Rain, Wildlife, and Sweet Surprises: Week Two of Test Driving Life in Costa Rica

Week two of our Costa Rican adventure brought new adventures, surprising challenges, and moments of reflection as we explored more of this beautiful country. Tropical Depression Sara changed some of our plans, but it also gave us deeper insights into Costa Rican life and culture.

At the beginning of the week, we welcomed two of our good friends, Gahan and Emma, who flew in to join us. Despite the weather, we wanted to make sure their first visit to Costa Rica was special. We started with a trip to the Rescate Wildlife Rescue Center in La Garita, a sanctuary dedicated to rehabilitating injured animals and preparing them for release back into the wild.

From there, we set off on what was supposed to be a three-day trip to Manuel Antonio, one of Costa Rica’s most famous national parks. Known for its white-sand beaches and abundant wildlife, it was high on our list of must-see destinations. However, Tropical Depression Sara had other plans. Heavy rains soaked the region, making roads slippery and prompting closures at several national parks, including Manuel Antonio. Despite the disruptions, we were determined to make the most of our time.

Rain, Wildlife, and Nighttime Adventures

Embracing the elements on Playa Espadilla, where rain couldn’t dampen the beauty of Costa Rica’s coastline.|©Amy and Jim Oliver

Despite the weather, we didn’t let the rain dampen our fun. On our first day, we strolled along Playa Espadilla, dodging raindrops on this beautiful beach just outside Manuel Antonio National Park.

The real highlight of the day, however, was a quintessential Costa Rican adventure—a night hike at Rainmaker Park, about an hour’s drive from Quepos. If you’ve never explored a rainforest at night, it’s an unforgettable experience. The darkness transforms the forest into a completely different world, with your flashlight illuminating only small glimpses of the wildlife around you. Our guide helped us spot and photograph at least eight different species of frogs, along with some spiders and even a snake. My favorite part was the symphony of unseen frogs, their calls blending into a mesmerizing chorus that filled the night air. Another unforgettable moment was crossing a swaying suspension bridge over a roaring river, ending just a few feet from the thunderous spray of a waterfall.

Wildlife encounters continued back at our hotel, Costa Verde. White-faced capuchin monkeys entertained us with their antics as they boldly traversed our balcony. Although they weren’t threatening, three monkeys appeared the moment they smelled our pizza, chasing us off the balcony when we refused to share our lunch. My husband’s favorite memory was waking up to five scarlet macaws soaring through the trees, their vibrant feathers glowing against the greenery. Nearby, a toucan perched curiously, watching us from just a few feet away.

A cheeky capuchin monkey made a bold visit to our balcony, proving you’re never alone in Costa Rica’s wildlife haven.|©Amy and Jim Oliver

Sweet Discoveries Amid the Rain

One of our favorite Costa Rican experiences this week was a visit to a cacao and coffee farm. We started with a fascinating lesson on how cacao is grown and transformed into the chocolate we all know and love. Sampling cacao nibs and hot chocolate was just the beginning—creating our own chocolate mixtures with spices like ginger, turmeric, cinnamon, or salt, paired with vanilla or orange extract, and drizzling them over pineapple and bananas was a true treat. We also got a behind-the-scenes look at coffee production, learning about the intricate process of drying and roasting beans. To top it all off, we had the chance to press fresh sugarcane juice, which added a sweet and refreshing note to the experience.

On our final day, our plans for a guided hike in Manuel Antonio National Park had to change when the tour company postponed due to weather concerns. Initially, it was disappointing, but we soon learned the extent of the storm’s impact—nine national parks on the Pacific coast were closed, flights at the Guanacaste airport were canceled, and a state of emergency was declared across much of the country. It became clear that this wasn’t just typical rainy season weather. Though we were sad to leave the area without seeing the park, we felt grateful to make it safely back to Atenas before mudslides temporarily closed parts of the highway. We were also relieved to send our guests off from the San José airport on schedule the next day.

Exploring the journey from cacao pod to chocolate at a Costa Rican cacao farm—sweet discoveries abound!|©Amy and Jim Oliver

Adapting to Daily Life

Costa Rican life has its quirks, and this week gave us plenty of opportunities to learn about them. Showers in most Tico homes rely on on-demand electric water heaters, which took some getting used to. Managing the balance of water pressure and temperature became a small but important skill.

Tile floors and open shelving are standard in Costa Rican homes, designed to prevent mold and mildew in the humid climate. At first, we found these features unusual, but we quickly came to appreciate their practicality.

