This California Expat Found Her Rhythm in Lucca, Italy

Lucca Italy
Lucca: the Tuscan city that stole Lucia’s heart at first sight.|©iStock/EnolaBrain

"I learned how to work in the US, but I learned how to live in Italy," says Lucia Comnes, an American from the West Coast who has been living in Italy for the past 10 years.

Growing up in San Francisco, Lucia heard many Californians speak highly of Italy, saying it was their favorite place they had ever traveled to. Although she, too, wanted to visit Italy, she was leery that the country wouldn't live up to the hype she had been hearing for years.

Then, in 2008, came a fateful event. A friend decided to get married in the Tuscan city of Lucca, and Lucia was invited to the wedding.

"I remember walking through the streets of Lucca with tears rolling down my face. It was just so overwhelmingly beautiful," she says. And so began her love affair with Italy—a deep love that continues to this day.

She returned to the US from the wedding and continued living her life in San Fran, managing a dance and fitness company and working in software. She still dreamt of Italy, and as luck would have it, she fell in love with an Italian man who was living in Italy.

Rather than trying to manage love across the miles, Lucia decided to move to a small town in Italy in 2014 to be with her partner, and soon they were married. She applied for citizenship as a spouse of an Italian, but unfortunately, after five years, her marriage—and her citizenship application—were derailed.

Not interested in returning to the States, Lucia was able to get a work visa, which led to a long-term visa and residency, and she stayed in the country. She has been living in different areas of Italy ever since.

She lived in chaotic, cultural, and powerful Rome; spent a few years on the Ligurian coast in a couple of seaside villages; and stayed in Milan for a spell.

She's currently living in Lucca, "the gem of Tuscany" and the first Italian city she visited with that fateful 2008 wedding. She absolutely adores this ancient walled city full of culture, cafes, gelato, and history.

Lucia traded U.S. hustle for Italian piazzas, pasta, and peace.
Lucia traded U.S. hustle for Italian piazzas, pasta, and peace.|©Lucia Comnes

Comparing her life in Italy to her early years in San Francisco and in Nashville, where she now spends part of each year making music, Lucia says, "Each place has its perks and problems. The things I love in Italy are usually the very same things I miss in the US, such as time to relax, cooking a meal with fresh and flavorful ingredients from the local market, and the beauty of simply walking down the street."

In the US, work is the centerpiece of life. "You always have to be building something—so much movement, productivity, purpose", she says.

In Italy, it's the opposite. "If you try to build or change something… good luck," she laughs.

It took Lucia some time to let go and accept the Italian way of slow living, as she had always believed her value was measured by what she produced and what she did for a living. In Italy, it's completely different.

"My value in Italy is who I am, how I feel, how I manage relationships," she explains. She definitely feels her entire being relax and breathe when returning from the US to her beloved Italy.

Because Lucia works in Italy (she is not working remotely or funding her stay with US dollars), she is earning Italian wages—a very different scenario to many Americans living abroad.

"People in Italy are paid a lot less than their American counterparts," she tells me. "A bank manager, for instance, may take home €1,500 [about $1,700] a month after taxes. A doctor might make €4,000 [roughly $4,500] a month after taxes."

However, Lucia still finds the cost of living in Italy to be less than in the States.

Groceries are extremely reasonable and prices for fresh fruits and vegetables at the local market are wonderfully affordable. A big bag bursting with shiny melanzana (eggplant), delicious red ripe tomatoes on the vine, decadently fresh figs, juicy Italian strawberries, and salad fixings can cost approximately $17. Sitting under the Tuscan sun at a local cafe enjoying a cappuccino might set you back $2 or $3, and a heaping plate of freshly-made pappardelle al cinghiale (pasta with wild boar ragu) accompanied by a generous pour of local Tuscan wine can be yours for less than $28.

The biggest surprise for Lucia was the cost of healthcare. Public healthcare is included for taxpayer citizens at no additional cost, while residents of Italy pay a yearly fee to be included in the public system. You can pick up private healthcare insurance to supplement your care in the public system and you're then able to see any doctor you'd like, and pay between $85 and $170 for an office visit.

Lucia had her achilles tendon rupture a few years ago and was treated at the public hospital. Her out-of-pocket cost? Zero. Nothing. Everything was covered!

Lucia fell in love with Italy when she came for a wedding in 2008.
Lucia fell in love with Italy when she came for a wedding in 2008.|©Lucia Comnes

Accommodation prices, while reasonable compared to US cities like San Francisco, are on the rise. For example, a few years ago she rented a gorgeous two-bed, two-bath apartment in the historic city center of Lucca for roughly $1,150 a month. Current prices are now in the $1,800 to $2,300 range for the same. She's currently sharing a place with another expat in a lovely two-bedroom apartment.

While prices in the city have risen, there are still lower-priced offerings outside the city in the surrounding small towns, which range from $570 to $1,150 per month.

If you're dreaming of buying a home in Lucca city center, expect to pay around $285,700 for a two-bedroom apartment. Naturally, homes outside of the centro can be found for less, some in the $170,000 range, depending on the renovations needed.

One of the best perks for Lucia of living in Italy is having the time to pursue her passion—making music. An accomplished singer and incredibly talented fiddle player, she loves touring, doing concerts, and recording albums.

Her proudest moment was being interviewed by RAI (Italy's national TV station) and being confident and fluent enough in Italian to ace the interview!

Lucia shares her story—and her music—on Italy’s national TV station, RAI.
Lucia shares her story—and her music—on Italy’s national TV station, RAI.|©Lucia Comnes

She also loves to host gatherings with friends for artisanal beers, local wines, and delicious food. She delights in the presence of joy and laughter as folks come together here in Italy in the spirit of sharing—in this culture, it is so important to spend time with friends and family.

Lucia's advice to anyone considering moving abroad? "We all need our comfort zones, but it's important to continue to learn, observe, and develop personally. By leaving your home culture, you can show up in Italy as a child, because here, you're brand new! Your identity can grow and expand as a human… and that's an incredible opportunity!"

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