We traded city life in Chicago for fresh air, friendly neighbors, and a self-sustaining home in the Costa Rican countryside. After decades of running a successful salon and navigating life in a divided America, we were ready for something entirely different.
In the Nicoya Peninsula, one of the world’s Blue Zones, we found more than a house. We found peace, purpose, and a new way to live.
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Escaping the Noise:
Inspired by the words of James Baldwin— “If one refuses abdication, one begins again”—I knew it was time to start over. As a gay Black man, I had spent decades navigating challenges in the U.S., and I longed for a life where I could feel truly free and fulfilled. That desire set me on a search for a new home.
Around that time, I met Daryl Wells, a kindred spirit who shared my vision for a quieter, more purposeful life. His background and skills made him the ideal partner for what we dreamed of: becoming gentlemen farmers abroad. We did our research and began planning our life together. (I would later marry this wonderful man.)
A Difficult Goodbye
I came from humble beginnings on the West Side of Chicago, driven to uplift my community. I built Van Cleef Hair Studio in a former church on Chicago’s Gold Coast, offering a welcoming space for clients from all walks of life. For over 40 years, half of that with Daryl, we served students, postal workers, celebrities, and even the First Family. Michelle Obama was a loyal client for 28 years, and we were honored to be their stylists for the 2009 Inauguration.
The transition from the U.S., which meant purging a lifetime of assets, was challenging. Finding a successor for our salon took 17 years. It was deeply emotional to leave behind a sanctuary we had built to serve the undervalued gems of our community: Black women. That village of support, which included family and close friends, left a void that would be hard to fill.
Selling our condo, packing and shipping all our worldly possessions, and settling into our new life in Costa Rica was no small feat. But when we reflect on those days and the life we’ve built since, the difference is striking. We’re each 30 pounds lighter—thanks to lower stress, daily movement through walking and gardening, and the simple joy of drying laundry under the sun in the clean air of Caimitalito.
Why We Chose Costa Rica
Next, the task of choosing a new land had a long “must have” list: a well-functioning healthcare system, along with affordable living, minimal racism and homophobia, a beneficial environmental and political climate, and an inviting temperament of its people.
Costa Rica met everything on our checklist. Our goal was to live amongst the natives in a countryside community with all the essentials nearby. In 2005, we acquired an idyllic 5.5-acre parcel of land accentuated by a 360-degree vista of green hills void of any human habitation. The “Green Acres” theme song happily makes its presence known with recurring loops when our land comes to mind. All of this played to the strengths of my husband, Daryl. Being raised on a small family farm in an Amish/Mennonite community provided him with a knowledge of gardening, construction, and maintenance of a working farm.
Building Our Home - Casa Las Nubes
We designed our home and guesthouse rental to suit our needs and aesthetics, providing an idyllic setting for guests to enjoy the beauty of this country. The construction costs for our home were approximately $450,000 US, including the leveling of the hilltop and creation of a driveway leading down to the paved highway. The contractor, like most worldwide, had deceptive practices, but the result was a home we love. We continue to find ways to improve.
The effects of climate change have dramatically increased electrical costs in our area. We realized our goal of installing solar energy in 2024, and our bills dropped from $800-$1000 per month to $200- $300 (it’s a large property and we pump a lot of water from our well to the top of the hill to supply our large pool, irrigate the gardens and for personal needs). So, the “Doomsday Prepper” in us has played in well with our earth-centered philosophy. Controlling our food, water, and energy sources has always been paramount to our green lifestyle.
The 5.5-acre property with an existing 1100 sq ft casita, occupied by our caretaker, cost $180,000 to purchase and had an annual property tax of only $69 US, for the first five years until we completed construction of our home. We designed our 6,000 sq ft Frank Lloyd Wright-inspired home in a traditional African Compound style, featuring multiple structures that allow air and light to flow freely.
Based on its size and value, we pay a temporary Luxury Home Tax of $1,700 US annually, and the local taxes have also increased by $1,700 US. By comparison, our 1400 sq ft Streeterville condo on the lakefront in Chicago was triple that amount.
Life in the Nicoya Peninsula
Apart from the airport in Liberia, which is only 1 hour 20 minutes away, all other amenities were within 20 minutes, depending on the slow-moving traffic caused by cargo trucks or Brahman and White Zebu cattle crossing the road. Nicoya, named after a chief of the Chorotega tribe, to our surprise, was a Blue Zone where people consistently live to be happy and healthy centenarians. Within its boundaries are a blend of old and new. The temple of San Blas, the oldest vestige of colonialism in Guanacaste province dates from 1522 and is a quaint structure in a lush green foliage-filled town square. It is a place of bustling community celebrations, activities, open markets, and benches for quiet enjoyment for all.
Our location is within walking distance of the lovely lady who helps keep our home and guest rental immaculate. We have become friends with the mayor, our doctor, and their families, all living within 10 minutes, so there is a balance of harmony with different socio-economic groups in our region. Crime is low and the costs of goods and services are affordable.
Mi esposo, “Dario”, as he is called here, has a much better command of the language, having had “mucho” years of French, some Italian, and seven years amongst a Puerto Rican culture in Chicago, which comes in handy. I have given myself grace, realizing that learning a new language is a slow and gradual process at times seemingly insurmountable, but patience from me and those with whom I come into contact pushes me forward with enthusiasm.
Daily Life and Amenities
Our local roadside “Soda”, a local eatery, a 10-minute walk from our front gate, can provide you with a smile, great service, and a delicious “Casado”, a typical Tico dish (Tico is the name Costa Ricans refer to themselves). Casado, which means ‘married,’ is a hearty lunch dish traditionally served to workers, a symbol of balance and care from home. Other restaurants, markets, and shopping are available close by in Nicoya and Playa Samara.
Healthcare costs are a major expense for seniors in the US. Though we applied early for our Temporary Residency, which gives us access to their very affordable system, it took 3.5 years to acquire. Once we got through the tedious process, our insurance costs were reduced by $1100 per month and are now an unbelievable combined cost of $56 per month, including most prescription drugs.
Doctors call us to check on our well-being and even make house calls (at no additional cost). Prior to becoming eligible for their healthcare system, they once apologized for asking us to pay full price for an emergency visit, which was only $76 US! On a later visit, we were told not to worry about paying because there was no cashier present at 3 a.m.
A Community and a New Routine
Our village of friends, Canadians, Americans, and Ticos, is as varied as the flora on our property. Most mornings, I rise with the birds, joining Daryl in the garden or helping him prepare a meal with organic ingredients from our land
Like the caged bird in Maya Angelou’s poem, I sing with joy for the freedom we’ve found here. Nina Simone’s words echo through my mind:
“Birds flying high, you know how I feel
Sun up in the sky, you know how I feel
Breeze drifting on by, you know how I feel
It’s a new dawn, it’s a new day
It’s a new life for me, and I’m feeling good.”
Together, we’ve found our peace. Life is short—do your due diligence, and find your own.
¡Pura Vida!
Get Your Free Costa Rica Report Here
Get Your Free Costa Rica Report Here
Learn more about Costa Rica and other countries in our daily postcard e-letter. Simply enter your email address below and we’ll send you a FREE REPORT - Explore the Old World in Laidback Costa Rica.
By submitting your email address, you will receive a free subscription to IL Postcards and special offers from International Living and our affiliates. You can unsubscribe at any time, and we encourage you to read more about our Privacy Policy.