The $219K Spanish Condo That Launched a Dream Retirement

An Ocean-View Penthouse on the Costa del Sol for Less Than $219,000
Sun, sea, and whitewashed charm in Benalmádena. |©Steve Aronberg

From the balcony of his condo on the Costa del Sol, Steve Aronberg sips a glass of wine and listens to his favorite music as he watches the sunset over the Mediterranean. He’s done this every night for eight years—except when traveling to other European countries or on safari in South Africa. Often, his husband, Sven Christiansen, shares this ritual with him.

In 2017, Steve and Sven bought their three-bedroom, two-bath condo in picturesque Benalmádena Pueblo for less than $219,000. The location, just west of Málaga, sits between the popular seaside city of Fuengirola and the internationally known LGBTQ+-friendly resort of Torremolinos. Because Sven was born in Denmark and has an EU passport, Steve was able to get residency immediately through marriage.

He says, “When we were in the process of buying our house, they wanted to know what our relationship was. We said, ‘We’re married!’ It didn’t seem like it made any difference at all. I have found people to be quite accepting. It’s a very gay-friendly place. One of the wonderful things about living in Spain is that sexual orientation is simply not an issue.”

Today, Steve estimates that the value of their condo has probably doubled. He observes, “New building has been crazy and is mainly being bought by expats. More and more Americans are finding out about the Costa del Sol. Now, there’s a flight from Newark to Málaga. I have mixed feelings about too many people finding out how nice it is to live here. I don’t want to lose the authentic Spanish culture. Rents have gone up, and it’s harder to find an apartment.”

Benalmádena Pueblo has been growing, too. Its population has increased from 3,000 in 2017 to 3,500 today. Steve says, “It’s been under construction since November. Now we have new water pipes and new sewer pipes. The sidewalks are being retiled. It will be nice when it is all finished.”

Prices for groceries and services have risen worldwide since the COVID pandemic, “but not nearly as much as in the US,” says Steve, who grew up in New Bedford, MA, and spent most of his career working for the Equal Employment Opportunity Commission in Washington, DC, and San Diego. “Last year, I went back to the US for a visit. I was floored by the grocery and restaurant prices. A glass of wine is $15. Here, you can order a bottle of wine in a restaurant for €20 [$22.60].”

Steve enjoys an active, social retirement on Spain’s Costa del Sol.
Steve enjoys an active, social retirement on Spain’s Costa del Sol.|©Steve Aronberg

As more Americans settled in the Costa del Sol, Steve’s social life flourished. “Now I have a huge group of new friends to socialize with—men and women, gay and straight. They are retired, like-minded people.” He met people through mutual friends, at meetings of Democrats Abroad, from Facebook groups such as American Expats in Spain and LGBTQ Expats in Spain, and by joining a weekly walking group with his dog, Calvin.

In 2022, the podcast Where Do Gays Retire interviewed Steve about the Málaga area. After that, potential LGBTQ expats began contacting him directly. “That has snowballed,” says Steve. “I enjoy meeting new folks, and I’m happy to help if they are serious. This week, I met with Steve and David from North Carolina. They are staying in Benalmádena for three weeks to see if they want to move here permanently.” Sven still works as a flight attendant, and some of his colleagues have started buying homes nearby and joining their social circle.

Sometimes, Steve takes the local train to meet friends in Torremolinos, a longtime LGBTQ haven where rainbow flags fly above beachfront bars. Although he’s “not big into the gay scene,” he’s noticed an increase in gay tourism in recent years. "Spain is very gay-friendly and tolerant. I have never experienced any discrimination here.”

Another of Steve’s favorite activities is volunteering with Estación Inglesa, an English immersion program for Spanish professionals. Native English-speaking volunteers and Spanish students spend a week together at a resort, engaging in one-on-one conversations, sharing meals, and doing group activities—all in English. Volunteers receive a private room and meals with wine at a five-star hotel. Steve says, “It’s a great opportunity to help Spaniards master English while meeting incredible people and learning about Spanish culture.”

The balcony view from Steve’s condo in Benalmádena overlooks the Mediterranean Sea.
The balcony view from Steve’s condo in Benalmádena overlooks the Mediterranean Sea.|©Steve Aronberg

In pursuit of his ongoing goal of improving his Spanish, Steve attended language classes in Torremolinos twice a week for the past two years. He reports, “My Spanish is better but far from good. I speak excellent restaurant Spanish.” He adds that on the Costa del Sol, “it’s easy to get by without speaking fluent Spanish. There are so many British expats and tourists from other parts of Europe that many Spanish people prefer to speak to you in English.”

Spain’s immigration system can be tricky. Two years ago, Steve lost his residency visa after exceeding the 183-day limit outside the country, due to part-time work in the U.S. and caring for his ailing father. His renewal was denied, and though he appealed and lost, his marriage to an EU citizen allowed him to reapply under “family reunification” status. The process took 13 stressful months, during which he couldn’t risk leaving Spain. He advises fellow expats to familiarize themselves with the residency requirements and carefully monitor the amount of time they spend outside of Spain.

Sea views and charm draw expats to Benalmádena’s sunny southern coast.
Sea views and charm draw expats to Benalmádena’s sunny southern coast.|©Steve Aronberg

After more than a year without international travel, Steve and Sven made up for lost time with a two-and-a-half-week trip to South Africa, enjoying safaris, wine tastings, and dramatic scenery. Steve has also explored Croatia, Copenhagen, Rome, Geneva, and Lanzarote in the Canary Islands. He recently spent nine days in Sicily with a longtime friend, and last year, he and Sven returned to the house they still own in Alexandria, VA.

In July 2025, Steve will turn 68 years old. He says, “I’d be happy to spend the rest of my days here in Spain. I truly live a charmed life. In my wildest dreams, I never would have imagined that I would be able to afford to experience the quality of life I have now in my retirement.”

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