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Four Years in Gozo, Malta: Did Our Dream Retirement Live Up to Expectations?

Four Years in Gozo, Malta: Did Our Dream Retirement Live Up to Expectations?
Gozo’s dramatic coastline and relaxed pace of life continue to exceed our retirement expectations.|©iStock/Tomasz Perkowski

Four years ago, we started a new life in an old world. We became expats in Gozo, Malta, in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea. Our confidence was high. We had done our due diligence. We made several scouting trips, each lasting four weeks or more. We found our dream apartment in Nadur, which we believed was our ideal community. We had a plan.

We’ve written many stories about our life in Malta, sharing our experiences of living in the Mediterranean. In fact, after our first year in Nadur, we wrote this article for International Living: Our Try-Out Year in Gozo, Malta.

So, how has it been, really? Has life on Gozo fulfilled our retirement dreams? Have we adjusted to a new culture? Did we miss the U.S., our friends, and our family? Have we made friends? What about the language, money, customs, and all the other day-to-day realities? Have we traveled as much as we imagined? Is Gozo our forever home?

Our Dreams For Life On Gozo & How It All Turned Out

Four years after making Gozo home, Mary and Kevin wouldn’t change a thing.
Four years after making Gozo home, Mary and Kevin wouldn’t change a thing.

Location

Expectations: We initially had no idea where Malta was. But after pulling out a map, we began to think of it as the center of the world, with Europe, Africa, and the Middle East all within easy reach on, shall we say, “cheap” flights. Think Paris for $40 round-trip or Sicily for $33.

After Four Years: Yes, Malta really is the center of the world—or at least our world. For travel writers like us, its location has exceeded our expectations. We’ve spent about half of each year traveling since our move. It’s hard to resist round-trip airfares of less than €50, no matter where they take us.

Those cheap fares really do exist. We’ve learned how to survive on ultra-budget airlines. We’ve traded our chronic overpacking habits for carry-on bags and adopted a “you really can wear that shirt more than once” attitude. Yes, the flights are cramped, but they’re usually only one to two hours long. We book aisle seats across from each other, and somehow it feels roomier.

Cost of Living

Expectations: After several scouting trips and extensive research, we estimated our cost of living would be about 40% lower than in our coastal Northern California home.

After Four Years: Our cost of living has turned out to be about 50% lower than it was in the U.S. Once again, reality exceeded our expectations. We rent a luxury apartment with sea views for €750 a month. Our utilities—including electricity, water, gas, trash, phones, and internet—total less than €200 a month. We spend about €600 a month on food.

Healthcare

Expectations: At first, we mistakenly believed that, as residents, we would qualify for free state healthcare. That turned out not to be the case.

After Four Years: Our Digital Nomad Residence Permit requires us to carry private health insurance. We’ve used the same company for four years. It costs less than Medicare did in the U.S., and it has covered 100% of our medical expenses. We’ve been extremely happy with both the service and the claims process.

We use a combination of private and state doctors, clinics, labs, and hospitals. It can take time to get an appointment with a specialist, but in an emergency, you’ll receive the care you need. The quality of care is high and continues to improve. One advantage is Malta’s large medical university, which helps support the country’s modern healthcare system.

European Lifestyle

Gozo offers Mediterranean beauty without the crowds found elsewhere in Europe.
Gozo offers Mediterranean beauty without the crowds found elsewhere in Europe.|©iStock/Starcevic

Expectations: We didn’t have many expectations beyond the café culture we’d experienced throughout Europe. In truth, we weren’t quite sure what a European lifestyle really meant.

After Four Years: Now we know. We’ve learned that stopping in the street to greet a friend is more important than arriving on time. Coffee is meant to be lingered over, wine is for sipping, and slow food isn’t a fad—it’s a way of life. It’s OK to linger over a meal. Children are free to be noisy, and that’s considered beautiful. Faith, family, the land, and the sea are protected and cherished. We’ve learned to enjoy simplicity, consume less, and appreciate more. Most of all, we’ve learned gratitude.

Food & Libations

Expectations: Our expectations were high. During our scouting trips, we found beautiful organic produce growing on Gozo, sold in local markets, and served in homes and restaurants. We sampled traditional dishes and local wines and quickly realized the food was exceptional.

After Four Years: Once again, reality exceeded our expectations. Fresh vegetables, fruit, meat, and fish are produced on Gozo and throughout the surrounding Mediterranean. They’re available from neighborhood food shops, street markets, butcher shops, fishmongers, bakeries, and mobile merchants known as hawkers. Best of all, much of the food is locally grown and remarkably fresh.

Although we cook most of our meals at home, we love eating out. Lunch is our favorite dining-out treat. Most restaurants feature locally sourced food and drink. The dining scene ranges from five-star restaurants to simple kiosks, and it’s rare to find a disappointing meal. We also appreciate the reasonable prices.

