occasions like the weeklong Feria del Mar (Sea Fair) every September, Carnaval (February or March), and fiestas patrias in November when Panama celebrates its independence days. You can find apartments and guesthouses for short-term stays on platforms like Booking.com. If you wish to stay longer (as many typically do), figure out which part of the island appeals to you most and look out for “for rent” signs on properties.

The best beaches on Isla Colón are a bit further from the main drag of Bocas Town. To get to my favorite sandy spot on the island, I grab the bus from Parque Simón Bolivar that leaves for Boca del Drago every hour. While there, you can sway under the palms in a hammock, have lunch at Yarisnori restaurant, or head straight to Playa Estrella (Starfish Beach) by water taxi or on foot. This beach is known for its calm, shallow, starfish-speckled waters, and it's a popular spot for snorkeling and relaxing, particularly on weekends. I also love to sit back and watch surfers at Playa Bluff and Playa Paunch, both of which attract surfers from all over the world.

If I don’t feel like journeying out to one of the more postcard-worthy beaches on Isla Colón, I’ll opt for an afternoon in the infinity pool at Merén Pool Club, watching the lanchas (motorized water taxis) darting back and forth.

Isla Colón is the largest and most developed island in the archipelago, and it’s best to base yourself there if you want buzz and energy. It’s also a great jump-off point for adventures further afield, such as exploring the 15-plus dive sites in Bocas that teem with marine life. Notable spots include Isla Solarte's Pandora shipwreck and the vibrant coral reefs of Hospital Point. Year-round warm waters and short boat rides to dive sites make Isla Colón an ideal base for underwater adventurers.

Isla Carenero

A fiery sunset over Isla Carenero, with a water taxi gliding through the glowing waters. |©Rosie Bell

A one-minute hop from Isla Colón, Isla Carenero (Careening Cay) is a small island with no roads that offers a peaceful retreat from Bocas Town. I thoroughly adored living on Isla Carenero in a beachfront bungalow when I needed to escape the hustle and bustle of Isla Colón. Many say that Isla Carenero looks and feels more paradisiacal than Isla Colón, and tired city dwellers come here for a serene, barefoot beach existence.

Being much smaller than Isla Colón, Isla Carenero has less variety accommodation-wise. A night at the iconic yellow waterfront bungalows at Faro del Colibri could set you back around $140. Larger apartments and bungalows are certainly available, but reserving ahead of time is advisable.

Isla Carenero is small enough to explore on foot, with a trail that circumnavigates the island. This hike offers stunning views of rocky coastlines, lush jungles, and secluded swimming spots. Be sure to bring bug spray, as sand flies (chitras) can be a nuisance, especially at sunrise and sunset.

For surfers, Isla Carenero offers three main surf spots: Black Rock, Old Mans, and Carenero Point. Beginners can hone their skills at Black Rock, while more experienced surfers can tackle the waves at Carenero Point. For lessons and board rentals, Escuela del Mar Surf School can cater to all your needs.

For the best sunset views on Isla Carenero, park yourself at Aqua Lounge, an over-the-water hostel, bar, and events venue with regular themed parties and a vibrant atmosphere. There’s a generous happy hour, and the venue's dive tower and ocean pool add to the fun. Another must-visit spot on Isla Carenero is Bibi's on the Beach, an over-the-water restaurant renowned for its fresh seafood and famous piña coladas. Happy Hour here is a steal with $3 cocktails (all made with fresh ingredients) and stunning views of the surrounding waters, where you may occasionally spot swimming manta rays. Unquestionably, all my friends who visited me in Bocas were taken to Bibi’s for an obligatory sampling of their ceviche and Caribbean soup.

If you’re staying out late on Carenero, ask the restaurant staff to call a water taxi for you, as these can be hard to come by at night.

Isla Bastimentos

Rosie takes in the peaceful views of Cayo Zapatilla.|©Rosie Bell

Just a 10-minute boat ride from Bocas Town, Isla Bastimentos offers an even more tranquil and nature-focused experience. This lush green island is a favorite among eco-travelers and wildlife enthusiasts, lured by its pristine beaches, dense jungles, and Panama's first national marine park.

Established in 1988, Parque Nacional Marino Isla Bastimentos covers 33,000 hectares of sea and land, protecting diverse ecosystems including mangrove forests, coral reefs, and turtle nesting sites. The Zapatilla Cays are part of the park, and I urge all visitors to the archipelago to make the day trip out to see these uninhabited cays on a sunny day. Shaped like sandals, legend has it that these cays are the footprints of God. They are infrastructure-free, so you’ll have to bring your own supplies and picnic gear. Organized day tours to the Zapatilla Cays often include wildlife-spotting pit stops at Dolphin Bay — an exhilarating experience you won’t regret.

The main settlement on Isla Bastimentos is called Old Bank, and it exudes an authentic Caribbean vibe. The town's residents, many of whom are Afro-Caribbean descendants, speak Guari-Guari, a unique blend of Jamaican patois, Spanish, and the local Ngöbe-Buglé language. For hearty home-style cooking in Old Bank, head to Mami's, where the generous portions won't disappoint.

The most famous beach on Isla Bastimentos is Red Frog Beach, named after the bright red poison-dart frogs that inhabit the surrounding forest. A short walk from the dock brings you to this stunning beach, where you can rent cabanas, join a game of beach volleyball, or simply relax and enjoy the natural beauty.

For a more thrilling experience, choose Wizard Beach (Playa Primera). The half-hour hike from Old Bank to this sandy stretch requires sturdy footwear and can be challenging, especially after rains. However, the reward is a vast undeveloped beach that could be all yours.

An experience that adventurous souls relish in Bastimentos is visiting the Nividia Bat Cave in Bahía Honda with a guided tour. This half-day trip is not for the faint-hearted or claustrophobic, as it entails navigating a cave with a subterranean lake and encountering bats, spiders, and whip scorpions.

During my time on Bastimentos, I stayed in a bungalow at Azul Paradise, a resort located on a secluded stretch of beach near the Ngöbe-Buglé village of Salt Creek (Quebrada Sal). It was a deliciously remote experience, with days organized around leisure, feasting on the fruits of the sea, and stargazing. This part of Bastimentos is a 30-minute boat ride from Isla Colón. It’s a great location if you want to get away from it all, but it can be a tad too quiet for some. Salt Creek is a community of around 900 residents, and visitors can explore this village with guides or independently, with a nominal entry fee supporting the community.

Overall, Bocas del Toro is a compelling place to call home if crystalline waters, silky sand beaches, live music, Caribbean cuisine, and variety set your heart alight.