In Costa Rica, a soda isn’t a soft drink like it is in the U.S. Instead, sodas are open-air, mom-and-pop-style diners that serve some of the best meals you’ll find in the country. Their specialty is “casados,” a traditional Costa Rican dish that combines your choice of protein—usually grilled or stewed chicken, pork, beef, or fish—with white rice, black beans, a lightly dressed green salad, fried plantains, and a succotash-like side made with chayote, a vegetable similar to squash.

Savoring the flavors of Costa Rica with a traditional casado—a hearty and authentic local meal.|©Amy and Jim Oliver

Eating casados isn’t just delicious and authentically Costa Rican; it’s also budget-friendly, with prices averaging $6 to $12, sometimes even less. Luckily, we enjoy rice and beans, but it does make us wonder whether eating casados every day would remain sustainable if we retired here full-time.

Of course, American-style food like hamburgers, pizza, and French fries is also widely available for those who want it, but we don’t eat those often at home anyway. Instead, we’ve brought along some international spices—like curry powder and chana masala—to add variety to the meals we cook ourselves.

We’ve also discovered some delicious local drinks, like soursop juice made from the healthy guanabana fruit, and agua de zapote, a refreshing mix of sugarcane juice and lemons. These have been delightful additions to our exploration of Costa Rican flavors.

Practical Tips for Expats

Living in Costa Rica has taught us many valuable lessons, especially during the rainy season. Here are some of the key takeaways from our experiences so far:

1. Shop at the Local Feria: Farmer’s markets are the heart of Costa Rican communities and the best places to buy fresh produce. This week, we visited the feria in Grecia, where vendors sold everything from fruits and vegetables to honey, cheeses, and empanadas. The highlight for us was a $2 bag of lychees, a sweet and refreshing treat. However, not every local specialty won us over—pejibaye, a starchy vegetable beloved by Ticos, wasn’t to our taste.

2. Be Prepared for Rain: The rainy season requires both physical and mental preparation. Bring sturdy rain gear and waterproof shoes, and embrace the slower pace that the season demands. Accepting the rain as part of Costa Rica’s charm is key to enjoying life here during this time of year.

3. Watch Portion Sizes: Costa Rican restaurants often serve meals large enough to feed two people. Sharing portions not only helps avoid food waste but also prevents your refrigerator from being overrun with leftovers. For example, when I ordered chifrijo—a layered dish of rice, beans, and fried pork rinds—the cook piled on so much food that we easily had enough for two meals.

4. Learn to Adapt: Whether it’s adjusting to on-demand water heaters or navigating muddy roads, flexibility is an essential skill for anyone considering a move to Costa Rica. The ability to roll with unexpected challenges will make your experience more enjoyable and rewarding.

Adopting the Pura Vida Mindset

Despite the challenges posed by Tropical Depression Sara, we’ve found ourselves embracing the Pura Vida mindset more and more. This Costa Rican philosophy of living emphasizes gratitude, resilience, and finding joy in the present moment.

When rain threatened to derail our plans, locals offered advice with a smile. “Why not head to the Caribbean coast? It’s sunny there,” one Tico suggested. Their optimism and practical approach reminded us to focus on what we could enjoy instead of what we couldn’t.

We also felt a deep sense of gratitude that the storm was only an inconvenience for us, while others faced far more serious challenges. Inspired by the resilience of the Ticos, we’ve decided to contribute to local flood relief efforts to support those who were affected by the storm.

Looking Ahead

Enjoying a bright moment as the rainy season begins to give way to clearer skies in Costa Rica.|©Amy and Jim Oliver

By the end of week two, the sun finally broke through, and our mood lifted considerably! On the first morning of sunshine, we went for a walk, relaxed by the pool, and read our books outdoors, savoring every moment. The air already feels lighter, and we’re hopeful that the locals are right—that the weather is transitioning from the rainy season to the dry season.

This week’s rainy weather taught us an important lesson: spending an entire rainy season in Costa Rica would be essential before deciding whether living here full-time in retirement is a good fit for us. In a country where outdoor activities and sunshine are such a big part of daily life, the persistent rain made us feel cooped up, and adjusting to that would take time and effort.

Looking ahead to week three of our month-long adventure, I plan to visit with a group of expat women who meet at a local restaurant on Tuesdays to gather their insights on expat living. We’ll also interview a few others who have retired in the Atenas area to hear their advice and perspectives on making a life here.

But the best part of week three is that we’ll celebrate the end of two weeks of rain with a cross-country drive to Cahuita on Costa Rica’s southeastern coast. There, we’ll soak up warm sunshine on its Caribbean beaches. Join us next week as we continue to test-drive our retirement overseas in Costa Rica!

Hasta luego, amigos!