We love traditional dishes like lampuki pie, rabbit stew, grilled octopus, and fresh pasta. The bread is legendary, and pizzas topped with potatoes are surprisingly delicious. While the pastries may remind visitors of France, pastry was introduced to Malta by the Arabs in the ninth century.

We’ve also come to appreciate Sicily’s influence on the islands. On a clear day, you can see Sicily from Gozo—it’s only about 60 miles away. Whenever we visit, we’re reminded how similar the two islands are. The food, architecture, customs, and pace of life feel remarkably familiar.

Maltese wine has been another pleasant surprise. As former residents of California wine country, we had our doubts at first. But we’ve grown to love wines made from the native Girgentina grape, especially the light, crisp sparkling versions. Best of all, you can usually find an excellent bottle for around €6.

Gozo’s cafés are perfect places to linger over coffee and conversation.
Gozo’s cafés are perfect places to linger over coffee and conversation.|©iStock/VFKA

Social Life

Expectations: We weren’t especially worried about making friends. During our scouting trips, we found the locals warm and welcoming. Still, we wondered whether we’d truly be accepted after arriving from California.

After Four Years: Mary made her first friend at the bus stop on her very first morning in Gozo. We quickly discovered that friendships often begin with nothing more than a smile and a sincere “good morning.”

Four years later, our circle of friends resembles a mini United Nations. Our table at morning coffee or a late-afternoon aperitivo in the village square might include people from Malta, Gozo, the U.S., England, Switzerland, Lithuania, Ireland, Canada, Australia, France, and beyond. Together we share meals, conversations, local festivals, concerts, and day trips. Our social life is full—and always evolving.

Residency

Expectations: Our original plan was to obtain a Self-Sufficient Residence Permit. It would be valid for one year, renewable for five years, and eventually lead to permanent residency.

After Four Years: After extensive research, we decided the Self-Sufficient Permit was the best fit for us. Then, while we were already living on Gozo, we learned that the program had been temporarily suspended. Oh boy… now what?

Fortunately, we discovered Malta’s Digital Nomad Permit. We qualified and began the application process. The permit is valid for one year and can be renewed for up to three years. The paperwork during our first application seemed endless, but today almost everything is completed online, and we keep the required documents ready to upload. We’re currently waiting for approval of our latest renewal.

Completely Unexpected: We never imagined the financial requirements and costs of the Self-Sufficient Permit would increase so dramatically after the program returned. Fortunately, we still have more than a year to decide our next step.

Language

Expectations: Malta has two official languages: Maltese and English. Government business is conducted in English, and many people also speak Italian. After spending time scouting Malta and Gozo, we felt confident that language would never be a problem.

After Four Years: We’ve even begun to understand—and occasionally speak—a little of the wonderfully complex Maltese and Gozitan languages. Every so often, we hear it spoken while traveling outside Malta, and when we do, it feels a little like coming home.

Understanding Maltese isn’t just about the words. Conversations come alive through expressive hand gestures, changing tones of voice, and sometimes even full-body movements. Watch, listen, and before long, the conversation begins to make sense.

Quick Q&As

Have we adjusted to a new culture?

Yes—and we love it. The Mediterranean lifestyle suits us perfectly.

Do we miss the U.S.?

Very little. We miss a few favorite foods, like American breakfast sausage and authentic Mexican dishes.

What we don’t miss are the fear, violence, crime, and rising cost of living.

Do we miss our friends and family?

Of course. But thanks to video calls, we probably see them more often than we did when we lived in California. They visit us, and we visit them.

What about the money?

Malta uses the euro. While the dollar hasn’t been especially strong lately, it still goes much farther here than it did for us in the U.S.

Has not having a car been a problem?

Not at all. We haven’t missed driving. Public transportation is safe, efficient, clean, fully electric on Gozo, and best of all, free.

Giving up our cars in the U.S. also added about $10,000 a year to our cash flow.

Have we traveled as much as we imagined?

More than we ever imagined. For travel junkies like us, Malta is paradise.

Has life on Gozo fulfilled our retirement dreams?

Yes. A thousand times yes. We’ve learned to slow down, appreciate the little things, and enjoy each day. We’re healthy, happy, and exploring the world. We couldn’t ask for much more.

Is it our forever home?

That’s certainly the plan. But life has a way of surprising you, and we’re happy to see where the journey leads.

Conclusion

Looking back after four years, we can honestly say that moving to Gozo has exceeded every expectation we had.

Not everything has gone according to plan. Residency rules changed. We had plenty to learn about a new culture, a new language, and a different way of doing things. But those challenges have been small compared with everything we’ve gained.

We’ve found a welcoming community, formed lasting friendships, traveled more than we ever imagined, and discovered a slower, richer way of living. Most of all, we’ve found a place that truly feels like home.

When people ask whether we’d make the move again, our answer is simple.

In a heartbeat.

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