48 Hours in Sayulita: A Colorful, Contradictory Beach Escape

48 Hours in Sayulita
Color, chaos, and coast—Sayulita’s charm lies in its contradictions.|©iStock/zstockphotos

Sayulita is deceptive.

On one hand, it’s an old hippie haven for barefoot surfers with dreadlocks who’ve called it home for decades. On the other hand, it’s a high-end shopper’s paradise, with boutiques selling unique pieces of wearable art, collectible finds, and wall-worthy decor. These aren’t your typical Mexican souvenir or tequila-tasting shops—this is where you’ll find threaded or beaded cow skulls made using traditional methods, modern art, and textiles dyed with natural pigments.

And then, just to add to the identity crisis, there’s a trailer park in the middle of downtown.

It doesn’t make a lot of sense, yet somehow, it works. And the more you scratch the surface, the more the town’s charm shines through. But even at first glance, Sayulita has immediate appeal. The beaches are glorious. The food scene is vibrant. The street art is fabulous.

The first time I went to Sayulita, I wasn’t a fan. It felt like a dusty little surf town where there were more Americans and Canadians than Mexicans.

Most of that hasn’t changed. But on my second trip, I scratched a little deeper, and its true colors came out. Sayulita grew on me.

Heading north, about an hour’s drive from Puerto Vallarta’s international airport, there’s just one turn-off to Sayulita’s single road in. A few food stalls dot the roadside, but it feels rustic and almost deserted.

Drive a few blocks toward the beach, and chaos rolls in—scooters buzz past, golf carts honk as they weave through crowds, and dusty trucks inch forward until the whole street grinds to a halt near the downtown plaza. Hand-painted murals adorn crumbling walls, papel picado (colorful flags) flutters overhead, and a salty breeze reminds you the ocean is just a block away.

So, while Sayulita might seem like a town of contradictions, it’s those very contrasts that make it worth exploring. Whether you’re here for a weekend escape or testing the waters for a longer stay, give it a chance to show off its layers.

Here’s how to spend an unforgettable 48 hours in this colorful little surf town.

Saturday

Morning:

Start your day at ChocoBanana—a restaurant founded by an English woman determined not to return home. She originally sold chocolate-dipped bananas on the beach, and it evolved into one of the best breakfast and lunch spots in town.

They’ve been in the same location for 28 years. It’s a staple, and Tracie is legendary around town.

Try the banana bread. You can thank me later.

But don’t eat too much, you’re about to start a surf lesson. You can’t visit Sayulita without at least giving surfing a try.

Sayulita’s surf schools are perfect for beginners chasing their first wave.
Sayulita’s surf schools are perfect for beginners chasing their first wave.|©iStock/Jodi Jacobson

After a light breakfast, head to WildMex Surf and Adventure, or pick any surf shop among the dozens lining the beach. Whoever you choose, make sure the student-to-teacher ratio is low—less than 4-to-1 is ideal.

You’ll start your lesson on the beach, learning how to pop up on the board. But standing on the board in the sand is just a precursor to face-planting in the ocean. Good thing the bottom is sandy, so if you hit it (and you probably will), it doesn't hurt too badly.

Your small group will paddle out with the instructor. When a small wave comes, they’ll push you into it. You’ll attempt to pop up and ride the wave to shore. When you finally do, the joy and adrenaline will keep you buzzing for days.

Pro tip: Don’t forget to jump off the board before its underside fin sinks into the sand like a handbrake—and you get launched forward.

Yes, I’m speaking from experience.

Afternoon:

After your lesson, you’ll need to feed your body and probably soothe your ego. Surfing (or attempting to surf) is exhausting.

Head to Naty’s to stuff your face with $1–$1.20 (20–25 peso) tacos. These are probably the cheapest in town and absolutely delicious. Try the chicken mole, the pork with pumpkin, or the pork with cactus. Wash it down with agua fresca, fruit-infused water made fresh daily. The hibiscus is a fan favorite.

If you’re vegetarian, they’ve got you covered with fillings like potatoes, beans, and panela cheese, or poblano chiles in rich salsa.

Now that you’re satiated, it’s time for a beach massage.

There are plenty of tents on the beach offering massages, so it won’t take long to find a spot. Let the sound of the waves lull you into a nap while you melt into relaxation. Expect to pay around $30 an hour. Feel free to negotiate, but be realistic. This is a tourist town. You’re not getting a deep tissue massage for $10.

And don’t forget to tip—10–15% is a good rule of thumb.

Evening:
Tacos, tamales, cocktails, and coffee—Sayulita serves flavor in every corner.
Tacos, tamales, cocktails, and coffee—Sayulita serves flavor in every corner.|©iStock/Linda Raymond

After your massage, it’s time for a sundowner with your feet in the sand.

Head to Bar Miramar, a bit further up the beach on Playa Norte. It’s worth the stroll for a change of pace; this stretch of beach is calmer, with fewer crowds and more space between chairs.

