Early one morning in July, I decided to visit the charming seaside town of Bandol in southeastern France. A quick 20-minute drive from our home near Toulon, Bandol is one of the many gems of the French Riviera, also known as the Côte d’Azur. The town boasts a sandy, palm-tree-lined beach right in the center, next to a promenade with cozy cafés, French bistros, and lively seafood restaurants. In short, it’s some of the best Mediterranean living in our area.
I had planned a morning of lying under an umbrella, listening to the waves, followed by a visit to Bandol’s colorful farmer’s market. Maybe I’d splurge on a chilled seafood platter or tuck into a bistro with views of the marina. Unfortunately, things didn’t go as imagined.
Arriving at the Casino parking lot around 9:15 a.m., I inched forward, grabbed a ticket from the machine, and managed to secure one of the last parking spots. A quick glance around told me I had underestimated Bandol’s summer popularity. Not only was the parking lot packed, but so was the beach. After 10 minutes of searching for a spot to lay my towel, I gave up and returned home to the comfort of cool AC and a Netflix documentary.
This isn’t uncommon in France—the most visited country in the world. With around 77 million visitors yearly and a population of 86 million, it can get crowded. Iconic spots like the Eiffel Tower, the Louvre, and Mont Saint Michel draw tourists from all over. But beyond the popular attractions, there are quiet corners of France just as beautiful—and far less crowded.
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Green Provence Instead of the French Riviera
An hour inland from Bandol, you’ll find the romantic region of Provence Verte, or Green Provence. This nature lover’s paradise is dotted with whimsical French villages and local geographical wonders.
Here, you can visit the Gorges du Verdon, France’s largest river canyon. While the highest summit reaches an impressive 10,010 feet, the real draw is the ethereal turquoise blues of the river below. Surrounded by pine and oak trees, wild thyme and rosemary, and the occasional wandering goat, a visit to the Gorges is bucket-list-worthy.
Enjoy a picnic by the beaches of Sainte Croix Lake or try out water sports like boating, kayaking, or windsurfing. Green Provence also offers 250 miles of hiking trails for all abilities. A must-see is Cotignac, a village newly listed among France’s “Plus Beaux Villages.” Every Tuesday, Cotignac’s farmer’s market on Cours Gambetta brims with local produce, lavender, antiques, and more—a true feast for the senses. Here, you’ll find the real south of France—authentic and true to itself. Local artisans and chefs pride themselves on their savoir-faire and knowledge of Provençal products, which is evident in the many gourmet establishments around town. For lunch, try Picotte Provence, which offers a three-course gourmet lunch for €34 ($37).
For those seeking an upscale dining experience, Jardin Secret is an excellent lunch or dinner option. While a little heavier on the pocketbook, with celebrity chef Benoit Witz at the helm, it will be a meal you won’t soon forget. On the premises of the Lou Calen luxury hotel complex, the establishment also offers a budget-friendly dining option—the newly opened Bistrot de Lou Calen. Their lunchtime menu includes a main dish, dessert, and coffee for €32 ($35).
Besides the wonderful dining opportunities, including a truffle-themed restaurant in nearby Lorgues (Chez Bruno), the region boasts an impressive selection of wineries. To sample some of the best Provençal rosés in the south, opt for a wine-tasting at our favorite domaine—Chateau Sainte Croix in Carcès.
Beaujolais Instead of Bordeaux
During a trip to the Grand Est, we stumbled upon the Beaujolais wine region, conveniently located between Lyon and Dijon. We booked a night in the village of Fleurie to break up the drive, but we ended up discovering a captivating destination that has become a favorite escape.
The Beaujolais vineyards cover an area of 22,000 hectares at the base of the Massif Central Mountain range—west of the Saône River. The capital of the region, Villefranche-sur-Saône, is about a 40-minute drive north of Lyon. While Villefranche has some worthwhile sites—notably the gothic Notre-Dame-des-Marais church with its striking façade and 260-foot-high spire—the real draw of Beaujolais is the rolling wine-country vistas that seem to extend as far as the eye can see.
Forget Bordeaux and Burgundy—post up in one of the area’s villages like Ternand, Bagnols, Charnay, or Oingt (another of France’s Plus Beaux Villages) and experience all the magic of French wine country… minus the crowds. Known as the “Little Tuscany” of the region, there are 39 Pierres Dorées (golden stone) villages, which can be visited on a self-guided tour. On the Beaujolais Wine Route website, you can plan your tour of the villages and vineyards and read about the local vintages.
Beaujolais is known for its signature red wines, made 97% from the Gamay grape variety. Every year, on the third Thursday in November, all of France celebrates Beaujolais Nouveau Day—the national “launch party” of that year’s vintage. The official tourism site Destination Beaujolais has information on everything from cooking classes to ateliers (workshops) with winemakers and tours on horseback through the vines.
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Dijon Instead of Lyon
A few summers ago, we decided to escape the August crowds of the Riviera and head to Dijon, the capital of Burgundy. Our French friends thought we’d lost our minds. “Dijon... vraiment?” Dijon… really? The land of hearty stews, pungent mustards, and rich red wines is hardly what most French folks would consider an ideal summer getaway. Luckily for us, we found it quite perfect.
While Lyon is a stunning, pint-sized version of Paris and a French gastronomic hotspot, Dijon offers a quieter, more accessible alternative. The food scene is top-notch, and the historic center is a delight to explore. For a great deal, head to Brasserie La Bourgogne, where a three-course lunch costs only €22.90 ($25). Snails, Burgundy beef, and sponge cake with blackcurrant emulsion are among the local specialties.
Other centrally-located restaurants to try include Le Ptit Bouchon Dijonnais and L’Evidence.
Next, you’ll want to take in the beauty of Dijon’s easily walkable center. Known affectionately as the “city of 100 bells”—due to the large number of churches within its limits—this historic capital of the Dukes of Burgundy was one of the first sites in France to achieve protected status for its monuments. Many of the principal structures date to the Middle Ages, but several Haussmannian-style buildings from the 19th century add to the charming mix of its pedestrian passageways. Impressive sites to visit include the 18th-century “French-Gothic” Notre Dame Church and the sumptuous Ducal Palace (from the 14th and 15th centuries), which houses Dijon’s Beaux-Arts (Fine Arts) Museum.
The Dijon City Pass allows you access to more than 30 sites and monuments, including gastronomic sites like the Cité Internationale de la Gastronomie et du Vin. A massive commercial space within the city, the Cité seeks to promote the traditional French meal and the “climates” of the Burgundian vineyards—both of which have obtained UNESCO World Heritage status. The site houses restaurants, gourmet shops, a French food museum, and a “wine library,” La Cave de la Cité that proposes around 3,000 wine references for Burgundian, French, and international wines—250 of which are available by the glass.
Nancy Instead of Paris
For all the charm of Paris, minus the crowds and metro stations, consider a 2.5-hour TGV ride to Nancy. Nestled in the Grand Est region, which includes Lorraine and Alsace, Nancy is a hidden gem that offers Versailles-level beauty.
The centerpiece of the city is Place Stanislas, a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the most beautiful squares in the world. Commissioned by the then-king of Poland and the last Duke of Lorraine, Stanislas Leszczynski, a team of artists was called upon to import the Baroque style from Central Europe to create Stanislas Square. Inaugurated in 1755, the result is nothing short of remarkable. Surrounded by Rococo fountains and a series of impressive structures mixing baroque and classical elements—including the Hôtel de Ville (town hall), the Nancy Opera House, and the Beaux-Arts Museum—the visual effect is quite dazzling.
Capped off by an Arc de Triomphe honoring Louis XV, Place Stanislas is not only an architectural masterpiece but also the central meeting place for Nancéiens, residents of Nancy. Enclosed by six towering wrought iron gates adorned with gold filigree, cafés, restaurants, and diverse eateries line the square. Watch the city’s chic residents skirt across the place from Café du Commerce or Grand Café Foy. In the summer, take in the breathtaking light-and-sound show projected onto the Hôtel de Ville, and in the winter, grab a vin chaud (hot wine) and a giant pretzel from one of the stands at the Saint Nicolas Christmas market—French holiday ambiance at its very best.
You’ll find both pricey boutiques like Montblanc and gourmet food shops like Schmitt Chocolatier along the pedestrian-only side streets leading toward one of Nancy’s other star attractions—the Parc de la Pépinière. The city’s “central park,” la Pépinière, extends over 21 hectares with walking trails, a rose garden, cafés and restaurants, and multiple picnic spots.
Stop in at the Nancy Tourist Office, located on Place Stanislas, to inquire about the Nancy City Pass for access to museums, guided tours, and use of the STAN (bus et tramway) public transport system.
Conclusion
France is much more than its famous landmarks and bustling cities. By exploring quieter destinations like Green Provence, Beaujolais, Dijon, and Nancy, you’ll discover authentic French culture and stunning landscapes without the crowds. With a bit of thoughtful planning, you can enjoy all the beauty and gourmet delights of France in peace.
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Learn more about France and other countries in our daily postcard e-letter. Simply enter your email address below and we’ll send you a FREE REPORT: A Taste of France: All the Ingredients for the Good Life.
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