The owners, Odette and Eric, will make you feel like old friends. I had a ginger-jalapeño margarita that was beautifully spicy with just enough sweetness to balance it out.

If the tamale lady comes by, grab one to go with Eric’s fresh fruit margaritas. Not that you’re hungry, but it’s a perfect local appetizer before dinner.

Once the sun sets, walk about 10 minutes south on Avenida del Palmar to head back into town.

Matiz Seafood serves a dish called Molcajete de Mariscos ($14.75/290 pesos). A molcajete is a volcanic stone mortar and pestle, and here it’s used as a sizzling vessel for chiltepin salsa, shrimp, octopus, tuna, fish, and snails. It’s roasted at high heat and served bubbling, alongside tortillas to soak up the smoky, earthy sauce.

If you’ve got room for one more indulgence, walk five minutes to Mariachi Sayulita for a nightcap. Try the Oaxac-tuah, a smoky mezcal cocktail with Aperol, grapefruit, lime, and soda ($9.60/190 pesos).

Then head home to bed—you party animal.

Sunday

Morning:

After decades of surfers living in Sayulita, it’s no surprise that yoga and Pilates are among the top activities in town.

Start your day with a morning yoga class at Hotelito Los Sueños. They have a lovely outdoor space and offer a wide range of classes—from Slow Flow and Vinyasa to Hatha and even lesser-known styles like Yin & Bhakti.

Since it’s a hotel, guests receive 50% off. Otherwise, each drop-in class costs $10 (200 pesos), with discounted rates available for multi-class packages.

After centering yourself with yoga, hop in a golf cart and cruise around in search of Sayulita’s fantastic street art. You can walk and do it all as well, but hiring a golf cart means you can reach the furthest spots of town and discover more than you would on foot.

Additionally, it's mighty hot and hilly in Sayulita, so you'll get off the beaten path and stay cool while doing it. Golf carts start around $56/1100 pesos per day.

Afternoon
Cruise past murals and palm-lined streets in a Sayulita golf cart.
Cruise past murals and palm-lined streets in a Sayulita golf cart.|©Kirsten Raccuia

Once you’ve tracked down the best murals and street installations, it’s time for lunch. Organi-k serves poke bowls made with the freshest ingredients and locally caught tuna. Pair it with a Dr. Green juice—spinach, celery, cucumber, and apple—and you’ll feel refreshingly healthy before the evening’s sundowners (and mischief) begin.

If you’re in Sayulita with family, celebrating, or just want a keepsake from your time here, consider booking a photography session with Georgia Glennon. Originally from the U.S., she’s been based in Sayulita since 2008 and specializes in couples and family portraits. She knows all the best, most photogenic spots in town.

Feeling wiped from all this activity? Stretch out on a chaise lounge at the GOAT Beach Club. You’ll get great drinks, friendly service, and good music right in the heart of Sayulita's most hopping beach.

Or, if you swallowed enough seawater during your surf lesson and feel like a rooftop pool is more your vibe, grab a day pass at the Sayulinda Hotel. They have a killer infinity pool, cabanas, a bar, and a café so you can spend the day doing nothing and feel good about it.

Night

For your last night in Sayulita, treat yourself to a meal at Barracuda, one of the best restaurants in town.

The state of Nayarit is known for its signature dish: pescado zarandeado. And here, it’s done to perfection. This marinated fish fillet (usually red snapper) is basted in a mixture of guajillo or ancho chiles, achiote, garlic, soy sauce or Worcestershire, and grilled slowly over charcoal. Add a squeeze of lime and you’ve got one of the most flavorful—not spicy—fish dishes of your vacation. It’s divine and not to be missed ($19.25).

Wrap up your night with a craft cocktail made from fresh, local ingredients at Escondido—named one of Sayulita’s best bars by Culture Trip and Travel + Leisure. Try the Penicillin #2: mezcal, tequila añejo, fresh ginger, lime, and honey served on the rocks.

Still not ready to leave? Head to Cava for an agave spirit tasting. Then go ahead—cry into your tequila because you’re leaving Sayulita and you’re just not ready. Good thing salt tastes great with tequila.

The Final Say About Sayulita
One last sunset, one last sip... Sayulita makes it hard to say goodbye.
One last sunset, one last sip... Sayulita makes it hard to say goodbye.|©iStock/Linda Raymond

Yes, it’s very touristy. But it’s managed to retain its small-town appeal. There aren’t any big box stores or large grocery chains, let alone a Starbucks. For those conveniences, you’ll need to drive 30 minutes south to Bucerías.

Sayulita is a town of contradictions—in the best way. It’s a place where barefoot hippies, boutique shoppers, and long-term expats all find their rhythm.

It may not be for everyone. But if you give it a little time, Sayulita just might surprise you.

Its charm isn’t in its polish—it’s in the beautiful chaos. In its layered identity. The first time I came, I didn’t get it. But the second time, I slowed down, looked a little closer—and there it was.

Stick around long enough, and you might find a little clarity in the disorder, too.

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